I have a 1984 F-150 regular cab short bed
that I use to tow quite a bit and it has a lot of sway in it.
which is understandable but my question is can i put a sterling 10.25 dually axle under this truck and run dualls and put the dually fender on the short bed i know it would look wierd but would it work.


thanks,
Joel Thomas,
Little Rock,AR

 

If I was you I'd invest about $50 at the most into a good set of "Add-a-leafs" for the rear end, it will jack the rear end up about 2", but will also give a much stiffer ride when empty, it does wonders under a full load though.

1995 F-150 XL Reg Cab/Bed
http://members.sounddomain.com/blind
5-star rated F-150 (big stereo)

 

I have ethe add-aleafs but they don't help much.
I have access to the dually equipement can it be done w/ the dually fenders on the short bed,
I need good hard evidence not guesses.


thanks

 

Where's Brad when you need him???? One of our other members was just talking about converting a single to a dually if you look around on the site you will see posts from bgodkin post and ask him if he has the info you need. he is usually in the diesel section but is also in the 80-96 section and the general conversation GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR PROJECT!!!
john

 

Hey Treefort,
I am in the process of converting my 86 F350 CC/SRW to a Dually. Here is what I have found out so far. The factory dually rear fenders will not bolt on to your bed with out a lot of work. The box sides have a bigger opening to clear the dual rear wheels and a lip made into them that the fenders bolt too. Your best bet would be to find a F250 DRW roll-along converion and get the fenders from it. They look pretty close to the same on the outside but bolt to the box wall. You will still have to cut your box sides to clear the tires but you will not need the lip to bolt the fenders to with these. As for the rear axle, Width should be the same between your 1/2 ton and a 3/4 or a 1 ton axle. Springs on the other hand are wider on the heavier trucks and I don't think 1/2 ton springs will bolt to a heavier axle. The rear axle under my truck is the same as a DRW truck with the exception of the locating pins for the DRW's have been removed from the axle and the lug nuts are different. I have seen kits in J.C. Whitney to convert light duty trucks to DRW in the past. DO NOT USE THESE KITS under any circumstances. All they do is put a whole bunch of radial stress on the lug bolts and bearings in your rear end. Use of these kits is just asking for a broken axle. If I can be of any help just let me know. I am usually around during the day until 4pm central time and on weekends feel free to call me at (915)795-1779. Good luck on your project

Brad Godkin
1986 F350 CC/SRW
6.9liter/C6

 

Brad, I knew you wouldn't miss this one!!! a man after your own heart. John

 

Hey You Know me John
Hey Joel, I got to thinking after We talked earlier. I went out and measured my springs and they are 3 inches wide. then I looked at the spring perches and felt pretty stupid. They are just rivited to the frame. Chances are you could just grind the rivits off and using Grade 8 bolts, reinstall them onto your truck. I would measure center to center on the perchs and make sure they mount up the same first though. Hey this is do-able! Keep me posted and let me know If I can do anything else.

Brad Godkin
1986 F350 CC/SRW
6.9liter/C6

 

What about aftermarket front and rear swaybars? They are a little bigger in diameter. I am going to put these on sometime in the near future on my 95 reg cab shorty. I have to admit, these are not the best trucks for handling at highway speeds. Often wondered if a tonneau cover would help....
Anyway, good luck with your project. I was actually thinking about the exact same thing the other day for my truck, but it would be strictly for looks only, as I do not tow anything. I remember seeing a bronco dually a few years back in some mag, it must have been a pretty good tow rig.

Les

 

I had a 1990 F150 XLT Lariat with a 351 and a 5 speed. I replaced all the bushings in the front (even the inboard I beam bushings, what a pain) with poly bushings and swapped out the front and rear sway bars with a set from Hotchkiss Performance. Handled 100% better than stock. I then put on 15x8 aluminum slot rims and 255/75R-15 Hoosier Radial GT's and it handled better yet. I finally swapped out the rear leaf spring bushings, rear shock bushings and all four shocks with Monroe Sensa-tracs. Handled Excellent. I was amazed how flat it would stay in the corners, not a sports car but definatly a BIG improvement over stock.

Brad Godkin
1986 F350 CC/SRW
6.9liter/C6

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 08-Jan-01 AT 01:26 PM (EST)[/font][p]The Sterling will fit under your truck with no problem. I made this swap but I also got one ton springs and the back half of the frame to go with it. It made mine handle alot better when towing. You will have to shorten your driveshaft too.
I really don't think dually wheels would be necessary for the weight you could safely haul considering the 1/2 ton platform. I don't run duallies on mine, just 10 ply tires. I would recommend getting the full floating axle tho, as I think the Sterling is also available in semi floating. It gives me piece of mind to know if I was to snap an axle I would still keep my wheels on!!!

DannyP
89 F-150 4x4 former EFI I-6 now carbed 351W, Edelbrock heads,cam,intake,carb.
MSD 6A, ZF, Sterling 10.25 with 3.55L's.

 

Hey guys, it will be a pretty good looking truck afterwords i once worked for this guy that had a wrecker he built out of a half ton with a 302 in it. looked good pulled nice and all. The DRW looked good but got to keep in mind that if you don't possible changed thr front axle or get some 16 inch tires you'll need to carey two spares....

Mike

 

Yep, I carry two spares. I did find 16x5 rims for the front to keep my transfer case happy. I am constantly on the lookout for a DANA 60 to slap under the front end, but for now I am happy the way it is.

DannyP
89 F-150 4x4 former EFI I-6 now carbed 351W, Edelbrock heads,cam,intake,carb.
MSD 6A, ZF, Sterling 10.25 with 3.55L's.

 

 

If you're simply looking to get rid of side sway why don't you try putting a set of heavier (sidewall) tires on?

Trail Rider

 

Hey by chance did you just get some steel 16x5 rims or what i am thinking of converting my half ton up to 16 inch tires so I can @ least get the 1 ton look with out the high price of 33x9.50...

Mike