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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 10:19 AM
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Battery Light

I have a 1996 Explorer 4.0 with an Auto 2wd without power windows and locks. The battery idiot light came and the alternator began to make a worn out bearing noise. I checked the voltage at the battery when the truck was running It was about 11.4 volts so I figured the alternator was bad. I replaced the alternator. I also checked the water level in the battery and it was very low it took about 33 FL OZ to refill. After the replacement Im still having the same problems with the battery light on and low charging voltage at the battery 11.4 volts while the truck is running.
When the truck is running I turn on the headlights and dont notice any dimming of the lights or anything out of the normal. Im going to have the battery tested to see if that could be the problem. Any ideas what I can check next ? Thanks in advance
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 10:23 AM
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Test the battery with a load tester. Sounds like you had to add a lot of water to top it off. Were the plates in the battery exposed(water level was below the top of the plates)? If so, I suspect the battery is shot. Have you had to hot shot/jumper the battery?
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 10:37 AM
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No jump start neeeded it starts without a problem. Just a few minutes ago I disabled the ignition coil on did a 15 second starter crank test. The voltage is at about 11.8 after resting for about 10 minutes so it is a little low. Will a low or dead cell in the battery prevent the alternator from putting out 15 or 16 volts to the battery on this typ of vehicle ?
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 10:55 AM
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I swapped out the battery same problem running voltage 11.8 is the voltage regulator inside the ALT or is it external ? How do I check ALT voltage output at the ALT ? Maybe my new ALT is bad also ?? Im sorry for all the questions but my repair manual is packed so I dont have a reference.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 07:56 PM
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Yes, the alternator has an internal regulator. Sounds like it could be the alternator ( I have gotten new ones that were bad, but not too often). It could also be a loose or dirty connection. To check voltage at the alternator, follow the wire from the starter relay on the fender to the alteranator. That post is the + post and it should have at least 14 V when running. I haven't changed one on a newer explorer, but on my father-in-law's ranger, when we put on a new alternator, it came with a plug and we had to cut the wires and replace the plug. It said that the terminals could become loose causing a bad connection and fire hazard if we re-used the old plug.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 09:03 PM
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I took the new alternator off and had it tested at the auto parts store and it was fine. I didnt have to cut any wires all I did was plug it in. I did check the wires from the ALT to the starter relay and I didnt find any loose connection or damaged wires. Im not sure but Im suspecting the ALT is not getting a signal from the computer to start charging the battery ???? Does the computer tell the ALT when and how much juice to produce ??? Could this be the problem Thanks for all of your help













i
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 09:55 PM
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When the truck is running and I remove the positive from the battery the truck dies
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 11:12 PM
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The ALT gets it's info from the battery. It really shouldn't run with the batt terminal off. It is a curent device, and not a voltage device. Still sounds like a bad connection, or bad batt, or ??? What happen when you run the engine, meaqsure voltage, then turn headlights on and measure voltage?
 
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 03:06 PM
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Make sure your battery connections are clean and free of corrosion. Also put some grease on the terminals or go to a parts store and get a packet of battery terminal protectant.
You also might want to try putting a battery charger on the battery for about 10-15 minutes to add more charge. Then test to see what happens.
Another thing you could try is temporarily swapping batteries with someone and give that a shot.
I all fails, I'd bet the battery took a dump.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 03:11 PM
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Removing a battery cable when the car is running is not a good thing to do. I've heard that on some cars the airbags may be deployed as a result of this. I doubt if it's very good for the electronic components either. Just my 2 cents...
 
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 07:33 PM
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Have you confirmed the continuity of the wire to the alternator? As others have said, the alternator simply charges to a controlled voltage by supplying enough amperage. The voltage regulator (inside the alternator) clamps the amp supply when the volts reach the preset level. That said, there is a field signal that must be supplied in order for the alternator to be able to generate electical current. Be sure to check all of the wires going to the alternator. You may want to look up a schematic for your circuit to see what junctions, relays and fuses (you have checked all of your fuses right?) supply which wires.

Good Luck...............
 
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 09:09 PM
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Its Fixed

It was the fuse for the regulator I think when the ALT went out it blew the fuse. I wanted to thank everyone for all the help with trying to fix my explorer.
I hope the next person with the same problem can use this thread. Check the fuse.

Thanks again
 
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 09:18 PM
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Congratulations,
Glad you got it fixed. These can be the little agrivating kind of failures that take time to track down. Depending on how low your battery got during all of this, you may want to put it on a charger for a while to lessen the stress on the new alternator.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 09:49 PM
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Im glad its fixed I had to drive my old truck while the EXP was down and it gets about 7 MPG . I put the battery on a slow charge yesterday but I think I will end up buying a new batery. Im sure I damaged it running it that low on water.
 
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