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build for Regular Unleaded??

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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 06:40 PM
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build for Regular Unleaded??

I was going to build my 390 withiut regard for gas mileage. But, I am now wondering what would be the optimum build sheet for use of Regular Unleaded. I would still like to able to pull 5k over mountain passes. What do you guys think? I look forward to seeing your suggestions.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 06:48 PM
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Probably no more than 9.1:1 compression ratio for starters. What is the octane of regular unleaded in your area? Around here it varies from 85.5/86/87
 
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 07:51 PM
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Look into a 428 crank and build a 9.2:1cr 410 motor, the extra torque will pull your trailer better than a 390.

Carl....=o&o>....
 
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 10:36 PM
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I know guys...but I am going to say it anyway. Stock will do that just fine.

Or, install a set of good quality headers, upgrade ignition (no points here), Edelbrock Performer intake manifold, 600cfm carb. Should be good to go.

Of course you have gearing that may need attention. If you have an auto tranny, then you need extra cooling. Brakes need to be good and ready just in case you decide to stop any. etc...etc...etc...

Have fun with!!!

 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by padd54
I was going to build my 390 withiut regard for gas mileage. But, I am now wondering what would be the optimum build sheet for use of Regular Unleaded. I would still like to able to pull 5k over mountain passes. What do you guys think? I look forward to seeing your suggestions.
Well Padd, Unless your just looking to build something....I wouldnt make it a stroker motor...

My Truck...well one of them...but the one I use for towing...A 70 F250,C6 with a Trango shift kit..set on form shift (not hard) Headman 1/7/8 full tube Headers...Holley Vac.Sec. 750cfm, Mild RV cam..Like one over stock,back in 74...an Old Edelbrock intake.. 3:73's in the rear end..Pulling 33" BFG A/T's

I had a 13' Overhead Camper on the back (cant remember the weight) It Pulled a 4500# Boat and trailer....Or the Race car and trailer...Or the race Bikes and trailer..All Over SoCal, Mountains and Deserts..from AZ and Mexico south to Utah North.... I still Only get 10mpg with the truck down to 4400#s now?? the same as I did fully loaded...

And I never had any Problems with it, It never left me out on the road dead !! And it would flatten out some of the Highest Summits in the West Coast!!

Just My Story!! Take it for what you think its worth?? LOL..

Russ
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 09:42 AM
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Thanks guys. Regular gas is 85 octane here. So from you have told me, I would guess that going with hyper-t pistons, bored 30-40 over, port/polish heads, 901 crane cam with new springs/lifters, RPM intake and Holley 600 cfm carb, with headers and dual 2 1/2 inch exhaust should do the trick. Would there be a niticeable difference with 89 octane for the times I towed over 85 octane?
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 09:50 AM
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As long as the pistons you are after are the 390 car units, you should be good to go. I think the 85 would even be OK as a daily driver, but you will definitely want to run a test tank...

--Mike
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 10:08 AM
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Oh yea, I forgot to add that I have the New Process 4 spd with 3.54 rear end. Anyone know who makes a limited slip and what is involved with added this?
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 11:21 AM
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If he is going to run 390 car pistons (same as 360 pistons) then he will probably need to go with some bigger chambered heads like the C1/C4AE to get the compression down to around 9.1:1 This is all dependent on deck clearance, head chamber volume, head gasket thickness and bore I believe. If he is going to run something like C8/D2 heads then he would probably want to go with a little bigger cam (as far as duration and overlap go) to bleed off some cylinder pressure to keep it from pinging and detonating.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 12:24 AM
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Kieth Black makes a set of Hyper pistons for the 390 that when zero decked and a little shaving off the heads will be right on 9:1. I'm just breaking in a motor now with a very similar build to what you're planning.

If you're going with a full limited slip you'll have to remove your ring gear off the open carrier and put it on the limited slip carrier. Then you'll have to check/adjust the ring and pinion which can be very difficult if it's your first time. Also, if you've got a Dana 60 I "think" you need a case spreader to pull the carrier out.

You could go with a simple locker that replaces just the spider gears. This can be done by just removing the differential cover and a few hours time. I've heard good and bad about these, usually pretty harsh locking action and can be dangerous towing on slick roads.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 09:15 AM
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I like 9.5, Silvolte 1130's with moly rings and Iron heads. Loves 87 octane, gallons of it!
 
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jstandle
You could go with a simple locker that replaces just the spider gears. This can be done by just removing the differential cover and a few hours time. I've heard good and bad about these, usually pretty harsh locking action and can be dangerous towing on slick roads.
I have a set of those in my jeep. A Powertrax by lock-rite. It works great, but it lets the spidergear shaft move about 10 degrees each direction, so it adds alot of driveline slop, about equil to a busted U joint. Companies like Sunray specilize in ford 9' rearends, and should sell a large aray of lockers, spools, and limited slip carriers for your axle. If you have a Dana44 or Dana60, you could opt for something like an ARB air locker, or an OX locker. Both are manualy shifted, and work as an open carrier when disengaged
 
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