here we go again
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here we go again
well here we are again, truck just quit, no warning, have check and replaced the dizzy mod, put on a new coil, and still no spark, have checked all wires, and i know i am getting fuel, still wont start, please give me ideas, cause i am inches away from selling the thing an being done with it, hopefully you all can stop me from doing that,
chad m.
1968 f100 240ci
chad m.
1968 f100 240ci
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From: Virginia
I just looked up some of your old posts to get me up to speed again on what your situation is. What I have picked up so far is you have:
Changed the carb from 1v to 2v.
Changed the whole ignition system over to duraspark II.
The first thing I would do is get a testlight or voltmeter and check to see if you have voltage on the + side of the coil and the red wire going to the module, with the key in the run position.
I would also double check the black wire going from the module to the distributor. This is the ground for the whole system, and should be bolted firmly inside the dist housing.
I also want to ask you what wire did you use to power the coil +? Did you run your own wire or did you use the factory wire? The factory wire for the old points would have had the resistor in it, while a wire you added may not have a resistor.
Changed the carb from 1v to 2v.
Changed the whole ignition system over to duraspark II.
The first thing I would do is get a testlight or voltmeter and check to see if you have voltage on the + side of the coil and the red wire going to the module, with the key in the run position.
I would also double check the black wire going from the module to the distributor. This is the ground for the whole system, and should be bolted firmly inside the dist housing.
I also want to ask you what wire did you use to power the coil +? Did you run your own wire or did you use the factory wire? The factory wire for the old points would have had the resistor in it, while a wire you added may not have a resistor.
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i used a new wire, all the wire is 14ga, i am going to be working on it tommorrow, will let you know the outcome, i am going to prett;y much seperate all my wires, and look at them, and make very certain that i have them all connected to there right parts, if so, well then,im gonna be at a loss, will let you know how it goes
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Since you ran a new wire to the coil, you may not have used a resistor. This is important, as it keeps the module and the coil from overheating. But if you have just changed the coil and module with good ones, then it should run short term without the resistor.
Take your meter or testlight, and put one lead to ground, and the other side to the - of the coil. When you crank the engine, make sure you see the voltage blink on and off on the negative of the coil.
Take your meter or testlight, and put one lead to ground, and the other side to the - of the coil. When you crank the engine, make sure you see the voltage blink on and off on the negative of the coil.
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well franklin, i pulled the cap off the dizzy, well, now im not happy, the rotor didnt turn as i jumped the starter selinoid, so as far as i know i have to pull the dizzy out and change the gear on the base, but if someone else has another idea, please let me know, i dont want to have to do all that
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well guys upon further inspection, have come to the conclusion, that the timing gear is not working, so i am looking at haveing to pulling it and replacing it, that is all i can think of at this point, motor turns as if its freewheeling, but the cam gear to the dizzy is not moving, so now in in for a whole lot of fun, will keep you informed
chad
chad
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From: Virginia
I have heard of these engines stripping the cam gear(phenolic under the timing cover). So that is a possiblity if the dist gear looks ok. And if the dist gear is stripped, you might want to check the oil pump shaft. If the oil pump locks up, then it usually strips the dist gear.
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well franklin2, i pulled the crankcase cover off today, and over half of the teeth on the cam gear were gone, so i think that is the problem(that is meant to be sarcastic)hopefully will have it rapped up by friday, will let you know how it goes
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well guys, got the motor apart and the new cam gear put on, and the agravating thing is now back together, went to start it up, got the motor to catch, and she died right away, went to restart, and got awnsered with a dead battery, so i must wait till tonight to find out, the wait is killing me, but i think i got it right. so wish me luck
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ouch!
The phenolic cam gear stripped in my '64 Chevy truck, some years ago. I don't remember other specifics, but I pulled the single cylinder head on the straight-six engine and had a "valve job" performed by a machine shop.
Any chance some of your valves got "punched" by pistons, while the cam was non-operational?
Any chance some of your valves got "punched" by pistons, while the cam was non-operational?
Last edited by JohnPeter; Apr 10, 2005 at 09:47 AM. Reason: clarification
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I don't think any of the 300 six style engines where "interference" engines. Meaning the valve train could stop, and the piston would still miss the valve hanging open.
I don't think the old chevy six was an interference engine either. And if it was, you would have bought some valves(old ones bent), not just have them ground.
had a "valve job" performed by a machine shop.