1. Engine flush! Pour some seafoam into each spark plug hole, replace the plugs, pour some seafoam into the carb, pour some seafoam into the oil, start her up, and suck some seafoam into the manifold from a rubber vacuum line, (if there is any vacuum left). If Seafoam can't straighten out the gummed up cylinders and head works, then maybe it is time to buy an engine stand, and tear her open. I bet if you ran a few cans of seafoam thru the engine you could bust up alot of the sludge and carbon, and restore some compression. Will this truck drive down the road on two cylinders? That is hard to believe, there must be something happeneing in those two so-called dead chambers. If there is absolutely no pressure whatsoever squirt a few tablespoons of 10w Whatever into the cylinder and try again, I hope this isn't a major block or head repair. Good Luck

 

the valve springs are fine we checked that already and yes it will drive on 2 cylinders but at idle it has no compression or not enough to read, we think that one of the hoses could be plugged so were gonna check that out and ill give that seafoam a shot one question where could i get some of that at just a regular parts store we have a napa near by wjoudl the y carry it? Thank you all for your input and keep it comin it is MUCH aprreciated
Thanx
Don

 

I recently bought two cans of seafoam at NAPA. They charged me $6-something per can. I was miffed when I saw it at autozone two days ago for 4.99/can.
Are you running the compression test while the truck is idling,?? I am not sure what you are doing. Pull all the spark plugs out and squirt some 10w30 into the cylinder thru the plug hole, a couple of tablespoons is fine, pull the 12vdc out of the coil so you don't send 20,000 volts to the wrong location, Check the compression with your finger or thumb print over the hole, (((if you have skinny fingers and stick them in too deep you may get hurt!))) your fingertips and own senses are a good tool to use in case the compression testor and fitting isn't working right. Have a helper crank the engine in quick bursts, compression testing should be done carefully and methodically, there is a lot to learn as each upstroke and downstroke of the piston is achieved. You may want to hit your local library for some how to books on basic engine rebuilding and repair. Even the manual that comes with a 20 dollar compression testor should have basic advice on how to read the gauge and what different kinds of flucuations really mean to the mechanic.

If you have two people on the job, try turning the crankshaft with the proper wrench placed on the crankshaft balancer/pulley nut, first, visually check the direction of rotation of the crankshaft balancer when it is running or cranking and rotate it in the same direction by hand. DON"T CRANK AN ENGINE BY HAND UNLESS YOU HAVE DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY. If you go slow and easy and make careful observations of each cylinders performance you can get a better feel of what the internal workings are up to. As ugly as this engine may look and sound, it is(was) a precision piece of machinery. Listen, look and feel while working.

 

alright we will give that a try we didnt performe the test it was actually his dad because he says that the tester was a lil spendy and he didnt want us to mess it up so he did his thing and told us that there was no compression in it 0 nada thing and ill try the seafoam thing out thank ya much

Thanx don

 

Does the Old man know what he is doing? If yes, then Seafoam may be a waste of money if you have exactly zero psi compression in a cylinder. Tell us again, what is the compression in cylinders 1 thru 4

 

yea he knows what hes doin hes sorta genius in my opinion cuz normal people dont work on helicopter engines and car engines and just about any kind of engine, so i know that the 1 and 2 have no compression and i dunno about the others he didnt tell us,
thanx
don

 

I used to own a '75 luv PU. They tend to burn valves and will blow an ocassional head gasket. Another thing to watch on pre '78 models is the carb. screws will tend to vibrate loose. I am talking about the ones that hold the carb. together, along with the mounting nuts.

They ride like a log wagon. The idle arms wear and make them drive bad, and are hot as all get out inside in the summer.

With all this being said, I liked mine, and it wasn't a bad truck. You can change a head pretty easy. A couple of hours to take it apart if you are in no hurry, one hour or less if you're in a rush.