Distributor
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From: Durham
Distributor
I need some opinions. I just went through sorting out an ignition problem and tracked it down to a faulty magnetic trigger in the distributor. I replaced the distributor with the stock Motorcroft unit, but in my reading to find out the problem, I ran across stats that I checked against my stock distributor. First, I read that full advance should be no more than about 35 deg and that you should be at full advance by around 3000 rpms. I checked mine and found that I had a full 50 degree of advance at 3000, and there is no way of adjusting the advance!! Also, my dist cap fits loose and rubs against the rotor which makes me believe that the firing would be less than consistent. I've checked some aftermarket distributors and I'm looking at MSD (I have their 6A ignition box). MSD has two distributors, one without a vacuum advance and one with. Both have the adjustable springs, wieghts, and stops to control the amount of advance and the rpm range. What are your thoughts? Do I really need the vacuum advance? Has anyone else experienced a total advance of 50 degrees across their rpm range? What are your thoughts and advice?
Thanks,
'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik
Thanks,
'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,172
Likes: 4
Distributor
Steve ,
50 Deg does seem like a lot ...Most engines live in the 20 to 30 deg range . And yes you do need the timing to advance as the engine increases rpm's . Because the internal parts are moving so quickly , the spark has to be there ahead of time in order for the fuel/air mixture to ignite when all the valves are closed . With the TFI distributors Octane rods are used to adjust the timing advance ...they are basically different length , flat metal rods that either increase or decrease the timing advance . Hope this helps .
Paul
50 Deg does seem like a lot ...Most engines live in the 20 to 30 deg range . And yes you do need the timing to advance as the engine increases rpm's . Because the internal parts are moving so quickly , the spark has to be there ahead of time in order for the fuel/air mixture to ignite when all the valves are closed . With the TFI distributors Octane rods are used to adjust the timing advance ...they are basically different length , flat metal rods that either increase or decrease the timing advance . Hope this helps .
Paul
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From: Durham
Distributor
I know that the distributor has to advance, but I can control the advance mechanically with springs and bushings. I was just wondering what the advantages/disadvantages would be to also using a vacuum advance. I can get a distributor with or without the vacuum advance.
'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik
'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik
New User
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4
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Distributor
Hi slikness......I seen on an earlier post where you were having problem with your rear tank reading
empty all the time. Did you ever have that problem resolved and what did you find was
the problem. I see where most replies indicated a bad ground. I have a '91 and this
problem started on mine with the last fill-up I did. Your reply would be appreciated
empty all the time. Did you ever have that problem resolved and what did you find was
the problem. I see where most replies indicated a bad ground. I have a '91 and this
problem started on mine with the last fill-up I did. Your reply would be appreciated
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 656
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From: Gravel Switch, KY
Distributor
Slik,
You need the vacuum advance for economy reasons on the street, just ask any distributor dealer or manufacturer.
I bought a reman. Duraspark 1977 vintage (single vac not dual) for my truck and it had about 50 degrees of vacuum advance. I bought one of Cranes adjustable vacuum advance kits and solved the problem. The kits also include weights and springs to customize the mechanical advance. I think the setup works great and is alot less expensive than the MSD distributors.
DannyP
89 F-150 4x4 former EFI I-6 now carbed 351W, Edelbrock heads,cam,intake,carb.
MSD 6A, ZF, Sterling 10.25 with 3.55L's.
You need the vacuum advance for economy reasons on the street, just ask any distributor dealer or manufacturer.
I bought a reman. Duraspark 1977 vintage (single vac not dual) for my truck and it had about 50 degrees of vacuum advance. I bought one of Cranes adjustable vacuum advance kits and solved the problem. The kits also include weights and springs to customize the mechanical advance. I think the setup works great and is alot less expensive than the MSD distributors.
DannyP
89 F-150 4x4 former EFI I-6 now carbed 351W, Edelbrock heads,cam,intake,carb.
MSD 6A, ZF, Sterling 10.25 with 3.55L's.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
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From: Durham
Distributor
I've never checked the problem with the rear tank gas gauge. I just run it dry and switch to the front tank. I should take a look though and if I find anything, I'll let you know.
'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik
'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik
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Thread Starter
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From: Durham
Distributor
I read some good articles on vacuum advance. If I can find them, I'll post where they are. You can't read total advance with the vacuum hooked up because there is no load on the engine. Now if you hook up some type of timing device that you can read while you're running down the road.......
I put a new MSD distributor w/o vacuum advance on my son's pickup. It was great, we designed our own vacuum advance curve including total advance and it really runs nice. We're not as concerned about economy with his truck as we are about gettin down the 1/4 mile as fast as we can. He's got a Ch##y S10 with a 350 and we think we're pushing about 350 hp. No A/C, no heater, no power steering, no radio. If it doesn't make it go faster, we don't need it!!!
'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik
I put a new MSD distributor w/o vacuum advance on my son's pickup. It was great, we designed our own vacuum advance curve including total advance and it really runs nice. We're not as concerned about economy with his truck as we are about gettin down the 1/4 mile as fast as we can. He's got a Ch##y S10 with a 350 and we think we're pushing about 350 hp. No A/C, no heater, no power steering, no radio. If it doesn't make it go faster, we don't need it!!!
'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 656
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From: Gravel Switch, KY
Distributor
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 08-Feb-01 AT 08:40 PM (EST)[/font][p]>[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 08-Feb-01
>AT 11:36 AM (EST)[/font]
>
>Well, I just got sucked in
>to this old post too.
>
oops, You ain't the only one. I don't even think to look at the date most of the time.
DannyP
89 F-150 4x4 former EFI I-6 now carbed 351W, Edelbrock heads,cam,intake,carb.
MSD 6A, ZF, Sterling 10.25 with 3.55L's.
>AT 11:36 AM (EST)[/font]
>
>Well, I just got sucked in
>to this old post too.
>
oops, You ain't the only one. I don't even think to look at the date most of the time.
DannyP
89 F-150 4x4 former EFI I-6 now carbed 351W, Edelbrock heads,cam,intake,carb.
MSD 6A, ZF, Sterling 10.25 with 3.55L's.
