Can someone tell me what years and models had a 460 in a 2-wd 5-speed manuel? I have a 76 f-250 4x4 with a divorced transfer case. I want to put a 5-speed to try to lower my rpm's(better gas milage). Being it is a divorced system a 2-wd should work, with a little modifying?I hope. I have a big block in it now.

 

The 5 speed trannys were available from 1987 or 88 thru 1998 if F250 & F350 trucks. You would need to have the tranny from a truck with a 460 in it because the bellhousing is integrated with the transmission. You will also have to convert over to a hydraulic clutch as there is no provision on the 5 speed for the manual linkage in your truck.

Your conversion should work just fine. You would most likely have to either modify your spud shaft or have a custom one made to go in between the tranny and x-fer case.

 

Here is a thread that contains a lot of detailed information about a swap:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=44122

 

I just finished the installation of a ZF 5 speed into my 1975 crew cab. It was fairly staight forward.
If you have an externally balanced motor, have the donor flywheel neutrally balanced. Then you can use the OEM pressure plate, etc. The pedal assembly from a donor truck of the same vintage is a no-brainer swap, they bolt right in.
You will have to build a new cross member to support it. I used the stock crossmember and cut out the center section to retain the stock mounting holes and built the new crossmember off of that, I also made the center section removalble as the stock unit does not come out so well.
As I could not figure out how to install a hydraulic clutch without moving the master cylinder, I converted it to mechanical linkage. It took some thinking and messing around, but it works. I fab'd a bracket that supports a 5/8" id bearing and is bolted to 2 of the tranny bolts. On the frame side I mounted a rod end (heim joint) to a bracket on the frame. The rotating "arms" are 1" square tubing welded to the 5/8" rocker shaft. You want the input arm (attached to the clutch pedal rod) to be about 1/2 the length of the output arm. I also built a 3" extension for the clutch fork. Use rod ends for your linkage at all pivot points. I may re-vamp mine one more time next winter to lessen then pedal pressure and slow down the rate of engagement as my arm length's are to close to equal, but otherwise it seems to be working fine.
Otherwise, I used a ZF from a 4x4, the 1356 case is too wide for the early frame, so if you remove a 1/2 moon notch from the mounting flange on the ZF to clear the the shift fork, the 205 will bolt up. This also saves you the issues of speedometer drives. As the ZF is about 2 inches shorter than a C-6, you will have to shorten / lengthen drive shafts. I did this my self and have no problems with balance.

Misc. things.... The stock shift lever seems to be a decent length. And you can install the motor and ZF as one unit if you remove the radiator and take the shift fork out of the ZF.

Good luck!