I am currently looking for a good all around motor oil, I am on a budget and need something I can run in all of my vehicles to keep backstock to a minimal.

I was running Havoline F1 oils until I got too cheap. I tried Super Tech, and my engine (96 Ranger 2.3) seemed to like it. Next was the filter, ran Fram from age 14 to 19, then tried Super Tech (again to save money). This filter makes my valves rattle a litte, but oil pressure actually increased slightly in my 84 Ranger 2.8 (after 1200 miles on oil change pressure stayed constant).

My current DD is a 04 kia Rio 5spd, its been ST since mile 605.3. Today, I changed the oil at 22,580, it was black and took 4 runs 1 qt at at time for about 2 min each to clean the engine out.

I bought the car new on 5 June 2004 with 174 miles. I also noticed that the oil seemed to get darker since I started using it 4 years ago. I had 1 qt left over from 2001, when I looked at it, it was definatly lighter in color than the new stuff. Should I change brands? Is it something to be consirned about? Could it just be something to meet the new standards? I know that just rescently (past 6 mo) ST reformulated their oil to stay current with mfg warranty specs, could this have to do with the discoloration?

OK, now the real question.
What is a good all aroun oil for numerous vehicles? I want only 1 type (brand), viscosity can vary (I dont mind stocking 5/30, 10/30, 20/50). The oil will be for the following vehicles:

04 Kia Rio - Import 4 cyl 5 spd - Commuter (40 miles each way)
96 Ranger - 2.3l DP 5 spd - Commuter (25 miles each way)
84 Ranger - 2.8l 5 spd - Play/Back-up
84 Ranger - 5.0 carb c-5 4x4 - self explanitory
72 F100 Custom cab - NOW 302 3 spd; Later 351W SMOD - strictly play
78 Dodge D100 Club Cab - 318 727TF - Tow/work truck
possibly van, full size 4.9 or 5.0 auto conversion

Is there any oil that can fit the bill? I am on a budget, so cost WILL be an issue!

I appreciate any information or further comments.
Thank you

 

the st is good but don't run it past 3,000 in you kia how many miles was on the oil

 

Just my opinion based on my experience changing my own oil in several vehicles over the last 25 years in the deep South.........I use the manufacturers recommended weight and buy a top name brand dino oil which is on sale and a good quality filter, ie; Motorcraft, etc. and OCI of 3000 - 5000 miles. Works for me, saved $$, no oil related problems, ever.

 

I never had any problems until rescently. It seems most, if not all, oil manufacturers reformulated their oil, probably for the EPA or something.

I ran the ST for 4500 miles. Kia says 7500 std duty, 5k severe duty.

ST makes a good filter. Top quality parts, some of which some OEMs dont even use.

I have heard the color doesnt matter, but when it is black, it is full of dirt, correct? The ST has been coming out a DARK red, not black. Until the last oil change - about 5k, 500 miles over the usual.

I am having no problems, just dont want to. I know quakerstate is iffy. Used it once, ran engine for one day, then changed the oil. My pressure was down, the valvetrain rattled like a Mack, and the water temp was up noticably-not overheating though.
I always did good with Havoline, just tried something cheaper. How about synthetics? are they worth the extra expense? If they would go for 7500, with a filter change at about 3k to 3500, I may be interested.

Thats it for now, sure I will come up with something later though.

 

OK, just finished my research, seems ST is made by Pennzoil-Quakerstate and their filters are made by Champoin Laboratories-a reputable international filter manufacturer

 

Shell owns Pennziol-quakerstate, p-q makes slick 50. Hummmmm.....

Thats confusing. I have had bad experiences with quakerstate, some people I know have had bad luck with pennziol. (Well, actually everyone I know that used them said it was a 1 time thing, a Learning Experience.) Slick 50 has a bad name, I get kinda iffy just knowing they all come from the same company. But Shell makes Rotella T, and almost every truck driver I know of swears by it. This is all confusing.

How do I know what is a good name brand oil and who really makes it?!

What is all of those numbers on the web sites? What do I look for to get best startability and economy? what is the best oil for the money? I know what synthetics are....kinda. What is their real world advantage? I dont want to void my warranty on the Kia. In fact, the warranty was what I paid 7500 dollars for.

anyone ever been to BobIsTheOilGuy.com? I heard about this site earlier today, and everyone seems to take his advice.

OOOHHH!!! My head hurts.

 

I'm not quite sure what you mean it too 4 runs to get all the oil out? Could you please elaborate?

There are many people on here who run supertech consistently and have never had oil problems.

 

i will replace filter, then run the engine at idle for one or two minutes with only 1 qt of oil to flush out the engine. drain the quart, watching the color, and determine if the engine is clean. Personally, if there is enough dirt in the oil to discolor it within 2 minutes of idle, it is fair insurance to get it out of there.

In high school, our shop teacher said if it HAS to be flushed, run clean, cheap oil through (1qt @ a time) until it comes out clean.

Be sure engine is at operating temp so it will crank @ low idle, the single qt should be enough to provide suffecient oil pres at idle if filter is pre-lubed. True, it will cost an extra oil change, but you know the engine is clean. Best of all, no harsh chemicals get inside your engine.

 

I have never herd of that idea but I'm pretty sure its not good. Starting an engine with 20% of its oil is asking to damage the bearings.

 

well, on the imports, its 35%. I first did it on an 84 2.8l V6, at only 17% capacity, I was sceptical, but watching the guage confirmed that there was enough oil to not allow cavitation. REMEMBER, slow idle. Thats around 500-850 RPM. (Thats only about 12-15% engine RPM.) On EFI engines, I usually use 1.5 qts at a time b/c they rev when cranked.

I will not purchase a vehicle w/o an oil pres guage. The exception was the Kia, but I did have the dealership install a set of guages. (Just to keep Kia happy about the warranty.) Even my 96 Ranger got the old school conversion so I could see that I TRUELY have oil pressure.

 

I agree with BlueRanger94. Doesn't sound like a good idea. Just change your oil according to the owner's manual or a little sooner if it makes you more comfortable. You can get a 5qt. container of Havoline for $6.60 at Wal-Mart and a Motorcraft filter for $2.77. That's a great value. I use Havoline, Castrol, Motorcraft, & Valvoline and have never had any problems. I try not to get caught up in a lot of details of speculating on the different oils and filters. Just find out what works and stick with it.
Synthetics have their place, but not necessary for my vehicles in Mississippi.