I read though most of these posts, and came up with this solution.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

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PROBLEM: My problem is that my tranny is getting harder and harder to get in gear, especially 1st and 2nd. My shifter seems to have a lot of play in it too. There is no grinding in the tranny, just some chatter.<o></o>

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I just replaced my clutch and slave in Jan. I wished I would have taken care of all this at once. I think I still need to bleed the clutch better too. And I'm going to switch to Redline D4 ATF soon.<o></o>

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FIX: I want to replace my 3 rubber plugs, though the floor pan. I also want to replace the bushings in the shifter lever. Also replace the shift forks.<o></o>

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QUESTIONS: Can I replace the shift forks though the top of the tranny without dropping it? Is this an easy fix? Does anyone know all the parts and part # to do these jobs. Do you think that this will solve my problem, without a rebuild?

thx, dane <o></o>

 

Dane;I don't think the shifter forks are your problem.It's the bushings.I just replaced mine.Not only were the plastic sockets gone,but the shim and spring were also gone.
You will need the upper and lower plastic socket,part number1L2Z7228AA.2shims part number E8TZ7E018A AND 2 spring,part number 1L2Z7Z120AA.Those are Ford part numbers.I found parts of the shim and spring in the bottom of the trans on the drain plug magnet.Hope this is helpfull and will fix you m5od problem.
Jack

 

How hard is this to do? any books you'd suggest?

 

Dane;It is really quite simple to do this.Put the trans.in neutral.Carefully remove the 4 screws under the rubber boot that hold the boot in place.Lift up the boot and remove the 3 torx head screws that hold the shifter in place.Lift up the shifter and it's out of the trans.Look above the ball and you should see the plastic socket(which may be gone) and the 2 steel rings.Above the boot that had the 3 torx screws you will see a bolt with a nut,mine was a 17 mm.Take the nut off and put it on the other side of the bolt and tighten it down.Doing so will take the bolt off the shaft which will allow you to pull the ball and shaft off the shifter.Then it is just a matter of taking all the old stuff off and putting on the new.Make sure the socket is lined up with the 2 grooves that are in the ball.When all the new parts are on put the shaft back on the shifter put the bolt back on and take the nut off and put it on the other side like it was originally and tighten it down to 16 ft. pounds.In the trans.shifter caseyou will see 2 pins.Take a punch and knock just one pin out and remove the socket and the steel rings.Put your new parts in the trans.shifter case drive in the pin and that is done.Put your shifter back in the trans.tighten the 3 torx screws,put the boot back on and guess what?You are done!!! It is not hard at all and once you take it apart you will see how everything works and goes together like a piece of cake.
Jack

 

Thanks for the help on the bushings, everything went real smooth. I ended up cutting the lower bushing in half, so I didn't have to pull the pin. I wasn't shocked to find out that the original bushings were completely gone, as were the shims. It shifts a lot better than it did, but I still think it can be improved. In the future can the shift forks be accessed through the cover, or dose the tranny need to be dropped.

thx for the help,
dane

 

i had the same problem, same trans in a 1995 f-150, there was so much play in the stick and it would be hard to get it into 3rd gear and i would shift into 1st or 3rd and id be hitting the dash board, well it was part of the meatal casting on the top of the trans, the shifter slides into the trans and theres two flat ends that stick out from the shifter, well they slide into the trans and on mine the part of the trans that hold them was warn out, if finally went out when i went to shift into 4th and BHAM, it broke, i couldnt move the shift **** anywere it was stuck, that really sucked, maybe this problem isnt the same as yours but i thought i could throw in my 2 cents, hope i dont go broke though, well thanks

 

My transmission is out of the truck,so I really don't know if the shifter case and forks can be removed without pulling the trans.But,from what I have read on other posts you can do it.I measured from the bottom of the case to the bottom of the forks which is 4 inches.All you have to do is remove the 10 bolts and lift up the case and it will all come out.So,if you have more than 4 inches clearance it will come out.whitezmbie must be talking about the clutch hub assembly,where the forks engage the trans.When you get the top off you can look right down into the trans. and see just what is going on. Jack

 

My Tranny wont engage either first or second gear ... could it be the bushings too?? Also what is the aprox. cost of the parts ( bushings and shims)?

 

The bushings help, but like I said it wasn't a cure. The shifter feels a lot better, well worth the repair. I still think that the shift fork are the problem, at worst the syncros. The parts from the dealer were about $30. Let us know if you have any more questions.

I also went with Amsoil Universal ATF, not Redline D4 due to local availability. So far so good, the cold shifts are better. I've yet to go on a long trip to tell what it's like when the tranny really heats up.