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I have a 2003 CC 4X4 Lariat with 45,000 miles. I put 305.70's on it and the left front barely rubbed the front inner fender liner. I trimmed the molded mudflaps slightly. However, I did not like the nose down look. When measured from the ground to the bottom of the fenderwell, the front was 38 1/4 and the back was 41 1/2. I added a replacement leaf to the front (tapered). Now, the front measures 40 1/2. The truck looks awesome and it cost $127 with centerbolts. Cheap way to level for those wanting to do it. The factory U Bolts worked fine. Drivers side is a little short, but they worked fine.
just wondering are the wheel well opening the correct place to measure for levelness. I was thinking of the best way to determine how to get a good measurement, if the wheel well opening is the way to go than it seems simple enough. do you know what code add a leaf you used, how much did it affect the ride quality.....
Brian,
The top of the wheel well arc is typically the measuring point. Obviously, do your best to measure while on a level playing surface (ie, the same flat ground on all 4 corners and the tire inflation you'll be running with the add-a-leaf kit). It'll give you an accurate enough idea of how much lift you need to level your truck. Most add-a-leaf manufacturers will have kits of various lifts to accomplish what you need. Ride quality will suffer some.
DS
Last edited by DS02F250; Mar 22, 2005 at 08:28 AM.
I do not have the part numbers handy. I got them from a local spring and radiator shop. They were specifically for a SuperDuty and the sticker on them something to the effect of OEM replacement. They are tapered like the factory springs. Ride quality is firmer but not stiff. Before I did this, the front end seemed mushy to me. This is in comparison to the two other SD's I have had which were both gassers. I measured from roughly the center of each wheelwell to the ground. Several people at work noticed it before I even mentioned doing it. Very happy with it.
did you add a leaf to the orginal pack or did you replace the two orginal leaf as well. I have a 04 extended cab short box with the 6.0 liter auto wanted about 2" front lift. did you have to fool with you shocks, steering, or other with the lift. I use this truck for everyday plus I plow snow and carry a salt spreader in the back.
TY
Brian
It was actually easy to change with the exception of aligning the centerbolt with the housing. This is a rough summary of how to change.
1. Remove wheel and place a jackstand under the frame directly behind the rear front spring mount.
2. Lower the jack so it is resting on the jackstand but keep tension on the axle. I also added a second jackstand underneath the front bumper with no weight on it.
3. Remove the shock, swaybar, U-Bolts, and top spring plate on the side you are working on.
4. Grind off the factory clamp holding the leaves together. The new leaf had a new U shaped bracket to secure the leaves
5. Lower the axle and remove the centerbolt. I used a C Clamp to hold the leaves together when I did this. I also used a second floor jack under the rotor right below the wheel studs.
6. Loosen and remove C Clamp
7. Install new leaf under existing leaves for a total of two old and 1 new leaf
8. Use an old bolt to align the holes in the leaves
9. Remove some of the length off of a new center bolt. Using the other floor jack, lift the spring enough to get the centerbolt through the leaves. Tighten the centerbolt and grind off the excess.
10 Using the floorjack under the rotor, jack up the axle until the centerbolt aligns into the pad. This is where I had trouble. I attached a ratchet strap around the wheel stud and front bumper bracket. With another person helping, I turned the steering wheel pulling tension on the axle while he operated the floor jack until it seated.
11. Replace the top spring plate and ubolts. I snugged them up and retightened once finished.
12. Replace shock and swaybar mount and then mount the wheel.
This is a rough step by step. It did not affect the steering in any way and it rides well. I am very pleased with it.
I have a 2003 CC 4X4 Lariat with 45,000 miles. I put 305.70's on it and the left front barely rubbed the front inner fender liner. I trimmed the molded mudflaps slightly. However, I did not like the nose down look. When measured from the ground to the bottom of the fenderwell, the front was 38 1/4 and the back was 41 1/2. I added a replacement leaf to the front (tapered). Now, the front measures 40 1/2. The truck looks awesome and it cost $127 with centerbolts. Cheap way to level for those wanting to do it. The factory U Bolts worked fine. Drivers side is a little short, but they worked fine.
You should never use the old u-bolts over again . The bolts are streched and are torqued to specs.You could end up with a broken bolt and the axel comming loose .Any good spring shop should tell you this when you buy a new spring and most kits come with new u-bolts .You can get away with it but why take a chance for a couple of bucks for new bolts.
Summit Racing has a kit for the Superdutys and comes with a differnt track bar.If the truck is raised higher than stock you will need this to keep the axle centered in the truck.Allso make sure it gets alligment after your done .This will save you money in tires if anything got changed.
Thanks for the advice on the new bolts. I may go back and change them. I disagree on the trackbar change though for simply leveling the truck this way. It sits about the same height as a truck with "X" springs and I dont think Ford uses different track bars. I was going to get an alignment, but the truck tracks perfectly straight. Besides, the ball joints have some slop. I will get to them soon and will definitely get an alignment then.
Thanks for the advice on the new bolts. I may go back and change them. I disagree on the trackbar change though for simply leveling the truck this way. It sits about the same height as a truck with "X" springs and I dont think Ford uses different track bars. I was going to get an alignment, but the truck tracks perfectly straight. Besides, the ball joints have some slop. I will get to them soon and will definitely get an alignment then.
You should only have to change the track bar if you go higher than stock.Summit racing sells a 2" leveling kit and comes with a new track bar bracket.I think your right about Ford using one track bar but not sure.I know when I did mine the old track bar wouldn't connect with out the lower bracket.If you did try to use it it would have moved the front end over about an 1/2 inch.
I wonder the 1/2" that was mentioned was this the reason for the trouble you had getting the spring pack to seat in the housing (center bolt) did you happen take a measurement to see if indeed the axel moved. the radius of the track bar may allow for this amount of movement since the shocks limit the drop of your axel
regards
Could be (track bar) why it didnt line up perfectly. I do know the front end tracks perfectly straight and doesnt wander or pull to one side. I put add a leafs on an 88 Dodge and it did the same thing. The reason I did an add a leaf on the SD was from talking to a gas company guy. He had a F250 with the 5.4. He had the spring shop that I got mine from install add a leafs at all 4 corners so he could put 315's on it to get out to the gas wells. He previously had an HD Chevy and it was helpless in the mud. So, the gas company switched them over to Super Duties. Thanks for all of the feedback on this. It may help someone contemplating add a leafs to see all angles.
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