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If you aren't sure what to get, chances are that you'd be happy with either.
With that said, I'd shoot for the configuration that you are after 1st (Super cab, CC, 7.3L, 4x4, etc, etc) and let the auto vs the manual thing go by the way side.
I agree with superrangerman2002. I found evertyhing I wanted with the exception of the 6sp in my truck. The manual trannies are much more difficult to find with the other options I was looking for (Lariat, CC,7.3, etc.) so I now have the auto. Can't tell you my opinion of it yet, since I haven't driven it (I'm deployed to Iraq right now) but I know that in many ways I will be glad I got the auto, the shifting can get tiresome sometimes. Either way, good luck finding what you are looking for, regardless of what you end up with I'm sure you'll love your truck as much as everyone here does.
how 'far down the road' do you mean? and yes I'd be looking for '96-'02
That depends entirely on how well it was maintained. My brother has a '97 F350 with an E40D auto. After using it as a work truck and frequently towing trailers (up to 13,000 pounds), his gave up. It had 240,000 miles on it. A manual would have gone much farther - but if the E40D wasn't well maintained, it wouldn't have lasted anywhere near that long.
There are people who rebuild the 4R100/E40D to be nearly bulletproof. It is expensive, even more so than a stock tranny rebuild. But if my 4R100 dies, I'm betting it will be cheaper to convert it to a 6-speed - and I will. This is my first automatic trans in over 30 years. It works okay, but daily I'm reminded of why I don't like automatics in the first place.
In a Lincoln or big Caddy? Okay. In a big Mercedes? Fine. In a BMW, GTO, Mustang, any truck, or any kind of sports or muscle car, there is no substitute for a manual trans. IMHO, anyway.
The manual is still, and will always be the best way to go on a working truck. If you treat your truck like a car, or if you're into the hot rod scene the auto will be better, but you'll still have to spend some money on it to make it last.
cookie,
when you say spend money on it, you mean rebuilds or something else?
Personally, the PSD (and Duramax) are much better 'performers' with an automatic than with the manual. It takes too much time to get your boost back after shifting and that really sucks. A manual is the only way to go with the Cummins because it doesn't take ten years to build boost. With a automatic behind your PSD, you can keep the engine in the RPM band that it likes to run in (2500 and up).
Check out the part about ZF saying that they expect manuals to comprise 6% of ALL NORTH AMERICAN VEHICLES by 2012.
How sad.
It's all in an effort to 'take the driver out of the equation' when operating a vehicle. The less things the driver has control of, the less problems the vehicle will have warranty wise due to someone who can't drive a manual. That and fuel economy can be equalized from vehicle to vehicle (for the most part) because the PCM has control of everything.
Well like superrangerman2002 did.... I ended up looking for configuration first... PSD, 4*4 ex-cab long bed, black or a variation of it... low milage ( 57K when i bought it.. 61 now ).. trans took a back seat unfortunately... not a day goes by with out me wishing i had a standard in the ol' Girl.... but hey... thats what the Mustang GT is for that is sitting in the garage... (of course it's covered in dust now because it's hard to pry me out of my truck ) so it's all down to preference I think, do you like shifting gears and having full control over your truck? (sort of wish i did) or will you be sitting in traffic all day and have a broken ancle from pushing the clutch in? Basically any Power-Smoke u end up with you will be happy with if you treat it right!! good luck
cookie,
when you say spend money on it, you mean rebuilds or something else?
If you are going to set it up for towing or performance you'll want to spend some money to prevent having to lay out the cash for a rebuild. Additional coolers, synthetic fluid, shift kits, torque converters etc. Then if all that doesn't work and it fails anyway you're either looking at ~$2000 for a cheap rebuild or $3000++ for one of the custom jobs that will handle anything.
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