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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

E4OD input shaft seal

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Old May 21, 2001 | 06:56 PM
  #1  
Nate_64's Avatar
Nate_64
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E4OD input shaft seal

The front seal on my transmission is leaking (more like streaming) so it looks like I get to have some fun.

I do all of the general maintenance and minor repairs on my truck (1990 F-150 E4OD) so I'm confident that I can do it, although I have never worked on the tranny before. My question is- is this going to be a one-man job, or am I going to have to bum some help? I have a jack and I plan to disconnect everything, slide the transmission back, and lower it down, doing the work with the tranny still under the truck. Is it do-able? Any advice, tips?
I hate auto trannys.

Thanks.

Nate

1964 F-100 Custom Cab 292 V-8 3 spd
1964 F-100 292 V-8 3 spd
1990 F-150 5.8L
http://www.geocities.com/revnate64/Revnate.html

 
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Old May 22, 2001 | 11:24 AM
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wtroger
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E4OD input shaft seal

This job is not easy but doable first taking the tran down is not a big deal. When you remove the torque converter make sure that the center shaft stays put. Make sure that it does not slip forward on you. IF it does slide it back if it won't go back then
you get to relign some thrust washers and this is best done with trans setting tail down. Removal of the old seal is sometimes tough I use a slide hammer with a screw attachment I drill a small hole in the face of the seal that is not seated against the tran housing then screw in a short sheet metal screw and use the slide hammer to knock it out. Be careful here and not nick the mounting flange or the front pump bushing. Please rent a seal driver to put the new seal in just beating on it with a hammer and drift can cause your new seal to bend in the wrong places causing another leak. Now that you have the seal in coat it with a lubricant. I use sil-glide but tran fluid will work. Make sure you lubricate it, or you run the risk of burning up the new seal before it gets lubrication. Next put the torque converter in turning and holding pressure against it as it goes in and make sure the it GOES IN ALL THE WAY as a matter of fact it would be a good idea to measure how far from the front edge of the tran that the face of the torque converter sets before you take it down. Next to put the tran back in you have to align the stud bolts on the converter up with the holes in the fly wheel and the converter drain plug(s) with there holes, failure to do this will cause tran failure. Align tran on dowel pegs on back of engine and start working the tran forward until you can get a bolt started on both sides be real carefull here you can not pull this tranny up with the bolts keep checking that the converter stud bolts are loose in the holes of the flywheel. When things are lined up right the trans will usually slip into place with out a lot of effort. The more bolts you can get started the better off you are. A good tranny jack helps because you can control the up and down, the tilt and the left and right. What ever if the tran trys to bind going in find out why it is binding and cure that problem. You can bust the front pump on these pretty easy so that is why I emphasize being careful when reinstalling these trans.
And this job is a whole lot easier with another set of hands. Good luck. TAR
 
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Old May 22, 2001 | 02:01 PM
  #3  
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whomrig
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E4OD input shaft seal

As an extra measure after all this work, mark the torque converter/flywheel relationship, before disassembly. this will keep things in balance on re-assembly.

Wayne

http://home.pacbell.net/whomrig
 
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Old May 25, 2001 | 12:06 AM
  #4  
Nate_64's Avatar
Nate_64
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E4OD input shaft seal

Thanks guys! After a few (non-truck-related) delays I got it done today. I will say that it was NOT a one man job- at least not for me. Actually, I went solo right up until it came time to bolt the tranny back up. It was then that I recruited some help.
I just have to tell this because it beat all I ever saw. My help was a 190lb. man. Frustrated with the jack (and the......Ford)- we put the tranny back on the ground. He got UNDER it, set the tailpiece up on his knees and lifted the bell and slid it up on the dowels in the back of the block. Just before he did it, he said, "grab a stick- you might have to poke my guts back in if I drop this."
It was an act of sheer idiocy, but it worked
(don't try this at home)

Thanks again, guys.

Nate

1964 F-100 Custom Cab 292 V-8 3 spd
1964 F-100 292 V-8 3 spd
1990 F-150 5.8L
http://www.geocities.com/revnate64/Revnate.html

 
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Old May 25, 2001 | 04:20 AM
  #5  
hotrodford_88's Avatar
hotrodford_88
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From: Texas
E4OD input shaft seal

I know about the human transmission jack! Tried that with the M5OD in my 88 model! Not very fun! Thought it would be funny to try, not funny when you're arms start to give way after holding that transmission up there for 5 minutes or so while somebody puts the bolts in, and slides the crossmember in place!

The second time it came out, we rented a jack!

1988 F-150, SWB, 5.0 EFI (formerly 4.9 EFI), M5OD 5 speed, 3.08 gears, Summit shorty truck headers, Custom built Flowmaster exhaust system. Force 4 LP6000 lightbar, Federal signal PA-300 100 watt siren, Icom IC-V100 50 watt mobile radio.
=======================================
1965 F-100 (just purchased 1/18/01), SWB, 390, C-6 auto. Dual exhaust, Not much else to do to it.

Can see both below.

[link:www.geocities.com/hotrodford_88/|Hotrodford_88's Webpage]

 
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Old May 25, 2001 | 08:22 AM
  #6  
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SteveH4954
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E4OD input shaft seal

 
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