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I have an 1987 F-150 302, and my question is when i slow up like coming to a stop sign my pickup kinda of hops. Im not sure what it is. Ive been told its the rotors but I dont know. If it is the rotors how hard is it to replace them.
Well first off is your truck 2wd or 4wd? I know this might sound strange but when I did my pads on mine it would shake too went to the bendix pads no shake no brake dust, no squeaks.
If it pulses back through the brake pedal or kinda shimmy's when you apply brakes, it may be your rotors. If it is, before you replace them, have them turned. That usually stops the problem as long as they are within spec to be turned. Otherwise, it's not difficult to replace the rotors, just time consuming with a press or big hammer.
I, just today, removed my left 4WD hub assembly with the intent to replace it due to the same type problem as you are having. I previously took the truck to Firestone and they did a $16.99 inspection telling me my pads were fine, but my rotors were warped. 4WD hub assemblies on Manual locking hubs aren't "that" bad to work with. If they are auto locking, you just about need to take them to an expert because there are a ton of little parts and springs and clips. I have an 88 F250 and if your hub assemblies are like mine, they are hard to find even through parts stores (and pricey). Problem is, the rotor is pressed into the hub, so you either pay for machining the two together, or pay for the entire assembly. The entire assembly can be cheaper when all is said and done.
I guess what I am trying to say is, if you aren't experienced at taking apart hubs, find someone who is and pay them to do the job right...
It actually covers doing ball joints on a Bronco, but the front axle is the same and you have to take the rotors off to do balljoints. So it comes in handy for doing brakes as well.
If you have auto hubs, be careful, work on a clean surface, and put it back together exactly as they came apart. Or, consider it an excellent time to upgrade to manual hubs, which are cheaper and far more reliable.
You don't have have a press to replace the rotors. You can do it with a hammer and a punch. If they just need to be turned, the rotors come off, you get the machined at a shop, and you put them back on using nothing more than some ordinary tools. If you need new rotors, you can either buy a complete assembly, or install the new rotors with a hammer and punch.
Brakes seem intimidating, but they're not hard to do. You just have to know how to. Get a chilton's or a haynes manual and they will also give you good instructions on what to look for.
When seperating the rotor and hub, is it just a matter of pressing the the studs out? Will the hub/rotor come apart then or do you have to press the hub out of the rotor?
No press is needed - you lay the rotor on the ground, studs up, and pound them out, one by one. With a 3 lb hammer, one good whack will do it. The two pieces come apart easily once the studs are removed.
Thanks Andym for that article. I've been scratching my head trying to deal with the warped rotor issue on my 88 F250 4x4. One more clarification on the separation of the rotor and hub, though... Everyone I've asked, from mechanics to auto parts clerks, all tell me the studs have to be pressed in at a machine shop. Is this not true? Can you just hammer them back in like you hammered them out? This could end up saving me $60 in labor!
Yes, you can drive them in with a hammer. Take care not to damage the threads. We used to have an old worn out impact socket we used with a washer welded on it and would then pull the studs into seated position if not fully seated. You will find that it will also work for field expedient repair when necessary to het you home. Improvise, adapt, overcome!