I am trying to replace my rotors on an 83 f150. This is my first time doing this job. It seems like I need to remove the hubs to get the rotors off. I am having a hard time removing the hub. I have taken off the cap, snap ring, and 3 sets of gears. Now it seems like there is a gear that is threaded onto the axle, is that true? Do I need to take off the hubs to get to the rotors? How do I get the hubs off?

Thanks

 

I assume you mean the axle nut ? Yes , It has to be removed before the hubs can be removed . To remove the rotors from the hubs you will have to remove the wheel nut studs , just take a hammer & knock them out . When installing the new rotors make sure you line up the splines of the wheel studs & tap them back in to start them . What I have done to firmly seat them is add a few washers to each stud & use your impact wrench to pull them tight using the wheel nuts , alternate tightening them like you would if you were tightening the wheel nuts when reinstalling the rim .

 

I just got done doing this on my F250. For a long story see page 5(this morning so far) of this part of the list, see F250 Spindle nut removal.

The short story, and I don't know enough detail on your truck but you probably will need to get a special Spindle Nut Socket, most of them are huge sockets with 4 or 6 "fingers" on them that mate to some slots in the spindle nut. Usually can find at bigger auto parts stores and NAPA, costs between $15 and $40 depending on which kind you need. Can't do the job without it. You will need to determine what kind of axle you have. If you have a 4x4 you probably have a Dana 44 type axle, so look for that kind of socket. With that socket you would push in as you remove the nut, that releases pressure on a ratchet mechanism and allows the nut to turn, you will hear the ratchet click, assuming that is the kind of lock you have.

I highly recommend getting a manual(I use a Haynes, which also covers F150 but it's at home) since on some axles the nuts are opposite threaded on each side. On my F250 the rear was left thread on left and right thread on right, but the front Dana 50 axle has a very different lock setup and is normal thread on both sides(not mentioned in the manual). Sooo be sure you know which way to turn.

Be carefull to not scratch the bearings and seal(You probably should replace the seal). Also be ready to catch the outer bearing, it will probably fall out as you remove the hub. I assume you know how to grease the bearings, it should be done if there are any miles on them.

Removing the rotor from the hub is actually easy. I am sure the shop manual says use a press, but I used a big ball peen hammer(as a cushion) with the flat against the stud and a heavy mallet to hit the top of the ball peen, this hopefully avoids munging up the stud. It will take several moderate whacks to get each stud. Then it may take a little wiggling to get the rotor separated from the hub but at least on my F250 it was an easy job.

Also, I highly recommend getting yourself a impact wrench. It will make removing spindle nuts very easy along with any other nut, especially lug nuts. Man, I love my electric one, worked on cars for maybe 30 years and never knew what I was missing until a couple weeks back. Get an adjustable torque one if you can. Kind of a religious experience.

Good Luck, been there, just last week. It ain't hard if you have the tools and know what to do.

Jim Henderson

 

When re-assembling the hub be very careful not to bind the bearings when you tighten the axle nuts. The manual will give you a torque spec for the outer nut. Sometimes tightening to this torque will turn the inner nut enough to bind the bearings. There should be a very slightly noticeable amount of end play after everything is torqued. If the bearings bind the first time you will probably have to loosen the inner nut just a bit and re-torque the outer nut to get the end-play you need. Be patient, the little extra time spent is a lot better than damaged bearings.