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Does the t-case just slide over some splined shaft and pull out after the bolts are removed?
One thing I wanted to avoid was unbolting the ujoint from the rear axle. I just replaced the ujoint and the bolts that hold it to the yoke are kind of rounded off and it was real fun to put back on since I couldnt find any new bolts for it. Cant see any way around it though.
Probably start this weekend, the clutch is making some bad clunks and noises at idle that you can clearly hear.
yup. unbolt the tcase from the trans, and it slides off the splined shaft.
a word of advice. do not use an air rachet to walk the bolts all the way out. there is not enough room, and the rachet will get jambed between the tcase and trans. you must unbolt the tcase in a circular patern so you can pull it back a bit after the bolts are loose. don't ask me how i know this little tidbit
a little tip, cut the head off a bolt that is longer than the ones in it, and put two in, one on each side, and use them as guide pins.Finger tight is fine, you want to be able to take them out after you reinstall the case in place later. As for the rear u-jointt, there just is no way around taking it loose, sorry.
I used the tip of putting in guide pins on the t-case. worked good yesterday. It took me about 5 minutes per bolt on everything that either holds or is connected to the t-case and tranny. That top bolt of the starter is a bich.
I thought the tranny bolts would be hardest but the top ones came right out from the engine compartment.
As of now the tranny is completely disconnected with no t-case or driveshafts on.
Its ready to drop and I have jacks holding the tranny and engine up but I cant get it to seperate at the clutch from the engine.
Any tips on the rest of the disassembly would be very appreciated.
Is the clutch assembly and flywheel going to just drop when I get it seperated from the motor? AND why the hell is the tranny and bellhousing all one piece? I was cussin Ford engineers all day.
Doulble check that EVERYTHING is unblotled at the bell, dust cover on the front, all that kind of thing. SOmetimes the bell will get stuck to the lineup pins on the block, making it stick, so you will have to kinda work it sideways until it comes loose.
Aren't those starte bolts just lovely? I spend more time spinning that top bolt than I do on the rest of the whole job usually.(changing starter) Don't worry about the clutch, it isn't going to go anywhere, you will still have to unblot it once the trans is clear.
i used a pinch bar to wiggle the trans loose from the motor after unbolting it.
now that i think of it, i had to remove the trans floor pan because i have the banks turbo in mine, and could not get to the pipes and turbo mount with it in place.
That sounds like the count. The reverse sswitch is located somewhere on the side of the trans, been a long time, so I don't recall. Did you get the dust cover bolts on the front of the bell? there should be a few there, unless I am mistaken, but they won't totally stop you, and would let you know after the trans slides back a bit and hangs up again. Myself, I don't keep a jack under the motor, it isn't going to go far, and certainly won't fall out. This allows a little more tilt back and room to work. I cheat many times and use the weight of the trans to get the tilt back to get at the top bolts from the bottom. You also get a better view of what is all happening. Also, it helps crack the trans loose from the engine.
I got the tranny out, got the new clutch in and now have the tranny back in. Plan on putting in the t-case and other junk by noon tomorrow but that might be pushing it since I had a little problem.
WHen I was putting the shifter back in I accidentally knocked some spring and a small piece of plating into the tranny. I heard it fall all the way down. The spring and plate where on top of the tranny right beneath the shifter. My best guess is it is for the reverse blocker so you cant shift from 5th to R.
I dont care if its in or not but the thing that bothers me is that thin plate is going to be getting ground up in the tranny now unless I get it out. Ive already tried with a magnet wand with no luck.
The tranny was the biggest pain in the *** to put in. Very awkward to handle with two floor jacks in your way holding it up and trying to slide it into the exact splines.
Oh yeah, the clutch works like a dream and falls to the floor, just have to test er on road now.
Put about 100 miles on my new clutch and she works great, best thing since I dont know what.
One thing I noticed about it is that it whines when I first start driving but then quiets down when the tranny gets warm. Ive read that a whine is normal in the low gears but it does it in all 5.
Just wanted to ask if this is normal for a LUK clutch.