Broken Clutch
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 577
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From: Peoria IL
Broken Clutch
When I bought my truck last July it was said to have a new clutch in er. It it a Ford clutch. THe past few weeks I have noticed rattling sounds from the engine on and off.
There was a piece of the clutch spring stuck in the cover rattling against the clutch plate. At closer look all of the clutch springs are either broken or completely gone.
My first impression is Ford clutches are EDITED. I dont even have a turbo and Ive pulled a trailer only a couple times and it was a light trailer. Now I have to drive with a jerky clutch until I can afford the LUK.
Will my ZF5 hold up with no springs on the clutch. NOw I will slip the clutch more and probably no more trailers.
What kind of LUK clutch kit do I need? I prefer the cheapest LUK clutch kit to fix my problem so any info on the LUK clutch will be appreciated.
There was a piece of the clutch spring stuck in the cover rattling against the clutch plate. At closer look all of the clutch springs are either broken or completely gone.
My first impression is Ford clutches are EDITED. I dont even have a turbo and Ive pulled a trailer only a couple times and it was a light trailer. Now I have to drive with a jerky clutch until I can afford the LUK.
Will my ZF5 hold up with no springs on the clutch. NOw I will slip the clutch more and probably no more trailers.
What kind of LUK clutch kit do I need? I prefer the cheapest LUK clutch kit to fix my problem so any info on the LUK clutch will be appreciated.
Last edited by IB Tim; Mar 23, 2005 at 05:41 AM. Reason: Filter bumping
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Peoria IL
I looked at a site (Dial-A-Clutch) and they can sell me a Dual mass clutch kit for 172.00 plus 30.00 S+H.
I dont mind the stiff clutch, my leg gets used to it, and im a little short on the green paper so will I missing out on anything by going with the dual mass instead of the 700.00 single mass flywhee?
I dont mind the stiff clutch, my leg gets used to it, and im a little short on the green paper so will I missing out on anything by going with the dual mass instead of the 700.00 single mass flywhee?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
If that spring is out of the dual mass flywheel, the Luk conversion kit is cheaper than the dual mass flywheel alone.
For 172 dollars you must be getting a clutch disc, throw out bearing and a pressure plate.
Last time I heard someone say I think the dual mass flywheel was a little over a grand from Ford.
For 172 dollars you must be getting a clutch disc, throw out bearing and a pressure plate.
Last time I heard someone say I think the dual mass flywheel was a little over a grand from Ford.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,028
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From: San Antonio
I got a solid mass flywheel off a 1986 6.9 (these will fit ethier 6.9 or 7.3) laying around If your interested (e-mail me) I give you a good price on it $150 (note: I paid 1123.95 for a dual mass flywheel($700.00) and a kevlar clutch and presure plate and alignment tool in november 2003) ready to go. I will be down by cordova strip on the 1st saturday of april so That way you know what your getting.
Last edited by nogo73; Mar 17, 2005 at 09:29 PM.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
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From: Marengo, Iowa
On the ZF trannies, the springs are in the flywheel, not the clutch disc. I helped a friend with a 94 turbo change from the dual mass to the solid flywheel with the Luk kit, and they just loved the results. The flywheel in their truck was way fried, many of the springs were broken, the rubber or plastic coating metled, it was just a mess, no way to salvage.The dual mass flywheel is way more expensive to replace, as stated, it was around 700 new then which has been a few years ago. The Luk kit, with flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disc, was about $400.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Peoria IL
I got a Luk single mass clutch. Now I just need help on how to put it on. Never replaced a clutch on one of these trucks before.
Any advise on the tear down will be very appreciated as I will probably start in a couple days or so.
I figure you probably just jack the back of the engine up, unbolt the tranny from the engine and take the driveshaft off before you get the tranny to slide out. How does the shifter come out of the cab?
Any advise on the tear down will be very appreciated as I will probably start in a couple days or so.
I figure you probably just jack the back of the engine up, unbolt the tranny from the engine and take the driveshaft off before you get the tranny to slide out. How does the shifter come out of the cab?
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Rep. of Texas
Just be REALLY careful when you are taking the flywheel off, its only on there on a 1/8" lip (stuck on pretty good) and weighs a good bit. If it lands on your head it will kill you unless youre abnormal. I would harness it somehow so if it does drop then it wont hit you. Or you could just pry at it from inside the engine bay and just let it drop. Dont know on the shifter...
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i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,447
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
the shifter on the zf comes off through the inside of the cab. you need to pull the carpet/floor mat, unscrew the shifter boot, then you will see 4 (i think) screws holding the shifter to the trans. once the shifter is out, you will need to pull the floor pan to get the room to pull the trans. be very carefull with the old dual mass flywheel, it is extremly heavy, close to 60-70 lbs, and is only held onto the crank by a hair. when it falls, you WILL know it. also, there should be a plastic strap on your clutch cylinder to hold it together. if it is not there, use a wire tie to hold the rod into the slave cylinder. if it falls down or someone touches the clutch pedal while it is disconected and unsecured, the guts will fly out all over under the truck.(don't ask me how i found this one out)
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
The transmission and transfer case will be the hard part. Very heavy and awkward to manuver if you pull them together. You also have to unbolt the transfer case shifter lever.
I never heard of pulling the floor pan to remove a transmission before.
Once the shifters are removed it should come right out.
Mine is a little older though, and the bell housing is not part of the transmission.
The two top bolts are a PITA to get out though.
I never heard of pulling the floor pan to remove a transmission before.
Once the shifters are removed it should come right out.
Mine is a little older though, and the bell housing is not part of the transmission.
The two top bolts are a PITA to get out though.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,447
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
by pulling the floor pan, you get access to the top bolts and more room move and see what you are doing. the trans and bellhousing are a one piece design. if you have a 4X4, you should also seperate the trans and transfer case
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Elder User
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From: Peoria IL
Taking the floor pan out is a huge project in itself though. I dont fell like tearing out my whole interior for two bolts.
the t-case will probably be staying bolted on. ill just have to deal with the awkwardness.
the t-case will probably be staying bolted on. ill just have to deal with the awkwardness.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Just do not forget you are looking at close to 300 pounds with the transfer case and transmission together. A small slip could be real bad for you or whoever is helping you.
I would take it apart and lessen the chance of someone getting hurt.
I would take it apart and lessen the chance of someone getting hurt.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
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From: Marengo, Iowa
in my experience with a 93 F250 4x, the floorpan removal was a waste of time, it didn't really get me any more access. I think the floor pan removal is more beneficial on the 351W, but it didn't seem to be on the diesel. The transfer case isn't that bad to take loose, and makes it all a lot more safer. 6 bolts and it's off, if I recall correctly, and the linkage. Not a real big deal.