Glow Plug Seating Question
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New User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Gator Country
Glow Plug Seating Question
I recently purchased a 1985 Ford Ranger 2.3L Turbo Diesel, and am getting it back into running condition. One of the things that I changed was the glow plugs. It starts right up now, but I would like clarification on glow plug seating.
When comparing the old glow plugs to the new, the heating element on the new ones is about 1/4" longer than on the ones I removed. They are the same part, so I'm guessing this is normal degradation. When I installed the new ones, there was resistance at a depth that left more of the plug outside the block than the old plugs left.
Do the glow plugs slowly degrade over time, and need to be seated a little further into the block as they degrade?
Should the plugs be seated at a depth where they are making contact and have resistance, or should I back them out a little when I feel the resistance? If so, how much? What is it inside the block that the plugs are coming into contact with to create the resistance I'm feeling?
When comparing the old glow plugs to the new, the heating element on the new ones is about 1/4" longer than on the ones I removed. They are the same part, so I'm guessing this is normal degradation. When I installed the new ones, there was resistance at a depth that left more of the plug outside the block than the old plugs left.
Do the glow plugs slowly degrade over time, and need to be seated a little further into the block as they degrade?
Should the plugs be seated at a depth where they are making contact and have resistance, or should I back them out a little when I feel the resistance? If so, how much? What is it inside the block that the plugs are coming into contact with to create the resistance I'm feeling?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
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From: Manitoba
Which GPs did you buy make and #, are they applicable to your vehicle. Carbon could be restraining the GP from seating, but it sound like they may be the wrong ones.
Unfortunately some GPs last a day or two ie Autolite, Chumpion etc so be careful.
Unfortunately some GPs last a day or two ie Autolite, Chumpion etc so be careful.
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New User
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From: Gator Country
They said they were Motorcraft ZD-6 which is what is called for. When I got them, they were Mitsubishi plugs, but were the exact same ones as the Mits that I pulled from the block. I know the plugs are the same, but don't know why they have a longer element. The ones I removed looked like they were quite tattered.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
I would consider the carbon problem is the culprit then. If the ends are burnt off the original ones I would think the timing is advanced too far... it will do that to our IDIs.
If it is carbon.....
I would consider trying to gently open the carbon hole if possible to the diameter of the new GP plus a couple thou..... as for a tool to use try a screw driver something that will not fall in the cylinder. If you can look in the gp hole to determine the blockage.
Before starting the engine if carbon was the culprit, roll the engine over by hand a couple revolutions to ensure full clear rotation, use a socket on the crank bolt.
If it is carbon.....
I would consider trying to gently open the carbon hole if possible to the diameter of the new GP plus a couple thou..... as for a tool to use try a screw driver something that will not fall in the cylinder. If you can look in the gp hole to determine the blockage.
Before starting the engine if carbon was the culprit, roll the engine over by hand a couple revolutions to ensure full clear rotation, use a socket on the crank bolt.
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