Rear parking brake cable issues, HELP!!!
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 2
From: Parkville, MO (KC)
Rear parking brake cable issues, HELP!!!
OK, my parking brake is not the greatest. I had read somewhere along the way that cleaning and oiling the rear (and front) cables might help.
So I tore down the brakes in the rear, but I am confused -- the ***** on each end of the cable are swaged (crimped, whatever you want to call it) on. No way can you get that core out without ruining it. I wanted to remove the cable (jacket and core both) and soak the whole thing and try to get some of the old grease out -- but the little "fingers" that hold the one end in place at the drum backing place, those suckers are a real bugger to get out. Is there some trick? I had to just leave the cable in place.
So I chucked each end of the cable into my drill and "spun" some oil down into the cable as best I could. It did seem looser, but I really would have like to get some of the old grunge out.
It did seem that the cable wasn't so very sticky to start with. Which makes me wonder if the bigger problem with the parking brakes is just a poor design from Ford. There must be a reason why they changed them to foot pedal operated. I have heard of guys changing over to the foot pedal, but I don't want that either.
Thoughts? Ideas?
So I tore down the brakes in the rear, but I am confused -- the ***** on each end of the cable are swaged (crimped, whatever you want to call it) on. No way can you get that core out without ruining it. I wanted to remove the cable (jacket and core both) and soak the whole thing and try to get some of the old grease out -- but the little "fingers" that hold the one end in place at the drum backing place, those suckers are a real bugger to get out. Is there some trick? I had to just leave the cable in place.
So I chucked each end of the cable into my drill and "spun" some oil down into the cable as best I could. It did seem looser, but I really would have like to get some of the old grunge out.
It did seem that the cable wasn't so very sticky to start with. Which makes me wonder if the bigger problem with the parking brakes is just a poor design from Ford. There must be a reason why they changed them to foot pedal operated. I have heard of guys changing over to the foot pedal, but I don't want that either.
Thoughts? Ideas?
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,111
Likes: 0
From: Turlock CA
CD
My park brake on my 65 was giving me a problem simular to yours. I went through the same process of cleaning the cables and lubing. I found one wheel holding alot better than the other and the one that wasn't holding the cable was moving more than twice as far as the wheel that was holding. What I found was the brake that wasn't holding and was giving a lot more movement was due to the adjusters not working on one wheel. I removed the adjuster on the bottom cleaned the threads and lubed with anti seeze and re-adjusted the brakes and now both work the same and if the park brake is set you have a hard time moving the truck in granny. So when they work right they work good. I'm a average size man 6' 220 pounds so I don't think that has anything to do with it. My dad who drove the truck befor me was only 5'5" 190 pounds and he also had no problem with setting the park brake.
Good luck
jd
My park brake on my 65 was giving me a problem simular to yours. I went through the same process of cleaning the cables and lubing. I found one wheel holding alot better than the other and the one that wasn't holding the cable was moving more than twice as far as the wheel that was holding. What I found was the brake that wasn't holding and was giving a lot more movement was due to the adjusters not working on one wheel. I removed the adjuster on the bottom cleaned the threads and lubed with anti seeze and re-adjusted the brakes and now both work the same and if the park brake is set you have a hard time moving the truck in granny. So when they work right they work good. I'm a average size man 6' 220 pounds so I don't think that has anything to do with it. My dad who drove the truck befor me was only 5'5" 190 pounds and he also had no problem with setting the park brake.
Good luck
jd
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,068
Likes: 168
From: Central Texas
"...those suckers are a real bugger to get out. Is there some trick?" Yep, here's what has worked for me.....
Use a deep 9/16"(I think, could be a 1/2") socket. Slide it down the cable over the "fingers", the socket will put the squeeze on the fingers and you can pull the cable through the hole.
Use a deep 9/16"(I think, could be a 1/2") socket. Slide it down the cable over the "fingers", the socket will put the squeeze on the fingers and you can pull the cable through the hole.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 957
Likes: 3
From: Winchendon MA
I've used the hose clamp like banjo.
To lube new cables i do it this way.
1) Fill grease gun with new tube. you use a lot!.
2) Remove zerk fitting end from gun so you just have straight 1/8 tread.
3) get a short (~5 inch) of 3/8 hose. or what will fit as below over the cable end.
4) Boil a cup of water soak hose end in it. when ply-able force hose over end of the brake cable and clamp around the end with hose clamp now put the other end over the grease gun and clamp.
5) PUMP a way push the cable back in and pump more as the thing fills with grease the inner cable will push out so keep an eye on it.
6) pump until you have clean grease with no air coming out.
This keeps the water and salt out for years of good service.
44Dwarf
To lube new cables i do it this way.
1) Fill grease gun with new tube. you use a lot!.
2) Remove zerk fitting end from gun so you just have straight 1/8 tread.
3) get a short (~5 inch) of 3/8 hose. or what will fit as below over the cable end.
4) Boil a cup of water soak hose end in it. when ply-able force hose over end of the brake cable and clamp around the end with hose clamp now put the other end over the grease gun and clamp.
5) PUMP a way push the cable back in and pump more as the thing fills with grease the inner cable will push out so keep an eye on it.
6) pump until you have clean grease with no air coming out.
This keeps the water and salt out for years of good service.
44Dwarf
FTE Legend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 53,990
Likes: 2,398
From: NY and VA
You know, I might be dating myself.. but I remember when parking brake cables had grease fittings on them. This worked ok until someone used an air powered grease gun, and filled up the brake drum. I usually use a 1/2 - 9/16 box end wrench to release the fingers on the cable.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 2
From: Parkville, MO (KC)
I like 44 dwarfs idea -- but I think I will soak the old cables in something flammable for a while, and then force solvent down them via the hose and try to clean out as much of the old crap as possible, then re-grease.
New ones are like $30 each, but my old ones are not really in that bad of shape, and I am distrusting of throwing out anything from my old truck that can be repaired or rejuvenated. I'll have the old ones working after $70 worth of trouble!!!!
I *thought* of the hose clamp idea on my own last night, but didn't have the right size clamp laying around. Good to hear it will work. May just try a 1/2" wrench, or socket.
Thanks fellas.....
New ones are like $30 each, but my old ones are not really in that bad of shape, and I am distrusting of throwing out anything from my old truck that can be repaired or rejuvenated. I'll have the old ones working after $70 worth of trouble!!!!
I *thought* of the hose clamp idea on my own last night, but didn't have the right size clamp laying around. Good to hear it will work. May just try a 1/2" wrench, or socket.
Thanks fellas.....
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 556
Likes: 0
From: Ridgeway, Virginia
The cable housings are woven steel strands. As far as I know there is no rubber involved so what I do is grab a can of good spray lubricant like WD-40 and soak the length of the cables. You can see it soak right in. Don't forget the front cable and grease the pull lock mechanism under the dash.
Great ideas on releasing the spring lock mounts. Things to remember.....
Great ideas on releasing the spring lock mounts. Things to remember.....
Last edited by GregTruck; Mar 30, 2005 at 10:21 PM.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Greenville, SC
I recently replaced my rear parking brake cables with new ones. The old ones were beyond repair, and I haven't had much luck finding a good salvage yard nearby. Anyway, the new cables are pretty nice.
After installing, my parking brake works, but it is pretty hard to pull it out to engage the brake shoe. It helps to pull the hand brake while also pressing hard on the foot brake. It seems that the parking brake lever/adjuster (that connects the front hand brake cable to the rear brake cables) doesn't really have enough leverage to pull the rear cables as tight as I'd like them...
I can only pull my parking brake out about 3 or 4 "clicks" (with considerable effort), if the adjuster is set so that the rear cables have no slack without the brake engaged.
After installing, my parking brake works, but it is pretty hard to pull it out to engage the brake shoe. It helps to pull the hand brake while also pressing hard on the foot brake. It seems that the parking brake lever/adjuster (that connects the front hand brake cable to the rear brake cables) doesn't really have enough leverage to pull the rear cables as tight as I'd like them...
I can only pull my parking brake out about 3 or 4 "clicks" (with considerable effort), if the adjuster is set so that the rear cables have no slack without the brake engaged.
New User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix
Rear parking brake cable help
Good afternoon group,
When I adjust the parking brake cable, I always pull the brake handle two clicks.
Then adjust the cable until the brake shoes are snug (not tight) against the drums. That way when you release the handle the shoes don't drag against the drums. You can usually pull the handle about four clicks to tight. If the shoes are adjusted properly in the drums to start with it should kill the motor in first gear. Has all ways worked well for me. Your results may vary. Have a great day!
Grover Atwood
McNary61
65 F100 short bed
When I adjust the parking brake cable, I always pull the brake handle two clicks.
Then adjust the cable until the brake shoes are snug (not tight) against the drums. That way when you release the handle the shoes don't drag against the drums. You can usually pull the handle about four clicks to tight. If the shoes are adjusted properly in the drums to start with it should kill the motor in first gear. Has all ways worked well for me. Your results may vary. Have a great day!
Grover Atwood
McNary61
65 F100 short bed
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