requires ether to start
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requires ether to start
I know I am not suppose to spray ether into the engine...but it was the only way I could get it to start. No warning, just got in it one day and it would not start. Is this a glow plug problem or a glow plug relay/coordinator problem, and is there an article on how to replace?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Originally Posted by msmud250
I know I am not suppose to spray ether into the engine...but it was the only way I could get it to start. No warning, just got in it one day and it would not start. Is this a glow plug problem or a glow plug relay/coordinator problem, and is there an article on how to replace?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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still wont start
replaced the glow plug relay, but it did not help.
here is more info/clues:
WTS light working fine, even with jumping off another vehicle it wont start without ether spray (rules out battery?), just had the ford place replace the water pump last week, 105K miles, 2000 F250 7.3L PSD.
I saw a thread about unplugging Oil Temp sensor/sending unit to see if that is the culprit. Any knowledge on that unit, what it looks like?
Any help would be greatly appreciated - I really don't want to take it back to the dealer Monday.
here is more info/clues:
WTS light working fine, even with jumping off another vehicle it wont start without ether spray (rules out battery?), just had the ford place replace the water pump last week, 105K miles, 2000 F250 7.3L PSD.
I saw a thread about unplugging Oil Temp sensor/sending unit to see if that is the culprit. Any knowledge on that unit, what it looks like?
Any help would be greatly appreciated - I really don't want to take it back to the dealer Monday.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2004
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Still sounds like a glow plug problem to me. Have you checked to see if there is any current going to that relay with the key on. Or see if you can hear of feel it close when the key is turned on. If it looks good there.....then it's time to look at the plugs themselves. The WTS lite comes from the PCM, and isn't anything more than a information device.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Bethlehem Ga.
I would'nt spray any more either in it. I'm currently rebuilding a 97 7.3 after it cracked a piston. I only sprayed it 3 or 4 times and I only used the least amount possable. I have heard that you can use WD-40 safely but I have not tried it. Just thought I would throw this in.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,816
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From: River Valley AR
http://andersonimprovements.com/hobb...sandrelay.html
Her'es an article dealing with the glow plug system, maybe it will help.
My truck had a hard start problem that ended up being a starter that was turning too slowly.
Find an inductive (clamp-on) dc ammeter. it will tell you quickly if the glow plugs are working or not. No current on the big wires means no plugs working.
Her'es an article dealing with the glow plug system, maybe it will help.
My truck had a hard start problem that ended up being a starter that was turning too slowly.
Find an inductive (clamp-on) dc ammeter. it will tell you quickly if the glow plugs are working or not. No current on the big wires means no plugs working.
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i had the same problem on my 96 and the first thing i checked was the glow plug relay. this relay looks like the starter relay that is mounted on the firewall except it is under the cover on top of the engine. using a 12volt test light find a good ground and have some one turn the key on for the wts light to come on see if the test lihgt comes on if so then next thing to check is the glow plugs. to do this you need to remove the valve covers. once removed take the test light and hook it up to the positive post on the battery. then touch only the tip of the glow plug if the test light comes on then go to the next one. if the light does not go on then that glow plug is bad. if you find one bad plug i would recommend that you replace all eight. once one goes the rest will follow shortly. would you replace one spark plug if it went bad.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: River Valley AR
Sparke is correct but there's a quicker way. You can touch the test light to the electrical connector pins that go under the valve cover. This way you can check the GP without pulling the valve covers, and you can also check the wiring under the valve cover.
The link that I posted above goes in to more detail on this.
Also remember that voltage and current are different. Dirty contacts in the GPR can still allow you to read voltage coming out, but it may not carry enough current to feed the GP's.
The link that I posted above goes in to more detail on this.
Also remember that voltage and current are different. Dirty contacts in the GPR can still allow you to read voltage coming out, but it may not carry enough current to feed the GP's.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by bodabdan
Also remember that voltage and current are different. Dirty contacts in the GPR can still allow you to read voltage coming out, but it may not carry enough current to feed the GP's.
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resolution
Here is an update on the starting problem:
The problem is solved (at least for 5 days now). I replaced the Glow Plug Relay then tried to crank cold, but with no success. I was using jumper cables in all my test to make sure that the crank was strong/fast, so I had ruled out any kind of battery problem. I decided to replace the 5 year old batteries (dual batteries) since they were due anyway and now it cranks fine cold. I am assumming that the problem was the relay or a battery or a combination of both.
Thanks for all the input!
The problem is solved (at least for 5 days now). I replaced the Glow Plug Relay then tried to crank cold, but with no success. I was using jumper cables in all my test to make sure that the crank was strong/fast, so I had ruled out any kind of battery problem. I decided to replace the 5 year old batteries (dual batteries) since they were due anyway and now it cranks fine cold. I am assumming that the problem was the relay or a battery or a combination of both.
Thanks for all the input!
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