Is replacing the waterpump difficult on the 4.0? My mechanic wants 400 for parts and labor ... is that fair or should I attempt it myself?

 

Well I will say the total charge is pretty fair since I have done much easier water pumps in my time plenty of things have to be removed to get this thing off at least on my 96 RWD Aero. Here is what I did as far as I can remember.

Flush the coolant system.

1. Disconnect negative cable at the battery.

2. To provide clearance remove the radiator and then the coolant hoses from the pump.

3. Remove the Fan clutch assembly (you will need a tool for this). On the 3.0 (Left Hand Threads)

4. Remove the belt then loosen the alternator mounting bolts and move it to one side.

On some Aeros you may need to remove the belt tensioner or move the compressor slightly (But don't remove the hoses).

5. Remove the water pump pulley using a chain wrench or what ever you can find to keep the pulley steady and loosen the bolts.

6. Remove the water pump bolts there were 14 on mine I believe be sure to mark where they came from so the same length bolts go back in the same place.

7. Scrape the old gasket off and put a new one on.

8. Bolt the new pump in place the rest is reverse of the removal.

Also don't forget to refill the system and bleed the air .

You can save a decent sum doing it yourself be sure to pick yourself up a Haynes or Chiltons manual and you should be able to handle it.

If these steps make your head hurt better off spending the $400 .

 

4.0L water pumps are much easier to replace than those on 3.0L engine. $400 is totally insane. I wouldn't pay more than $150. Anyway, it all depends on where you live. Down here in Southern CA, there is a lot of competition, so it's cheaper. I have seen timing belts changed for $200, and that's on the high side. Water pumps are much easier.

 

$400.00 must be Dealer? The pump at NAPA or the dealer is $100.00 "I Buy the dealers it has all the parts" So I don't have to add a cavitation plate to make it work right.

It's pretty easy compared to changing plugs and wires. Just clean the front of the engine while its off and use a chase to clean the threads. I would also use some copper coat on the bolts so they don't seize up.

The way I do things is, If it's off clean what you can get at and don't hurry.

 

i've done the water pump on my 91 4.0. how many miles does yours have on it? the more miles the harder it may be to get off. mine had about 165 or 170 thousand miles on it. the clutch fan would not seperate from the water pump shaft, so after cursing at those slim rental tools to hold the pulley and back off the nut, someone on this forum (kenp ithink) suggested removing the whole thing as a unit pump and fan assembly. so you may get into more fun than you think,you can check archives for more info/stories...
i guess the bottom line is do you have the time to...or is it worth 400 to have someone else bust their knuckles. it took me a weekend to get it done and back on the road, also included radiator and alternator replacment though.. i've experienced so many poorly done jobs on cars of mine, that when i can i do all i can myself. i figure at least i will tighten everything correctly and check for leaks before i'm through. its really not a technically hard job.
looks like krankshaft has it all laid out in his note. good luck!! rick

91 aerostar xl ext. aka "the green bean"
214600 miles and going.....

 

Man mechanics must be rip offs in northern NJ I checked after I replaced the pump at the dealer and local mechanics they didn't budge below the $400 mark give or take everything costs more here shouldn't really be suprised though NJs got the highest car insurance rates in the whole country .

 

The pump in my 3.0 was a challenge, but it got done. I am told the 4.0 is easier. Get the Haynes book. If you are going to change out the pump yourself consider also replacing the belts, thermostat, radiator hoses and fan clutch. If these parts have never beed replaced before maybe it is time to do them since you will probably be messing with them on the pump install. During my pump install, I snapped a bolt in the block. I am now told that when you back out the water pump bolts, tap them every few turns to help them dislodge easier. Count the bolts and don't get them mixed up.

 

I disagree that the 4.0 is easier to change than a 3.0. When I redid the the water pump on our 3.0, it was a piece of cake. I did not even require the stupid fan clutch wrench thing, I used a common belt wrench. I did not need to remove the radiator, and the whole thing went extremely well. The only thing I had trouble with, was getting some of the old hoses off the old pump. They had kind of glued themselves on because of their age.

 

The fan came off by using a rubber strap type wrench. Not a problem at all. I had the radiator out at the time to replace it and that gave me a bit more room. As for the hoses, if they're stuck on, use a box knife and make a slit along the hose connection. Then you can pry the hose apart and it should come right off. I used a piece of cardboard and drew a rough drawing of the pump. I then used an awl to punch small holes into it where the bolts went. As I took off each bolt, I put it into the hole corresponding to the pump so as not to mix them up. The bolts are various legnths and can't be interchanged. The heater hose(s) have a snap fit connection on the firewall end. You will need a special tool to remove them. Tool is also available on the web. Heater hoses are kinda pricey thru a dealership. I got Motorcraft replacements by searching the web and the cost was half of what a dealer wanted. As you reassemble the pump, just take one bolt at a time from your improvised box holder and put it into place. While your at it I'd think about the thermostat, and the radiator hoses too. might as well do it right and save yourself more work down the road.
Good Luck..
Keats

 

Thanks Guys for the help ... i may attempt this on my own ... eegads!

 

Don't forget to be carefull with that wire loom in front of the radiator, it needs to be re-attached with more care than a mechanic has. The transmission fluid loop that is 1/2" below it, is hot enough to fry it to ground, and burn-out a few expensive components.