We've had a thread or two on battery cut-off switches. You've all probably seen the black phenolic plastic one with the red key? Commonly sold on the street rod supplier sites. Anyway, mine is junk already. It has never been subjected to high amperage in my low compression smallblock application. It's my opinion they are poor quality. I did not exceed the advertised current flow. Not even close.

I'd love to use one like the military uses because I know they will withstand extreme use/abuse, but I can't get one without stealing it so I ordered an all metal one that is NHRA approved. They sell for $50, but you can get them off ebay for about $30. I'll let you know how this one works out. I'd advise against anyone using the cheapo one.

 

I once used a 3 HP A/C compressor motor starter on a truck after it was stolen and recovered at the Mexico border. It was a 3 phase unit but I just used two legs. I exchanged the 24 volt coil with a 12 volt unit. I run it for years without any problems.

Rod

 

You can also use about a Marine batt switch use on boats.. they can handly muilti batts and high amps.. Most are rated over 1000CCA And if you run more than one batt it will let you charge both and use one to start or the other. And even both if needed.. I have use them for years in boats and never had one fail.. And in a boat they take on a real beating with the water, vibation, Moisture, so on so forth.. Most sale for about $45..

 

"I'd advise against anyone using the cheapo one."

I agree, buying "cheapo" electrical stuff is a good way to make an ASH of yourself.

 

I was also considering the marine dial type switch...any thoughts on mounting?

 

Recently, I've been working on an Electrathon battery-powered small race car with my science students at the high school. It runs off of two 12 volt Optima batteries in series (24V total) with a continuous draw of about 40 -50 amps in a one hour race. The Electrathon rules require a cut-off switch. Our car uses the black plastic-red handle type. This type of switch comes in many different continous and max current draw models. You need to match the correct switch size to its intended application. We also have a metal bodied Pollak-brand cutoff switch for bench testing the batteries.

You can do a search under electric vehicles or go on the electrathon dot org web site to link up with resource vendors to find all kinds of switches for your use.

Fran

 

Mad

Can you post some specific P/Ns? Reason I ask is because a lot of the switches on the market labeled "marine" also look like junk. Some are rated high enough amperage, some aren't.

 

IM home right now . But the brand name to look for would be "Perko" Most marina would refore to the switch as a " Perko Switch " There About 6' in Dia and are Red. Here a link to Boater world where U can order on and this links to a high end Perko switch http://www.boatersworld.com/webapp/w...oductId=690422 This one cost $99.99.. But you get what you pay for.. This is what I run in all my boats.. Here a link to a less expense version http://www.boatersworld.com/webapp/w...oductId=690403

Hope this helps

 

there is a real nice switch available from some race car suppliers that has a link attached to the cutoff that makes it remote mountable, real handy when space is at a premium and race car quality too

 

Oh great, I saw that red handle on Fatfenders truck floor and thought it looked pretty cool. I just bought the cheapo one and installed it to look cool like Fatfenders. Well, not really, I just didn't want hassle lifting the carpet to open the battery cover. Guess I'll be looking for a new switch soon also. My cousins got a really heavy duty switch in his truck which disconnects the fuel pump. I have to find out where he got that on from. It's pretty big compared to the cheapo. By the way, Dewayne, thanks for talking me into getting the cheapo one LOL......

 

Wow, I also got one, but haven't installed yet. I quess I won't. fenders thanks for the heads up.

 

"By the way, Dewayne, thanks for talking me into getting the cheapo one LOL......"

Sorry about that Ed, but I do offer a money back guarantee on my crappy free advice. Provided you kept your receipt of course.

Seriously though, they sell those switches all over the place. It might last you for years. I don't really know. Unfortunately mine didn't. You can get the ones I see on the local drag cars, on ebay for only a little more $.

 

'fenders..........."mine is junk already".... I'm curious as to what happened? ... Did it break some how, just stop working properly, smoke, fire? ( I hope not). I've used the all metal ones for years, never a problem. These are always on a rod of some type, not a daily driver, they don't get cycled very often. Maybe it's like when my mouse quit and I said "how can this happen" and she said "I guess theres only so many clicks in a mouse...Duh" I hate it when shes right...
____________________
xfordman
'53 F100

 

I'll use my switch to control my lights over my work bench. An added conversation piece.

 

Well, the good part of this, is it doesn't take a whole lot of effort to replace the switch. I'll look into the metal ones on ebay. If someone outbids me I'll be upset. LOL....