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Hey guys I have a few questions regarding the axle swap on an '86 F250. My IFS has been inadequately running a set of 39" M/T's for 5 years and I think a Dana 60 conversion would be the best way to eliminate the violent vibration in the truck at certain speeds/road conditions and generally make it much more dependable.
If anyone has done the swap before, I would appreciate any advice you may have on how to make this job go as smoothly as possible. Can I use the same leaf springs/shocks/driveshaft as with the Dana 44?
Also I just received prices from a salvage yard for the parts. They can offer me a complete front D60 (hub to hub) and a complete full floater rear for $1600 delivered. I don't know if this is a good deal or I should haggle a little.
Hi, doesn't your f250 have a full floater in it now??? Mine has a full floater in the rear and a dana 50 in front but 1600 for both rears sounds really high to me. I would expect to pay about $250 each for them $200 if I picked them up but I don't know the price of used parts where you are. John
My 250 does not have a full floater in the rear. There were two versions of the 250, light duty and heavy duty. The light duty (mine) has a Dana 44 and a semi floater. Most of the prices I've seen for these axles have been over $1000 from anywhere in the U.S. I've thoroughly searched the internet. A Dana 60 monobeam front tends to be a rare item and salvage yards know it. I would love to find a better deal, I just don't think one exists.
I would like to replace both in the truck just so everything is matched up. I have a few days to make the decision on these axles, so any more input would be great.
My dad bought rears for his f350 because someone had removed the front axles and lost them so he bought a matched set of rears full floater 10.25 3.91 gear and dana50 independent front and only paid $300 for both. where are you located I'm in southern New Jersey outside of atlantic city and we can get those rears cheaper than 1600 My dad would probably sell his truck for 1600 with a diesel. John
Forty,
Small world. I live in North Jersey. I even spend my summers about 30 minutes from Atlantic City. It sounds like you got a good deal on those parts. The only problem is that I will need a Dana 60 axle, not the IFS Dana 50. The truck needs to go to a solid axle (the monobeam piece that is on F350's) and ditch the IFS. I think that's what drives the prices up. But if you have any connections to places that might supply these axles at better prices, I'd definitely look into it.
South Jersey is usually a better place for used parts than up here near the city anyway. What town are you from?
monsterf250, I dont know why the independent front wont work for you I have 33's on mine but I will look around for you and see what I can locate I live in Brigantine. there are quite a few junkyards around so I will check and see what they have are you looking for any special gear? Or anything in a solid axle.
John
Gentlemen, if you're surprised by the high cost of Dana 60 Monobeams, thank your local, rockcrawling Jeeper. They, also know a good thing when they find them.
monsterf250 there is a good article in the tech section of this web site covering the very thing you want to do. If I remember right I think they put Detroit Lockers in both rear ends.
Those prices were right about what I figured they would be. But Forty, I'll take a better deal if I can find it. I checked out that tech article and have exchanged e-mails with the writer. There was a lot of info on the swap.
I ran into some confusion with a possibility of the salvage axle being pre-86. Some said I couldn't use it.
Does anyone know the difference between the old and new style Dana 60?
The earlier Dana 60's have what is known as a steering cap. Under it is a compression spring, gasket, and king pin. It's a greaseable bearing cap. The later version doesn't have this 4-bolt cap. It's a pressed in ball joint over the king pins. There might be a slight difference in the spring perch widths, with the earlier years being narrower. The tag, on the axle should give the year of manufacture, but keep an eye out for bent or cracked tubes and housings. Also, get all of the steering gear, spring clamps, tracking bar, and it's anchor to the crossmember when shopping for parts. Don't forget the swaybar and dogbones if you enjoy smooth cornering. There's a great article on this conversion in the tech sections. Good luck and happy hunting!
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