Charging system???
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: S. Mississippi
Charging system???
hi i have a 1982 f-150 302, i was wondering if the charging system has went south. Yesterday i went out on my usual routine of doing errands. when i went to start the truck up, it spun over slowly and started, ran fine.. and went on about my errands. I brought it back home parked it and shut it off. I went to start the truck and it acts like the battery is dead. I've jumped it off, and it will run fine, but when you shut it off after the truck has been ran sufficently to charge the battery it once again acts like its dead. We've did the simple check on the alternator and pulled the negative cable. The truck continued running. Any ideas??
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From: Linwood, N.J. USA!
Charging system???
First thing that I would do is put a volt meter on the alternator and make sure that it is putting out the proper voltage. Normal alternator output is around 14 to 14.5 volts. Next thing I would do is make sure that the connections to the battery are clean and tight. I would also check any connections between the alt and the battery to make sure that you are getting the charge between the two.
It could be the battery but my guess is the alternator. I have seen alternators put out low voltages. I believe that they can go as low as 6 volts of output and still allow the engine to run. It may not run 100% but it will run. Good luck.
Jakegypsum // Ford fleet, soup to nuts.
It could be the battery but my guess is the alternator. I have seen alternators put out low voltages. I believe that they can go as low as 6 volts of output and still allow the engine to run. It may not run 100% but it will run. Good luck.
Jakegypsum // Ford fleet, soup to nuts.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: S. Mississippi
Charging system???
I let my dad take the battery for a day or so, and it seems to be cranking and running his ranger fine, i put the battery back in and i'm waiting to go check it out. I have yet to check the alternator out. I'm hoping its nothing major because i really need the truck for work and can't really afford to buy an alternator.
1982 F-150 AOD 302
1976 f-100 Needs motor and tranny, lots more mods to come
[image]http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1667754&a=12880301&p=48237373.jpg[/image]
1982 F-150 AOD 302
1976 f-100 Needs motor and tranny, lots more mods to come
[image]http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1667754&a=12880301&p=48237373.jpg[/image]
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Racine WI
Charging system???
If it kept running with the neg cable off i would say battery too, try taking the battery cable off with the headlights on and see if it keeps runnin with the cable off then i would definatly say battery is shot, my starter in my 75 cranked real slow too and drew hella amps off the brand new battery, i replaced the starter and it starts so much easier starts like it has efi i swear i think the starter was so messed up that it was drawing that battery for all it had and depriving the ignition of its needed power, this is the result of headers lol, the starter was 21 bux at autozone tax included, bat was 35 850cca cheapie at walmart, and alt and voltage reg was 29 at autozone
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: S. Mississippi
Charging system???
I'm thinking battery too, im just not so certain... i just replaced the starter this afternoon, and it still drags. It just started the other day after i hit a pothole... its not arcing fire when you put the cables on the battery, so i don't think its a direct short..it may have something to do with the ignition being on. I replaced my voltage reg today and it helped for a bit, but then started dragging once again. *chaned the volt before the starter* i'm just about so fed up with it i'm willing to trade for a ranger or something...geeze, just something to get away from the electrical gremlins!
1982 F-150 AOD 302
1976 f-100 Needs motor and tranny, lots more mods to come
[image]http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1667754&a=12880301&p=48237373.jpg[/image]
1982 F-150 AOD 302
1976 f-100 Needs motor and tranny, lots more mods to come
[image]http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1667754&a=12880301&p=48237373.jpg[/image]
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Joined: Mar 2001
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Charging system???
i ll trade with you!
but it may be the alt or a short in the system
Rodney
1982 3.8/232v6 3speed on the tree Swb
but it may be the alt or a short in the system
Rodney
1982 3.8/232v6 3speed on the tree Swb
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Glen Burnie Maryland
Charging system???
Ok.
Battery is good.
Alternator is Good.
Voltage regulator is good.
Did anyone think about how OLD his cables are????? or how tight all the connections (not just at the battery) are.
Sounds like your cables are aged (read internally corroded) to the point of no return. You hitting a pothole may have jarred one or all of the cables enough to cause a high resistance value.
Replace ALL THREE MAIN CABLES. + to solenoid, + from Solenoid to Battery, and Ground. Use a dremel to clean off corrosion from contact points. Install cables away from heat sources (get longer cable of a thicker gauge if necessary) while routing.
Personally I use 2 gauge welding cable when I replace any battery cable. Cut to fit, attach leads (crimp then solder), dip the joint in liquid tape. Dad showed me this trick about 20 years ago. His 37 Buick still has the same cables from then and no problems. Using larger diameter cable will ensure maximum amps and will minimize heating of cable during long cranking periods (which causes higher resistance values). Sure it's more expensive but it will last a lot longer and your starting / charging system will work better....
Larry
Battery is good.
Alternator is Good.
Voltage regulator is good.
Did anyone think about how OLD his cables are????? or how tight all the connections (not just at the battery) are.
Sounds like your cables are aged (read internally corroded) to the point of no return. You hitting a pothole may have jarred one or all of the cables enough to cause a high resistance value.
Replace ALL THREE MAIN CABLES. + to solenoid, + from Solenoid to Battery, and Ground. Use a dremel to clean off corrosion from contact points. Install cables away from heat sources (get longer cable of a thicker gauge if necessary) while routing.
Personally I use 2 gauge welding cable when I replace any battery cable. Cut to fit, attach leads (crimp then solder), dip the joint in liquid tape. Dad showed me this trick about 20 years ago. His 37 Buick still has the same cables from then and no problems. Using larger diameter cable will ensure maximum amps and will minimize heating of cable during long cranking periods (which causes higher resistance values). Sure it's more expensive but it will last a lot longer and your starting / charging system will work better....
Larry
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,586
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From: Linwood, N.J. USA!
Charging system???
I agree with checking the cables and I am also a firm believer of upgrading to a heavier guage cable. It makes the biggest difference in the world.
Jakegypsum // Ford fleet, soup to nuts.
Jakegypsum // Ford fleet, soup to nuts.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 684
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Charging system???
Correct me if I'm wrong, please. I was taught in automotive school to NEVER pull off a battery cable on an alternator equipped, running vehicle as it will blow at least one diode. That's what a voltmeter is made for.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,357
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From: S. Mississippi
Charging system???
LoL, yeah i know what you mean... hehe i know you aren't supposed to pull the neg off when the thing is running, but just an old fashioned test. Anyway, yeah today i'm gonna replace all 3 cables, if it doesn't work this time *which it probably will just to tick me off* i'm snatching the motor. I got a mustang to drive and a 76 to put an I6 in... (read, very fed up with current truck)
