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Just got back from 3 months in Yuma, Az, pinion bearings starting to whine, so up on the jackstands to pull the ring gear out and decide I would have little more access if spare tire is removed. Read instructions for my truck (it's a 2000) to remove spare tire and it says to look in glove box for key that's needed to lower spare tire to ground - look in box - no key. Call to dealer says you have to order the key if it's missing. I'm going to call Les Schwab in the am to see if they have a "key". In the meantime does anybody have any other ideas? Sure was lucky I never had a flat in the last 5 yrs.
I had the same problem, bought truck used and no spare tire key! Only problem is that the spare tire key is just like a McGuard wheel lock, many patterns, not just one key for all trucks. Also, my Ford dealer in Albany, NY could not cross reference the proper key by using my VIN. They tried nearly 25 different keys they had lying around until they told me I was out of luck due to the fact that it is actually a McGuard product, not a Ford. I ended up talking them into giving me a whole new winch assembly. Cut the cable, dropped the spare, two bolts and the new one was in, without a key! Hope you have better luck!
Thanks rotested for the info - I too will probably cut the cable. A friend of mine brought me over his key - no luck and as you say it's a Mcguard item not Ford. Do you have an idea as to the cost of the winch assembly? I saw like you that it's an easy install.
The winch assembly was $80 or $90, but since I bought the truck used from the dealer, they gave me the part and offered a discount on the labor. I think it took me all of 10 minutes to change it out! Good luck!
Thanks for all the help Guys - Ford Dealer quoted 91 dollars for a new one - found one at a truck salvage yard for 65 bucks - not bad - will try the six point socket trick before I resort to cutting cable though.
Sorry for the late update but got involved with the rear end repairs and forgot to update all on the spare tire winch problem. Bottom line is I did the same thing as bogger472 and beat a 6 point socket (I believe it was a 9/16) on and was able to then lower tire to ground with out cutting cable. It's on there so good that I was even able to raise the tire back up after finishing rear end repairs.
That's why I lock mine into the bed of my truck.... plus it saves me from having to crawl under the truck when the inevitable flat occurs..... doesn't take up too much extra space since it is under the tool box. Been there w/ cutting the cable on a work rig....the six point socket is a good tip.... Thanx!
I know this is an old topic. But you guys helped a lot. We bought a 2000 F250 SuperDuty and just had a flat from running over a hay hook. I ended up using the trick of hammering a 9/16 onto the old one, lowering down the spare, then replacing the lock with a new one. The newer one though was larger around on the head side, it was closer to 17mm now. But the back side of the lock was the same size.
If you look through the hole, upper left from the license plate, there is a plastic tube, that the "key" and crank handle goes through. If you pull off the tube, and take a flashlight you can see where it is at. I had to take off the tube, to line up the socket, then beat it on. And it did take quite a few extenders to reach it.
That's why I lock mine into the bed of my truck.... plus it saves me from having to crawl under the truck when the inevitable flat occurs..... doesn't take up too much extra space since it is under the tool box. Been there w/ cutting the cable on a work rig....the six point socket is a good tip.... Thanx!