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I hope this is the correct place to post this. I have a used rear axle that has what is called a companion flange attached. My dilemma is the present axle and driveshaft do not have flanges. Could I add a mating flange to the present drive shaft? Is is possible the junkyard gave me the wrong year/axle?)(see photo,not mine, but I found this on line and was good example of how the replacement axle looks.
You could swap the flange on the drive line, or better yet swap the flange on the pinion for a yoke that fits your u joints . That way it would be easier to get the proper parts the next time you have to work on it.
Ponyracer - The tag reads: Top line, S837B, Second line, 3L55 88 2E28. I know its a Limited slip 3.55 ratio, but not sure of the meaning of the other numbers, letters.
Hooker Bob - My biggest fear of removing the flange from the drive line is all the manuals warn of potential damage to the pinion seal if it is not stablilized when removing the flange. Plus, it calls for a puller to remove the flange, which I don't have and may have to buy. I am thinking of opting for installing a like flange on the shaft, but again, will it match up or will I end up having to swap drive shafts to make this work. Yike.This simple rearend swap is turning into a nightmare.
The flange not only requires a puller to remove but it also requires a tool to replace it. Pulling it on with the pinion nut might damage the pinion threads or the nut. I would look into the matching flange for the drive shaft.
well it is definitely an 8.8 and a 355 traction lock
the 3L55 88 shows me that.
The F150's have a driveshaft with that companion flange. I'd look for it at a junk yard. you could look for a driveshaft from an F150 with the same wheel base length as yours maybe?
The last 2 replies have convinced me to locate a drive shaft with the same flange. Perhaps the folks that sold me this have the matching shaft. You would think that they would have mentioned this to me when I picked it up. Everywhere I check I find that removing the flange can be risky so since Im not feeling lucky, I'll go with the new shaft. Thanks to everyone that chimed in.
My apologies for the multiple posts on this subject but one last question. Assuming I locate the shaft that matches up to this rearend assy. what should I expect to pay for a used rear shaft?
I would think that it should be under $100 and guaranteed to be straight and maybe even ballanced and maybe not. Make sure there are not any major dents, damage to the weights that are attached to the shaft and get the attaching bolts(they should be 8-point 1/2" or 13mm bolts). Also, check the slip yoke for nicks and major rust and pits inside and out and campare it to your transmission output shaft and housing. I would expect to replace the u-joints at my cost and make sure to index the driveshaft by marking it so as to reassemble it the same way it was disassembled. If after installing this drive shaft you have a vibration, start by removing the bolts and turning the driveshaft 180 degrees and road test to see if it is gone or better. if still there you may have to get the driveshaft re-ballanced.
I received an email today ( have been travelling). They say they need more information to help them find the correct shaft. I gave them the year, make, model, wheel base, type tranny, and they know the rear I am installing as I purchased it from them. What more info do they need? I will find out tomorrow I guess. Thanks for the info by the way.
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