Residual valves?
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,005
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From: Santa Clarita
Residual valves?
I was told you need to put residual valves in the brake lines. A 2 lb valve for the disc and 10lbs for the drum. Is it a good idea to install these in the brake lines even if the master cylinder is mount up on the firewall and not on the frame?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Originally Posted by TBucketJack
Residual valves only need to be used when the master cylinder is lower than the wheel cylinders/calipers.
Vern
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Santa Clarita
Vern - I've never heard of the fixed combination valve? What is that? I hate having to spend the money and installing the residuals valves especially if I don't need them. I was told by several friends, just to install them anyways.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 932
Likes: 9
From: DFW, TX
Ed,
Check out this link to MPBrakes. It shows the typical installs for drum/drum, disc/drum and disc/disc for MC installs on the firewall and under the floor.
http://www.mpbrakes.com/typical.htm
The combination valve Vern is referring to accomplishes the "proportioning" function (front to rear) and maintains the "resisdual" pressure to prevent the mechanical springs from bleeding fluid back into the MC, and you having to "pump" the brakes.
Hope this helps and Good Luck,
Kent
Check out this link to MPBrakes. It shows the typical installs for drum/drum, disc/drum and disc/disc for MC installs on the firewall and under the floor.
http://www.mpbrakes.com/typical.htm
The combination valve Vern is referring to accomplishes the "proportioning" function (front to rear) and maintains the "resisdual" pressure to prevent the mechanical springs from bleeding fluid back into the MC, and you having to "pump" the brakes.
Hope this helps and Good Luck,
Kent
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,005
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From: Santa Clarita
Kent- Great info. I really have to laugh here though, now it's saying I can use a conventional valve, and put a residual valve going to the drum brakes in the rear. ?????????? I've come to the conclusion that there is no standard method of doing brake lines. I think I may just install the residual valves, it can't hurt. Thanks again for the info. If any other knowledgible brake line people are here, I'm still listening.... I found that the 1970 Master cylinder will fit my power booster. Picked up a brand new one a Kragen for $25. plus they'll give me $8 for the core on my single chamber worthless master cylinder. (well worthless to me). I also picked up steel 3/16" line with fittings. 6 footers run about $5.00 each.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Kent beat me to it but he is right on target on the combination valve. My Chrysler T-bar front suspension came out of an 87 Chrysler 5th Avenue and I'm also using the rear end, brake pedal, master cylinder and booster, and the stock combination or metering valve so my brakes should work much as they did in the Chrysler. The only problem I might face with the OEM valve is the brake bias since the truck is much lighter in the rear than the sedan the valve came out of.
Vern
Vern
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Adams,CO.
Low, You do not need the resi valve in any system that has the M/C mounted higher than the wheel cylinders or calipers. The only purpose they serve is stated above. To add if not required is asking for more leaks. I do however believe that the adjustable proportioning valve is a must if using or building a system from un-matched parts. Same applies to a complete system from a donor car with different weight balance than the truck it goes into.
Greatwoods, this can be added to any system even in addition to the factory donor valve. Put one in-line for 48.00 and fine tune for a great difference. Mine will be cable adjustable from the cab for towing and loading. I have done in past as a brake/front end tech.
PS: will put pic in gallery.
Greatwoods, this can be added to any system even in addition to the factory donor valve. Put one in-line for 48.00 and fine tune for a great difference. Mine will be cable adjustable from the cab for towing and loading. I have done in past as a brake/front end tech.
PS: will put pic in gallery.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Santa Clarita
El Cabron, I'll take your advice. I was already sure about putting the proportioning valve in to the drum brakes in the rear, in fact I already purchased a Wilwood adjustable (black) for $40. I'll let you guys know how the brakes work out. Thanks everyone.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
Ed
You'll be fine. It's a non-problem as the guys have told you. Brakes seem to be one of the few forgiving areas we mod on our trucks. Build something similar to a factory configuration and you'll be fine. My truck is a mix and match of Ford and Mopar front brake components. The thing stops just as quick and smooth as my decades newer vehicles. You've got extra insurance with the adjustable proportioning valve. You don't need anything else.
You'll be fine. It's a non-problem as the guys have told you. Brakes seem to be one of the few forgiving areas we mod on our trucks. Build something similar to a factory configuration and you'll be fine. My truck is a mix and match of Ford and Mopar front brake components. The thing stops just as quick and smooth as my decades newer vehicles. You've got extra insurance with the adjustable proportioning valve. You don't need anything else.
