No, really

Dana 60 Superior 4340 chromoly axles, the strongest readily available. 35 spline inners and outers. Used with CTM's, naturally. Heres your teaser pic:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...oid=72034&.jpg
Some have been curious why I would spend the mad amount of $$$ on Superiors, when you can get other moly axles (such as yukons) for much less. In these pics, you can see why:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=15391

The Superiors have improved and seriously beefed the area around the ear. This is the weak spot in any d60 35 spline axle. Its compared next to the stock spicer which is identicle to the yukon in dimensions. Also, quality control of these pieces are immaculate whereas with their competitors variations in ear thickness have been measured up to .10 +/- (per Billavista).

I don't need to say how much I'm impressed with these axles as well as the CTM's. Talk about well-matched parts...I don't think these pieces will be the next things I break

 

Nice. I toy with a superior 44 kit, but since nothing is broke, Why If (and that is a big IF) I ever step up to 44s, my plan is rockwells and tractor tires None of the breakage, all the traction. The attraction for me is that 2.5 tons are cheaper than swapping in 60s or 70s and upgrading them. However, the way I flog my 300 with the top 1/4" of the throttle, I think my 44/ 60 combo should last for a few more outings

 

I'll eventually go to rockwells, and these axles will go in a trail rig. For the time being though, its nice to know my axle shafts are stronger than a stock rockwell shaft

 

There's a problem with this theory. When you're running any kind of decent horsepower with Rockwells and 44's you WILL have breakage. Light rock buggies with 300-400HP are breaking Rockwell shafts. Guess what it costs to upgrade a Rockwell steering axle to chromoly? $3200. A Rockwell is a strong axle but they're not THAT strong. The knuckles are ideal for a 44" tire but if you do a lot of tough terrain and you're really getting on it the shafts won't hold up too long.

You know Pro, we'll probably be regretting not buying the new 40 spline junk in no time flat. Question for you: I know we talked about painting these shafts and Billa's article recommended some special acid etch primer that should be used first. Have you managed to find this primer anywhere? I want to hit up my shafts with it before they go in the truck. Otherwise I'll clear coat them to keep the bling effect.

 

i think you got it all wrong, i have the superior shaft, and it necks up, not down, its 50 spline

 

proe, what did the axles run you, if you know somebody that knows somebody, i dont need that price, just the customer price ( joints axles separate ) thanks

 

Dana 60/70. Dave at Shaffers offroad has the best prices ( 775-885-9944).

Hey Ko, what are you using a 50 splined axle in!?

 

Not really sure.....

 

Dude, NOT funny to talk about his stuff that way...

 

I've got a tracking number on CTM's now. The suspense is killing me! Not that I have the rest of the junk I need anyway. Besides all the parts I'm waiting on my grinder died about 2 minutes after I got off the phone with you last night. So I had to scrap turning the perches. Hit up Lowe's at 6AM and bought a CHEAP one this morning. We'll see if it lasts longer than that damn Porter Cable.

 

I have to take care of my cows


Hey ivan, milwalkee is your friend....you get wut u pay fer

 

yea, but all 'lectro grinders pretty much suck. Pneumatic is where its at

 

I burned up the Milwaulkee last year on misc junk before I even started tearing into my suspension. If I remember correctly it died when I was shaving my rear axle. I chopped about 3/4" off with the sawzall (Milwaulkee) and then went to work with the grinder. Bearings toasted all to hell, it seized up, and burnt out the winding. That's why I bought the PC but the top bearing in it died last night. The rest of it is good though so I may see if I can get that bearing replaced. In the mean time it's a $40 Firestorm POS. If it can last me 4 weeks I'll be happy. I have the pneumatic setup but my compressor can't keep up.

 

*mental note* Do not loan out electrical tools to Ivan.

For now stock spicers are holding up nicely in my front 60. I do how ever want to get a set of rear supurior shafts for the 14 bolt.

 

I haven't broken anything yet but I was in the process of tearing my D60 apart to turn the knuckles. I found I had a dying U-joint and figured while I was replacing it I should upgrade the axles too. So dip there starts blabbing about Superiors and CTM's and I had to buy them too, though I'm not going with Superior inners just yet.

If an outer stub breaks or U-joint breaks it'll often toast the ears on the inner shaft. But if an inner breaks there's no harm done to the U-joint or outer stub. So I'll run the Spicer inners for as long as I can. I did upgrade to a non-neck down set of inners though, since it was cheap. Pro's damage all occurred because he broke an outer stub which caught and broke his U-joint which stretched the ear on his inner shaft. Of course this is all because he couldn't steer. "I just really don't see the need for hydro assist on a mud bogger." I think if the outers and u-joints are indestructable it's going to be HARD to break an inner shaft.