302 options
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 347
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From: charlotte, nc
302 options
I pulled the 302 out of my F100. A bad intake leak at the rear and a second at the distributor O-ring. 113,000 miles.
I tore it down to basically the short block. head gaskets looked good. Most exhaust valves where white, which I'm finding out meant they were lean. plastic cam gear teeth in the oil pan. pulled two main bearing caps. One has no wear, the second has 1 tiny spot of wear. The oil pan did smell of gas, a stuck carb float I believe, might have ran a couple of hundred miles in this condition. No taper on bores, but a carbon ridge. Carbon deposits on piston tops, same with combustion chambers. Everything seems to look decent, just filthy from carbon, oil, and the lean condition.
Like most people, the less $ spent, the better. Not looking for a drag racer, just something dependable.
What are my options. I know there is the take it somewhere and get it rebuilt. Also, the autozone short block option. Anything else I'm not aware of?
I tore it down to basically the short block. head gaskets looked good. Most exhaust valves where white, which I'm finding out meant they were lean. plastic cam gear teeth in the oil pan. pulled two main bearing caps. One has no wear, the second has 1 tiny spot of wear. The oil pan did smell of gas, a stuck carb float I believe, might have ran a couple of hundred miles in this condition. No taper on bores, but a carbon ridge. Carbon deposits on piston tops, same with combustion chambers. Everything seems to look decent, just filthy from carbon, oil, and the lean condition.
Like most people, the less $ spent, the better. Not looking for a drag racer, just something dependable.
What are my options. I know there is the take it somewhere and get it rebuilt. Also, the autozone short block option. Anything else I'm not aware of?
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Originally Posted by dotcentral
I pulled the 302 out of my F100. A bad intake leak at the rear and a second at the distributor O-ring. 113,000 miles.
I tore it down to basically the short block. head gaskets looked good. Most exhaust valves where white, which I'm finding out meant they were lean. plastic cam gear teeth in the oil pan. pulled two main bearing caps. One has no wear, the second has 1 tiny spot of wear. The oil pan did smell of gas, a stuck carb float I believe, might have ran a couple of hundred miles in this condition. No taper on bores, but a carbon ridge. Carbon deposits on piston tops, same with combustion chambers. Everything seems to look decent, just filthy from carbon, oil, and the lean condition.
Like most people, the less $ spent, the better. Not looking for a drag racer, just something dependable.
What are my options. I know there is the take it somewhere and get it rebuilt. Also, the autozone short block option. Anything else I'm not aware of?
I tore it down to basically the short block. head gaskets looked good. Most exhaust valves where white, which I'm finding out meant they were lean. plastic cam gear teeth in the oil pan. pulled two main bearing caps. One has no wear, the second has 1 tiny spot of wear. The oil pan did smell of gas, a stuck carb float I believe, might have ran a couple of hundred miles in this condition. No taper on bores, but a carbon ridge. Carbon deposits on piston tops, same with combustion chambers. Everything seems to look decent, just filthy from carbon, oil, and the lean condition.
Like most people, the less $ spent, the better. Not looking for a drag racer, just something dependable.
What are my options. I know there is the take it somewhere and get it rebuilt. Also, the autozone short block option. Anything else I'm not aware of?
If you just want to rebuild,without spending a fortune, look into a reman short or long block. For what some sell for, you'll never get it done locally for near that price. Just go behind and check the torque values before assembling the motor. I bought a short block done by City Motor Supply in Dallas TX for $340 two years ago. Only thing I did to it was change the rod bolts to ARP's, swap the cam,and a double roller timing set, and install a HV oil pump. With a set of ported E7 heads, and a 4bbl intake and carb, I wailed on it daily for two years, then swapped the heads and intake to Canfields and a Vic Jr with a 650 carb and subjected it to daily 7500 rpm freeway blasts for three more months till it cracked a cylinder wall at 7500 rpms. 
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 347
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From: charlotte, nc
It can be both, just not at the same time. The carb troubles just started in the last few months, part of the reason I pulled it. Along with the oil leaks, wanting to paint the firewall.
Do you have a phone number or a web site for this place in Texas? Any type of warranty on it? A short block at that price might work.
Do you have a phone number or a web site for this place in Texas? Any type of warranty on it? A short block at that price might work.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
I used to have their site in my favorite list. Just do a search for it. As for the white valves, just about all the motors I've pulled apart in the last few years all had some or all the exhaust valves white, I think it's got more to do with the additives in the gas and their operating temperature than indicating a lean condition.
