Hello,

My 97 Expedition Eddie Bauer makes a horrible squeeking sound when steering. I've tried greasing up everything including the ball joints, pitman arm, etc.... but still have the sound. I've heard the lower ball joints could be causing this issue. When they go out do they make this sound when steering and how hard is it to change them out. I'm guessing its best to swap out the uppers while I'm at it?

 

The right lower ball went on my 2000 with 45k. Made a horrible squeeking, enough that I would turn heads just rolling down the street. After doing some searching here it looked like a pretty common problem.

 

Very common on almost all larger trucks and SUV's...I have made a habit of checking the balljoints on any Expy with over 50K anytime one comes in the shop.

 

Do you know if you can add a grease fitting to the ball joint?

 

Depending on where you purchase the replacement balljoints, many come with grease fittings. I have good luck with the ball joints from Napa autoparts. If you are asking can you drill and tap a hole in the existing balljoint and insert a fitting, I wouldn't try it. You risk getting those metal filings and shavings in the joint by drilling and tapping the hole.

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

Oh just thought I'd add something about these stupid bloody grease nipples
I broke one this week on my 98 EB, on the drivers side lower ball joint, trying to grease it up.
I now have to take it to a shop as I dont have the tools to dismantle the front end suspension to replace the grease nipple, the head sheered off, leaving the threads in the lower ball joint.
You can't access the hole with an easy out, because of the front drive shaft being about 2 inches or less above it.
So, BE CAREFUL, with these stoopid things.
This few cent piece of junk is probably going to set me back a few hundered bucks!!
GGGRRR!!!

 

However the magicians at Ford engineered the ball joints...they did it in a way that seems to put a lot of stress and wear on them....join the club

 

Exactly, another dumb strange Ford design? quirky.
Are they out of a parts bin for some thing else or do you think someone actually designed them that way, IE. cheap!!

 

I had a squeak on my '97 Epxy and it was the non greasable pitman arm, the one that bolts to the tie rod shaft. I worked the PB Blaster spray nozzle directly through the rubberboot sealing the joint and sprayed it well, them I took my grease gun with the hypodermic needle pin probe and stuck it in there and greased the joint, it has not been back for 70,000 miles. Broken wire

 

Thats a good one to know.
I have always liked vehicles I can work on myself, if I can. I really don't like paying shop prices of 90+ Bucks an hour. Its far more than I earn so I`m just a working joe trying to keep costs down doing what I can myself.

 

I also use the hypodermic needle grease applicator. You can usually work it around the edge of a rubber protector, but if you need to, jab it right into the joint. It also works great for greasing wheel bearings .

 

Has anybody replaced the lower ball joints themselves?
It would be nice to hear from those who have done it and can speak from experience.

Mine is on its way out, still within specs per mechanic but would be nice to replace.

I was quoted 225 for the labor of pair of lower ball joints and additional 120 for the labor on installation of camber cam bolts for both sides (which sadly is not installed in my 99 xpy from factory). I got the diagnostics and quote when I tried to have my vehicle aligned at Sears, I did not get charged for the diagnostics. I'm still thinking about it since I surely could use the money for some other goodies (dual exhaust catback comes in mind).

Unfortunately, although it would seem that the removel of lower ball joints is about 75% of the job working on the upper arms already (with the torsion bar pressure relieved already as necessary to work on the ball joints, drive shaft removed if need be ...), the charge for each job is separate.
So I thought that it would be worth doing, but cautious enough to ask if there is any pit fall in this job. I'm not a professional mechanic (As you may have guessed) but have worked on similar matter for a mid-size car (94 Galant - lower ball joint/arm replaced and vehicle lowered by replacing 4 springs). I'm hoping that specialty pulling tools can be rented at Autozone, to save some more green bucks in addition to labor cost.

Any feed back is appreciated. Thanks

 

I think with the time and more importantly right tools, you can do this yourself.
I would if I had the right puller and the time to do it properly.
Its not as bad as trying to compress coil springs.
The haynes manual gives a few paragraphs on the subject of removing the torsion bar, which goes along with my theory, less said, the better.
Just take your time.

 

I took my 98 XLT 4X4 in last week to Ford dealer for new ball joints. Even with 113K on truck dealer called back and said joints were like new and didn't need replacement for quite a while. They quoted me $740 for both uppers and lowers.