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The brake light stays on in my 73 all the time. Everything else has been checked and I'm told the pressure regulator is either bad or need to be replaced. I've also been told that ther is a pin on the end of it that should be pulled out when the brakes are bled and then it will recenter itself. I don't have the pin on the end of mine and my brakes are real low. How can this be repaire? I'm afraid if I take it apart it will not be any good and you can;t find new ones very easily. Can you use a generic one like I've seen for race cars and street rods?
Gotta ask this,are you sure it's not the E-brake switch?When did the light come on? Shoe adjustment can cause a low pedal.Normally the "proportioning valve" won't kick unless the system lost pressure (usually from a leak) to the front or rear.
the post is a bit confusing ( sorry ) are you saying the propotioning valve has a part missing ( the pin ). and that after the m/c and booster were replaced the pedal is low or the brakes as in the shoe lining is low? if its the pedal, low all the time or are you saying that it goes down to far before brakes apply. how was the system bled out. was the brake switch checked for adjustment against the arm. was the pedal low before the m/c was replaced? if not was the m/c bled properly before installed if plunger was pumped to far could have damaged the m/c.
According to a picture someone posted on another forum my proportioning valve does'nt have that pin on the end. Can't say what the pedal was like before. Purchased the truck with a bad one and my son picked up the truck and replace the mc before driveng it back home. Oned home replace the booster because of a low pedal. Brakes seem to stop fair but the pedal is very low. Actually the pedal on my 79 is very low also but the brakes work fine. Switch seems to be adjusted properly. As far as the bleeding goes, the previously referred to post had a copy of what I assume was a Ford manuals' directions for bleeding which included holding out the pin on the valve until finished bleeding and then releasing and it would recenter itself. I have no pin. and a very low pedal.
the low pedal itself may be an adjustment on the booster, the instructions that come with the booster should even have troubleshooting information and adjusting procedures which sometimes can include replacing the rod with a longer one or extending it if it can be.
I had similar situation on a previous vehicle. The light would come on and had low pedals no matter how much bleeding. The problem was the rear drums were wore out causing too much travel of the brake shoes and the light would come on or stay on. So have you had the drums and rotors checked and measured?
Just wondering, this is what happened to me one time.
If you end up needing a prop valve, let me know. There is a shop local that specializes in rebuilding brake components. They are also distributors for most major outfits.
They have an 800 number if you want or need it.