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Abrasive Blaster

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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 07:22 PM
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Post Abrasive Blaster

I have read about people here using the portable blaster for frames etc. What about sheet metal? I am contemplating getting one so I can clean up my rear fenders and items like that. I see there is a tip for fine abrasives. Could a fine abrasive and a low PSI be combined to not heat the metal up to much and warp it?
 
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 07:29 PM
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...thats what i hear, along with not stayin in the same place for long periods of time.....i think when it comes time to do it, im just goin to shoot an old fender or something and learn off of one of those....sounds like you want what ive got, and they tell me mine will work just fine....
Darrell
 
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 07:41 PM
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I did the frame and every inch of sheet metal on my 55 with a 40# harbor freight pressurized blaster. It taxed my compressor but didn't come close to damaging the sheet metal. As thick as these old trucks are, I believe you would have a hard time hurting them with a home system, a commercial unit would be a different story.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 08:04 PM
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I have one of those 60 gallon upright compressors capable of about 10 CFM at 120 PSI. I have a second regulator I would be turning down to 60 PSI as that is the recomended minimum. They have some crystal grit there that is not sand so I thought about getting some and giving it a shot. I have a large tarp I can put the pieces on and catch some of the grit and resue it.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 08:56 PM
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I too have a 60 gallon upright, and blasted every inch of the cab last fall. I have the same 40# harbor freight blaster, and it worked well. I used a shop vac to recover the Black Beauty media I was using. I would wait for the compressor to catch up evey 5 minutes or so, which gave me time to vaccuum up the mess. I would make it a habit of stopping and draining the compressor after each tank (about 1 hour worth of work), and clean out the blaster, before starting fresh.

As the compressor runs, it heats up, and moisture collects in the air lines, and then clogs the blaster. But take your time, clean your blaster as you go, and it should go well.

Have yet to warp any sheet metal, or blow a hole through any "good" sheet metal. It really lets you "know what you got" after your done. Rust can't hide from this stuff.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 10:58 PM
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Question

Hey guys, what pressure and cfm is adequate to run the 40# blaster your talking about? I know I need a bigger compressor, but I don't want to spend too much either.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 06:45 AM
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I have the Husky 60 gal, with the overrated 6.5 HP motor and it was pushed hard. I would suggest getting the smaller size ceramic tips from harbor freight; they tended to do a better job as the air dropped.

A good cartridge respirator and hood will be an absolute necessity. The little cloth hoods that came with the HF 40# blaster do a poor job.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Huntsman
I have the Husky 60 gal, with the overrated 6.5 HP motor and it was pushed hard. I would suggest getting the smaller size ceramic tips from harbor freight; they tended to do a better job as the air dropped.

A good cartridge respirator and hood will be an absolute necessity. The little cloth hoods that came with the HF 40# blaster do a poor job.


I blasted my bed on my 50 f1 thick enough no warping and I just purchased two gas masks new for 14$ and plan to use them next big sand blast job my devillbis 6.5 hp never missed a beat and did not have to wait for it to catch up. 22cfm a real 6.5 hp. I have use my honda pressure washer with the sand blast attachment very succesfully never herd them mentioned water yield no heat. would use on thinner material. less mess no sand every crevous for a block or so. Ed ke6bnl
 
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 07:29 AM
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Tell me more about the pressure washer sand blaster setup? I wouldn't mind not having sand every place.



Originally Posted by ke6bnl
I blasted my bed on my 50 f1 thick enough no warping and I just purchased two gas masks new for 14$ and plan to use them next big sand blast job my devillbis 6.5 hp never missed a beat and did not have to wait for it to catch up. 22cfm a real 6.5 hp. I have use my honda pressure washer with the sand blast attachment very succesfully never herd them mentioned water yield no heat. would use on thinner material. less mess no sand every crevous for a block or so. Ed ke6bnl
 
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 08:19 AM
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Messy

How big was the mess, and did you do anything to mitigate it? I have been considering it, but was concerned about the sand being in the cracks of my Garage forever.

Broomfieldbum
 
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ke6bnl
I blasted my bed on my 50 f1 thick enough no warping and I just purchased two gas masks new for 14$ and plan to use them next big sand blast job my devillbis 6.5 hp never missed a beat and did not have to wait for it to catch up. 22cfm a real 6.5 hp. I have use my honda pressure washer with the sand blast attachment very succesfully never herd them mentioned water yield no heat. would use on thinner material. less mess no sand every crevous for a block or so. Ed ke6bnl
I used the pressure washer for the Frame of my 50 F1, the sand is syphoned in with the pressure washer at low pressure but it seems to do a nice job of blasting the metal. The sand is where the water is not 100's of feet in all directions. I purchased the pressure washer at the big box store Costco and I found the sand blast attachment at WalMart for about $17 dollars not sure if that was pricing mistake because other places want about $42 and it fit right on the end of my gun. Hope that helps I also see an advantage in that the sand comes of like a slurry and less to know chance of breathign the silica. Ed ke6bnl
 
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 08:00 PM
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thats the thing i have to complain about....did my frame and im still finding sand in places on and around the motor.....

ive got an 80 gallon upright, cant remember hp or cfm off hand, but i did let it catch up and cool off once in a while....im satisfied i guess....when it comes to sheet metal when i have the pressure turned down, the compressor shouldnt have to work so hard...

however, with my 40 lb harbor freight blaster, i noticed that by the time i was done with my frame, the 1/4 turn valve on the end of the hose is eroded away to the point where, when you shut it off, it still blows air and sand out the end.....that aggravated me a little, but i guess i can put another valve on it....anyone else have problems with their little harbor freight blasters wearin out in places like that??
Darrell
 
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 08:10 PM
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My valve lasted one day. The ceramic nozzles do better but need to be checked and changed often with a smaller cfm tank.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 10:08 PM
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Smile

Ed, the pressure washer idea sounds good! What psi and gpm is yours rated for? Does it take the crud and paint off? Do you end up with a big sandy mess?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2005 | 11:06 AM
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The city crews use a baking soda blaster to get grafitti off of masony walls. I guess it does less damage to the block and the baking soda breaks down. Has anyone ever tried that on metal?

Cal
 
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