Hello All

I am kinda new to the forum, and looking for a bit of advice

I have a 03 F150, 5.4L that I am using to tow a show car (sorry guys, its a chevy). The trailer is a 2002 18' Kaufman with brakes on both axles weighing in at about 2400 lbs, empty. The car is another 2900 lbs - total package about 5300-5500 lbs with spare tire and tools.

A couple of questions:
1. I am pretty much settled on the Tekonsha Prodigy controller but, what is the deal with the Ford supplied pig tail. I understand that the pig tail plugs into the harness under the dash but, I have also been told that I need to install two relays in the distribution box (back up lamp and battery charge). Do these need to be installed even though my trailer break-away battery is not wired into the trailer connector ? And, the trailer does not have back-up lights ??

2. Given that the total package is 5500 lbs, should I be using a weight distributing hitch ?? Or, is the 2 5/16 ball mount sufficient ??

3. What is a good, practical method to determine tongue weight ?? I have heard that 10 % is sufficient but, how do I determine when the car is properly positioned to give me about 500 lbs of tongue weight ?

Thanks in advance !!

 

Billy -

If you order the Prodigy, you can also get a harness with plugs on both ends - no splicing!

Your Owner's Guide should list the relays and their functions in the Power Distribution Box under the hood. You shouldn't need the relays you mentioned, but why wouldn't you want to charge your breakaway battery while driving?

Your hitch should have deadweight and W/D ratings.

www.rverscorner.com/articles/tongueweight.html shows how to measure tongue weight using a bathroom scale.

Steve

 

Well Steina covered most of it. I tow a 6000 trailer and it does seem a little smoother with the "Weight Distrubtion" hooked up. I can compare since I have also "misplaced my bars for the above thing once or twice. I will have to try the bathroom scale site, curious to see how much tongue weight I have.

PS I didnt use any backup fuses and backed up into a snow bank. Pushed the 7-pin up and clipped the brake wire and a few other wires. Got all of the strands except one or two and it shorted out all of the fuses in my panel (6) included the big 30amp and fryed my brake controller. I now have a inline 30 amp on my new brake controller. Fuses are cheaper than brake controllers.

 

Thanks Steina and mlb -

It seems like its a good idea to wire in the break away battery and I'll assume (I know that can be dangerous) that the in 30A line fuse mlb is referencing should be cut into the power feed (red) to the controller.

I understand the bathroom scale method for determining tongue weight and it is fine for something like a travel trailer or maybe a boat (something stationary). I am a little nerveous loading the trailer, then lifiting it off of the ball using only the trailer jack (I believe it has a 2000 lb capacity), then adjusting the position of the car to get the desired loading. Maybe I'm missing something ?? Or, is this just the nature of the beast ?

 

But you should only have 10-15% of your trailer on the tougue. For a safety measure you could use backup bottle jacks at each corner of your trailer to lower it down in conjunction with the trailer jack to get the weight. You could then use a good set of jack stands if you are going to move your vehicle on the trailer or just rehook your truck. Might be more of a pain to rehook the truck but at least it will not go anywhere. Once you find the optimal position mark it with some nice bright orange paint.

Not sure why it still fryed my brake controller when the 30amp was blown. Maybe it fryed the brake controller first then the 30 amp. Not taking any chances this time.

 

Billy -

I'm not sure a fuse would have prevented MLB's problem; I think he caused power to go back up the trailer (blue) brake wire when he shorted everything out, and I don't know of any controller that's protected from reverse voltage. That's also why you should never check the breakaway system by pulling the pin, while the trailer is connected to the tow vwhicle.

Even if you have the tow vehicle and trailer weighed ($7-$10), you'd still have to support it with the jack to get tongue weight; pretty much whatever you feel comfortable with (and use lots of chocks!). Someone makes a ball mount that measures tongue weight, but it's pretty pricey.

Steve

 

i think steina is exactly right. the two warnings the jumped out at me on my new prodigy controler were: DO NOT reverse the voltage, and DO NOT test the breakaway system by pulling the pin if the trailer is connected to the tow vehicle. The directions with the prodigy said BOTH sittuations would result in the destruction of the controler.

 

Boy I will have to avoid backing into those snowbanks. Might have to consider relocating my 7-pin since we have to back up at work. I have also bent my chrome mud flaps. Should send them a bill. Always thought those inline fused worked either way. Learned something new.

 

To all - Thanks for the input.

 

Billyk1,

Steina sated that the custom cord came with his Prodigy however, when I bought mine, the custom harness was an extra cost option. It was around $10 or $11 and well worth it. You have to specify what brand of tow vehicle you have to get the correct cable.

The standard equipment with the Prodigy is a pigtail with a plug that fits the controller. If your truck came with a towing package you will have a pigtail with it that has a plug to fit the female plug under the dash for your controler. You can splice the two pigtails togeter but be advised that it isn't a direct color to color match up. Read and follow the directions carefuly if you go that route. The resulting spliced cable will be about 1 foot long, so if you need it to be longer, you will need additional wire of the correct gauge as well as shrink to cover it.

The optional custom cables are about 3 feet long and reasonably priced if you need the extra length.

Gene

 

Gene W -

In Post #2, I stated you CAN also get a custom harness when you order a Prodigy, not that you DO receive one with the controller for free; guess I'll have to watch my typing next time.

Steve

 

Steina,

Sorry 'bout that ol' rooster. That speed reading class I had in the eigth grade gets me in trouble sometimes.

Gene

 

Gene -

Ol' rooster is right!!! 62 and countin'...........

Steve

 

Hi Gene & Steina !!

I ordered a Prodigy and the "optional" harness (#3035) yesterday from RJays Speed and Performance Center, they had the best price I could find $99.95 for the controller and $8.99 for the harness. I should have it in hand by Friday.

Thanks.

 

That is an EXCELLENT price! You will be very happy with that controller. I have one myself and set it up in about 3 minutes...if that. Very easy to setup with your trailer type (power and boost settings). I highly recommend this unit to all!