E4OD input shaft seal
I do all of the general maintenance and minor repairs on my truck (1990 F-150 E4OD) so I'm confident that I can do it, although I have never worked on the tranny before. My question is- is this going to be a one-man job, or am I going to have to bum some help? I have a jack and I plan to disconnect everything, slide the transmission back, and lower it down, doing the work with the tranny still under the truck. Is it do-able? Any advice, tips?
I hate auto trannys.
Thanks.
Nate
1964 F-100 Custom Cab 292 V-8 3 spd
1964 F-100 292 V-8 3 spd
1990 F-150 5.8L
http://www.geocities.com/revnate64/Revnate.html
you get to relign some thrust washers and this is best done with trans setting tail down. Removal of the old seal is sometimes tough I use a slide hammer with a screw attachment I drill a small hole in the face of the seal that is not seated against the tran housing then screw in a short sheet metal screw and use the slide hammer to knock it out. Be careful here and not nick the mounting flange or the front pump bushing. Please rent a seal driver to put the new seal in just beating on it with a hammer and drift can cause your new seal to bend in the wrong places causing another leak. Now that you have the seal in coat it with a lubricant. I use sil-glide but tran fluid will work. Make sure you lubricate it, or you run the risk of burning up the new seal before it gets lubrication. Next put the torque converter in turning and holding pressure against it as it goes in and make sure the it GOES IN ALL THE WAY as a matter of fact it would be a good idea to measure how far from the front edge of the tran that the face of the torque converter sets before you take it down. Next to put the tran back in you have to align the stud bolts on the converter up with the holes in the fly wheel and the converter drain plug(s) with there holes, failure to do this will cause tran failure. Align tran on dowel pegs on back of engine and start working the tran forward until you can get a bolt started on both sides be real carefull here you can not pull this tranny up with the bolts keep checking that the converter stud bolts are loose in the holes of the flywheel. When things are lined up right the trans will usually slip into place with out a lot of effort. The more bolts you can get started the better off you are. A good tranny jack helps because you can control the up and down, the tilt and the left and right. What ever if the tran trys to bind going in find out why it is binding and cure that problem. You can bust the front pump on these pretty easy so that is why I emphasize being careful when reinstalling these trans.
And this job is a whole lot easier with another set of hands. Good luck. TAR
Wayne
http://home.pacbell.net/whomrig
I just have to tell this because it beat all I ever saw. My help was a 190lb. man. Frustrated with the jack (and the......Ford)- we put the tranny back on the ground. He got UNDER it, set the tailpiece up on his knees and lifted the bell and slid it up on the dowels in the back of the block. Just before he did it, he said, "grab a stick- you might have to poke my guts back in if I drop this."
It was an act of sheer idiocy, but it worked
(don't try this at home)
Thanks again, guys.
Nate
1964 F-100 Custom Cab 292 V-8 3 spd
1964 F-100 292 V-8 3 spd
1990 F-150 5.8L
http://www.geocities.com/revnate64/Revnate.html
The second time it came out, we rented a jack!
1988 F-150, SWB, 5.0 EFI (formerly 4.9 EFI), M5OD 5 speed, 3.08 gears, Summit shorty truck headers, Custom built Flowmaster exhaust system. Force 4 LP6000 lightbar, Federal signal PA-300 100 watt siren, Icom IC-V100 50 watt mobile radio.
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1965 F-100 (just purchased 1/18/01), SWB, 390, C-6 auto. Dual exhaust, Not much else to do to it.
Can see both below.
[link:www.geocities.com/hotrodford_88/|Hotrodford_88's Webpage]






