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A dent repair specialist told me too add nerf bars. Said this will help some, especially with small cars. Will not help much against trucks, suv's. I may go that route except i do not like the look of the bars.
they also make what i think they call sport bars that fit up against the body . not a nerf bar so to speak i saw some on a nascar edition screw at one of the local dealerships that looked pretty good
Resurrecting this thread because yesterday I got my first door ding! (the two stages of grief) The first time I don't park away from everyone, and he gets me. Luckily, he was retuning to his car as I was noticing the damage and said he would pay to have it fixed. I just ordered the side moulding that Cincy 150 showed the link to, but I liked the moulding that Neil put on his alot. Putting on side moulding is something I meant to do but just never got around to, now I definitely will. I'll post pics in my gallery soon.
Resurrecting this thread because yesterday I got my first door ding! (the two stages of grief) The first time I don't park away from everyone, and he gets me. Luckily, he was retuning to his car as I was noticing the damage and said he would pay to have it fixed. I just ordered the side moulding that Cincy 150 showed the link to, but I liked the moulding that Neil put on his alot. Putting on side moulding is something I meant to do but just never got around to, now I definitely will. I'll post pics in my gallery soon.
You won't regret adding the body molding. It was very easy to install. I think the truck looked incomplete without it. Luckily, the molding covered the door ding that some jerk gave me.
Luckily, the molding covered the door ding that some jerk gave me.
Actually, the guy that dinged me was quite nice and said he was the owner of a new Lariat. I thought "if you own one, why weren't you more careful not to hit mine?" You know what? On second thought, I guess he was a jerk!
[QUOTE=Cincy F150]I just saw this link on another site. It looks like this stuff fits pretty good. I'm not sure about the finish on the cut ends though.
I placed this moulding on my RCab, '04, XLT. It is an easy install, trimmed to fit what ever type of pickup. It is trimmed by the truck owner to size from a 10' bulk strip. The strip is 7/16" at the truck side, and 1/2" deep, with a strip of thin chrome. The moulding attaches to the metal by existing 3M stickum.
I was skeptical about the 3M stickum, however, I have had the moulding on for several months and during 3 weeks of 100º+ weather, plus several car washes.
To aid in making a level application of the moulding use a long type of straight edge attached to the truck side by masking tape . I did well by using only masking tape, but those with a jittery hands should use a tempo taped on straight edge. The bulk moulding cuts to size by using a very sharp knife or a hack saw. A cleaner cut can be made by using those long nose, sharp cutting blade shears sold by Sears. The moulding is shipped coiled in a box. Because it is rubber based, allow the moulding to lay in the sun on a warm driveway prior to applying to allow relaxing the coiled configuration
When ordering it may ask if the buyer wants "2". This mean two sets, enough for 2 trucks. One set has 2 pieces of moulding, one for the left, one for the right side.
Hey Dazz, thanks for the installation tips. I was wondering if this moulding would be paintable. Just curious.
My truck is white. The black moulding with the thin chrome strip looks like it is stock, like my mud flappers,, window trim, etc. I liked this choice because of the low cost, no permanent hole drilling, easy install, and I could put pieces where I wished at what ever length.
By error I ordered "2" sets, thinking that meant 1 for one side and 1 for the other side. However, "2" means for two trucks. I realize this is expensive @ $26.95 per coil ($53.90 for two trucks), but I feel in 3-4 years or so this particular moulding may not be on the market, like many other After Market goodies. But I now have the extra coil on hand in case some dumbo down the line decides to scrap or dent my moulding.
Another install hint: You may cut any of the strips at any angle you wish. I liked the 45º angle, However, where the doors hindge at the static body I went up to 60º cuts to avoid the two pieces of moulding bumping into each other.
I'll second the nerf bar suggestion - I put some from Waag on this weekend. The Waags are wheel-to-wheel, which gives a little more protection. (They actually are not full wheel-to-wheel, but one's options are limited with a regular cab. And they also help with reaching into the middle of the bed.)
One other thing you can do is back into parking spaces. This was regular doctrine at a utility where I worked a few years ago - it's much easier to see where you are going and what you might hit when pulling out. It also, luckily, lets you leave more space for the driver's side door opposite yours. YMMV.
I have the molding from sportwing installed on my s/cab. They painted it to match color (drk shadow grey). Looks like it came from the factory. Pretty easy install, fits right down the channel along the side of the truck. All pieces are precut and labeled as where to put them. The factory should have included these or at least made it an option.
Just got my body side mouldings and installed them today. They are just what I wanted and I think they look great. Posted pics in my gallery, check them out.
Last edited by rougeriver; Aug 27, 2005 at 04:38 PM.
Hey bpez, I bought front fender liners and cut them to fit up in the rear. They work great. They cut using good scissors- wear gloves- and it's an easy, trial and error process, cutting just a little at a time. Mine only needed one bolt per side, I used an existing bolt forward the rear tire, and the flare- Lariat and FX4- holds it firmly in place. Trucks with no flare would need an additional bolt or two. I got them at the dealership parts counter but you can find better prices online. Good luck!
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