Put the truck in 4 wheel hi and seems to be slipping in and out. Bang, Bang, thump etc. How can I be sure that it's the front hubs and not a bad or stripped transfer case? A simple test? I'm new and hope this isn't an obvious question to you guys, but I don't want to spend a fortune at the dealer getting it diagnosed. Thanks - Timid Soul

 

Check to see if the front driveshaft is spinning when engaged (will require two people). Odds are good its a hub, common failure in that model.

 

another ( and easier way ) to check is to put it in 4 hi and do a brake torque. if your back wheels spin then your hubs are shot... no just kidding he he but that woudl work.
put it in 4 wd and go off road ( not mudding or anything ) and see if it make a difference, if the sterring feels rough and your back end doesnt fishtail then it's not your hubs. but im pretty sure it is

 

Do what the stearlship would do .Get all 4 wheels off the ground {ON JACK STANDS},start truck put it in gear turn on the 4x4 see what is working.If its the hubs get a set of manual ones dheaper and stronger.if its the t case check the elec engage moter first ,take off and clean.If its the t case PM me I got 2 good ones I'll sel ya.right.
Jeff.

 

yeah well that works too! if you want to be technical. j/k, thats' great advise

 

well not really, no it doesn't work like that. see the issue with the front hubs failing, will and can not be duplicated on a rack. the axle needs to "bind up" to pop the auto hubs out. there is no binding up or loading the axle on a rack or jackstands. it should pop more often in 4 low than 4 high. the best bet us to have the wheel turned hard in either direction while in 4 low on hard surface. have a helper check for front wheel joints for rotation . chances are, you will likely hear it from the inside wheel during the turn. it is best to convert to the early manual hubs. this is actually really cheap and easy. find a set at the bone yard off a pre 89. you will need the hubs as well as the axle nuts-lock ring. the auto hub units wont fit. i use to keep these around for situations just like yours. the factory front auto hubs are really only good for 30-50 k depending on the amount of 4x4..

 

huskydrw, will any pre 89 Ranger hubs work on the 95? Which would be best, pre 89 hubs or the new manual jobbies? Think I'll replace the hubs first. Thanks for all the info guys! Great site.

 

TThere working RIGHT!!! DO NOT USR 4X4 ON HARD SURFACE!!!That ts the front end binding up.It will brake front end parts.I have noticed on my 96 Ranger with the D35 front axle it will do it on hard dirt.The D28 only did it on Pavement.Your hubs and t-case are working fine form what you said in the above post.
The way I said to check your 4X4 system will work and will tell you what is working and not working.

 

NO!! the 89 has a D28 axle ,the 95 has a bigger D35 front axle.They will not interchange.

 

Another site mentioned an electric switch that could cause this problem, putting it in and out of 4 wheel. Possible?

 

AHHH!, okay, i think people are gettnig confused or somthing. The automatic locking hubs on these trucks stink. Your truck has a Dana 35 front axle. In order to check the hubs, put it on a flat surface, engage the 4x4, drive the vehicle forward about 20 feet put it in park. Then just using a jack, jack up the front passenger side wheel. then try to turn it, it should turn a little bit, then lock up. It should do this turning it both directions. If the wheel locks up, then the hub is working, and you should then check the drivers side. If the wheel turns freely, then look at the front axle. If the axle spins when you spin the wheel, then it is a problem with your transfer case. If the wheel spins, but the driveshaft doesnt, then it is a problem with your Hub.

If you find out it is the hub, then call up the local junk yard. Since Manual hubs rarely have problems with them, you should be able to get a pair that will last as long as your truck will. I did the same thing, went from auto to manual. At the junkyard, ONE auto hub was 75$, and TWO manual ones were 60$. I also had to go down to autozone and buy the manual hub spindle nuts. It was 50 bucks for the nuts. If i was smart, i would have just asked the junkyard to pull the spindle nuts with the hubs.

The manual hubs are much more reliable and actually alot less hassle then the automatic ones were. Hope this helps. Also, Hubs from an explorer will work just the same. ANy junk yard should allready know that though, just tell them what you need.

 

Thanks Peter94. That's the most info I have received so far. Makes a lot of sense. I sure hope it's just the hubs. I'll try this tomorrow and let you know. Again, Thanks

 

great info Peter94!!!!

 

Hey Peter94, how about the front differential. Looks like it's been leaking pretty bad. Should the drive shaft going into the diff turn freely?

 

Its hard to say. Depending on what gear ratio you have, it may be easy to turn (like if you had a 4.10 gear ratio) or if you had a 3.08 gear rato it would be harder. I would take out the fill plug in the front and make sure its topped off with fluid. Where's it leaking at anyway? Are you sure its not just fluid from your engine dripping down on it? I know when i towed my truck, i was turning with the engine off, and it popped the power steering cap off, and shot power steering fluid all over, and made it look like the front diff was leaking. I dont think the front differential could cause the symptoms your describing though. How did your hubs check out? Because its most likely your hubs, those automatic ones are completely worthless anyway.