alright i went and got a Master fuel pump from autozone tonight. I read the instructions and i'm kinda confused about some stuff. The 1st step says "Before removing old pump, note whether fuel section is in the "up" or "down" position. what is the fuel section??. Step 4 states "Check the push rod (if used) for signs of wear. Replace if needed". Does 300's use push rods. How can i find out without gettin down, upside down and twisted in the engine bay to look into the hole in the block? Step 5 says "Add Grease to the rocker arm pad and rocker arm cavity to lubricate the internal parts". does this mean i have to take the valve cover off and stuff and grease those parts? Step 7 says "after the bolts are started into the engine block, tilt the pump either toward or away from the block. this coccectly places the lever against the cam" Is it really that easy? I'm I might sound dumb but i wanna be sure so i dont mess stuff up.

 

im assuming this is for a carbed engine, just unbolt the old pump take the new pump with a new gasket, apply some oil or grease to the arm, shove the rocker arm into the hold and bolt it up. thats about it, also the pump has a tendency to tilt forward because of spring pressure from the rocker arm contacting the cam lobe.

 

why can they just say that lol

 

Hello, this is an easy job and you should have no trouble. Many companies use the same set of instructions for all mechanical pumps. Thats why you see reference to push rods and such. I think Chevy V8s use a rod. Yours has a long lever that is pushed up by an eccentric mounted on the cam gear (at least FE's are). The contact point of that lever and eccentric is what they want you to grease. Like any internal engine part you never want to start metal to metal. I always pack some grease into the back of the mounting flange on the pump body. That is where the levers pivot point is. Another good trick I have learned is upon removal to loosen the bolts evenly about half way and take note of the amount of tension on the pump. The tension of the lever and diaphragm causes the pump body to be cocked. Not so bad on removal but repacement is much easier if that tention is eliminated. I dont think there is ever zero tension but you want as little as possible so simply rotate the engine with a ratchet with your hand on the pump and find the low spot. Once you find that go ahead and remove the pump. Coat both sides of your gasket LIGHTLY with Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker. Dont forget the grease. You pretty much cant go wrong bolting it in. I also think it is a good idea to use teflon tape on the line connections. Not as necessary on the suction side but I do both sides anyway. Cant go wrong.

Good luck with you job. I just did the exact same job a few months ago. Master brand and all. I have been doing that kind of thing for a couple of decades so I didn't read the directions. Doesent sound very informative anyhow. I hope this info helps some. Let us know!

Greg