how in the world do you get the third (top) bolt out so you can remove the starter?? ('85 6.9)

 

I think I used a 6" and a 1" extension and it worked fine. the other thing you can do is get a 'wobbly' extension (either a loose old one or they make 'em that way too)

 

you should give youself a signature while you're logged in for future reference...

 

I'm not sure what you mean by a signature..I will look around for that.

I was underneath and when I would reach up there was no place to put the rachet to get any movement. It was also very tight just getting my hands in there to find the last bolt. I can tell that the starter is not original equipment........maybe whoever replaced it used one that is larger than stock.

I might be able to get at it if I used a u-joint but I'm still not sure I could get any good angle on it with that.

Should I be trying to get it from above instrad of underneath??

 

I got it from underneath. do you have a stubby ratchet? that may help. as far as the signature, at the toolbar you'll see "user CP" go to that and then edit signature. you put in the particulars of your truck so you don't have to keep typing them

 

Thanks for your help. I will try it with a u-joint and if that doesn't work I'll try the stubby.

I sold all my tools several years back and am slowly buying new ones. I wasn't planning to work on anymore rigs, but when my dad died I got his pick-up. I thought this would be a good rig for my daughter to drive (TANK) but it has been giving me fits since I got it home.

 

Just get about 3 foot of extensions together. If you look between the front crossmember and radiator and then back to the starter the top bolt is very easy to see, and get at. This is sitting in front of the tire looking OVER the crossmember along the motor mount.

 

I had to take the starter off last week when I replaced the clutch and I found once you get the right extensions its easy. Heres what I did:

Get a 3/8 drive ratchet and put on 7 (i think) inches of extension so the ratchet is right out infront of the starter. I think I used a wobbly joint thingy but a u joint should work the same. You might not even need a moving joint. The important thing is to get the ratchet located on the front end of the starter with the extensions running parallel along the top to the bolt.
Im looking at the scars on my knuckles from that bolt if that brightens your day any.
Thats one of those bolts that takes a few beer breaks to get off the first time. Good luck.

 

I agree exactly with dieseldan, 7" of extension and a stubby ratchet and it's a breeze

 

I have seen 5 variations of starters for the 6.9 and 7.3 engine.
One Delco version and 4 Mitsubishi versions.
The top bolt on the original 6.9 Mitsubishi version will not come out with a rachet.
The starter motor is so far offset from the drive that it can not be done.
That starter had a boxy look to it instead of round looking like the newer ones are.
When I took the original starter off my engine I had to remove the top bolt first. That way when it was just a little loose I could turn the bolt with my fingers till I got it out.
Every time I get a new starter they get longer and rounder than the last one was. Also the offset between the motor and drive become less and less.
When you get a new starter, get the Mitsubishi gear reduction starter. It is much better than the big fat Delco direct drive model.
The last starter I got was so long that the cross member almost did not let it go in, but the bolts were real easy to get at with a rachet.

 

Dave,
FYI (unless you mean they changed the starters from year to year). I just replaced my original Mitsubishi starter about a month ago. and I got it out with a stubby ratchet and 7" of extensions. The one I bought was exactly the same size shape, etc. If they were changing original starters from year to year then I misunderstood you

 

I have replaced the starter on my truck 4 times.
The new starter has never looked like the one that I took off from the last time I replaced it.
I always get a Mitsubishi gear reduction starter from NAPA.
I wish I had taken pictures of each starter to have for my files.
As I remember the first starter was about 8" long and about 8" wide and 4" thick. The motor and gear reduction housings were box shaped on the outside. The offset was so great that there was no way to use anything to get the top bolt out except a wrench. The only way to even see it was with a mirror. The housing was made of aluminum.
The one that replaced it was two round steel tubes, but the overall dimensions were about the same. Still could not use a rachet to get the top bolt. But you could see it from outside behind the front wheel.
The third one was about 10" long and 5" wide and 4" thick. Tubes were still round, but the offset was less and you could use a rachet and two universals and two six inch extensions to bolt it on. You could even see the top bolt from under the truck.
I put the last one on about 18 months ago. It was a long straight tube, no offset at all. The gear reduction must use planitary gears. It was so long that the cross member gave me fits till I got it turned just right and the nose cone slid past the flywheel. My hand barely fits between the end of the starter and the cross member when the starter is bolted in place. But the bolts were a real pleasure to put in for the first time. Short socket and universal on the rachet and it was done.
You also have to understand this has been over the last 19 years. So every one of of the starters were at least 4 years newer than the last one.
I would guess that I changed it in 90, 95, 99 and 03 without digging out my records.
I do remember the last time I changed it I got a bad new starter. Changed it twice in the same day. That was the only time the two starters looked exactly the same.

 

WHOOO HOOO!!! I got the starter replaced.

Thanks guys for all your help!

I used a 10" ext. and a regular old rachet. I never could see the bolt until I got it out. I found it by reaching one hand up over the solenoid and putting the socket on it from in front of the starter.

Now that I got it started it smokes like MAD and powers down and dies. I read a recent post from a guy in Cali that is having a similar prob. I think I may have air in my system...I'll check that first and if that's not it I will check the fuel pump.

Is this a good way to proceed??? (The smoke is mostly white with a touch of blue)

HEY...anyone in the Portland (Oregon) area that would be willing to come take a look...I'll buy the beer.

 

Isnt' that the truth.