I Have A 1988 F250 With A Fuel Injected 302. I Have Had A Whole Bunch Of Problems With It And I Think It Would Be Cheaper To Just Swap The Engine. I Want To Get Rid Of The Fuel Injection And Run A Carb. Do I Have To Do Something Special With The Electronics Or Can I Just Put My New Engine In And Tear All The Electrical Out? Would It Be Easier To Stay With The Fuel Injection? Please Post Some Ideas.

 

You can tear most of the EFI, the computer, etc, out.

However, why not troubleshoot what you have? EEC's provide codes to indicate what is wrong, and from there you can make a determination what exactly is wrong and if its worth spending the money to replace said items.

 

I agree with Frederic - Ford's EFI is not that hard to troubleshoot, and runs great when it's right.

If you go back to a carb, you'll have problems passing emissions if they have them now or ever have them in your area. You'll also get worse gas mileage.

The amount of work that you'll go through getting all the carb stuff working right is a lot more than just fixing what's there. It almost always is.

 

Give us a list of your codes and what's it doing. Maybe some can help you. Do you know how to check for trouble codes?

 

The Problem Im Having With The Truck Is I Cant Get It To Start. The Timing Was Way Off When I Bought The Truck But I Got That Fixed And Replaced The Timing Chain. It Ran Great For About 3 Months Then It Gradually Got Harder To Start. At First I Had To Pour A Little Gas Into The Intake To Get It Started Then It Would Run Fine For A Few Days Then Id Have To Do The Gas Thing Again. About A Month Of That Went By, Now I Have To Do It Everytime To Get It Started. I Replaced Both Of The Relays Attached To The Air Cleaner, The Internal Fuel Pump, The External Fuel Pump, The Fuel Pressure Regulator, The Fuel Filters, And I Installed A New Ecm. Im Getting Fuel Pressure At The Fitting On The Fuel Rail (i Dont Know The Actual Pressure, Im Getting A Gauge Tomorrow, But It Squirts Out Of The Fitting Pretty Good) Someone Who Responded To A Previous Post Suggested I Replace The Ignition Module, Which I Am Also Going To Do Tomorrow, But I Know Im Getting Spark Because Once It Starts It Runs Normally After It Warms Up. I Ran Out Of Ideas And Figured Replacing The Engine Would Be The Easy Way Out But If You Guys Have Any Suggestions Ill Try Em Out. I Dont Have Any Codes Either, No Code Reader, I Probaly Should Of Started There.thanks For Everyones Help!!

 

Code readers (the cheap kind) are nothing more than a lightbulb in a plastic box, with spades that plug into the EEC connector on the firewall. $15 at any auto store. You don't need those fancy $300 units unless you really want to dig in deep into the fuel injection computer. They are more helpful, but for what you are trying to do a blinking light bulb is more than enough.

Here are instructions on how to run a self test, jump the two connectors as per the instructions, then go into your cab and count blinks with the engine light. Very easy.

 

Will Do. Ill Post The Codes Tomorrow. Thanks For Your Help!

 

I Still Havent Had The Time To Run The Codes, But I Did Pull My Dip Stick Just To Look While I Was Staring Thoughtlessly At My Engine And Found That There Is A Significant Amount Of Rust On The Dip Stick And The Oil Appeared To Have Water In It (grey In Color). I Think Im Just Going To Overhaul The Engine, It Has Over 150,000 Miles On It And Im Sure They Were Ruff Miles. I Bought It Used From A Guy I Know Who Owns A Golf Course Construction Company, He Used It As A Site Truck. Anyways, Thanks Everyone For The Help. Im Sure Ill Need More, This Will Be My First Complete Overhaul.