Play in Steering Wheel
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Joined: Mar 2005
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Play in Steering Wheel
Drove my newly acquired '48 F1 home yesterday (40 miles) and, even though I have never driven a truck like that before, it still seemed to me that there was way too much play in the steering wheel. Just checked it while sitting in my garage without the motor running, and the steering wheel can be moved at least 8 inches in both directions without any strain at all. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
No George, it isn't really 'fenders with a new FTE handle. Start typing and help this man out.
Welcome to the forum mjaccobbe. Your truck has an illness called the "Drunken Monkey". There are several cures for this one, but I'll spare you mine, at least for now. And congrats on the 40 miles. That's not half bad. Most of us were lucky to get 40 feet onto a trailer when we bought our trucks.
Welcome to the forum mjaccobbe. Your truck has an illness called the "Drunken Monkey". There are several cures for this one, but I'll spare you mine, at least for now. And congrats on the 40 miles. That's not half bad. Most of us were lucky to get 40 feet onto a trailer when we bought our trucks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,776
Likes: 553
From: Kalispell, MT
Along with 'fenders, welcome to FTE. No, 8" isn't fun to drive on the highway but sure keeps other drivers awake 
Normal is maybe 2' of movement. You mentioned testing with engine not running - what do you have at present? Stock setup or some sort of power steering?
Normal is maybe 2' of movement. You mentioned testing with engine not running - what do you have at present? Stock setup or some sort of power steering?
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,730
Likes: 13
From: Waynesville, OH
Jacob (?),
Assuming you are working with a stock front end, here is part of an earlier post on this subject and here is a link the thread. You can find quite a bit of to-the-point information (and a bunch of horsing around too ) using the search function. Go to advanced search, enter "drunken monkey" in the search box (no kidding), select the 1948-1960 Forum in the box on the lower-right, and browse the listed threads. Once you get through those, check back in with any remaining questions. Good luck and welcome to the board. 
Assuming you are working with a stock front end, here is part of an earlier post on this subject and here is a link the thread. You can find quite a bit of to-the-point information (and a bunch of horsing around too
) using the search function. Go to advanced search, enter "drunken monkey" in the search box (no kidding), select the 1948-1960 Forum in the box on the lower-right, and browse the listed threads. Once you get through those, check back in with any remaining questions. Good luck and welcome to the board.
I think your biggest mistake is in looking for wisdom from this crowd. 
That said, there is nothing like a side-by-side comparison if you are serious and can make the logistics work out.
I got to drive my truck Earl, before we tore him down. Earl had a totally stock front end - I suspect it was the original gear although it's hard to tell. Earl's king pins, tie rod ends, drag link, steering box, and leaf spring bushings were all pretty badly worn, and it was VERY hard to drive - even at 40 MPH. The condition is not-so-affectionately called Drunken Monkey steering on this board. I suspect Earl's condition when we got him is typical of most trucks that have not had a thorough rebuild in the past 25 years.
I also got to drive a 55 F-100 with a fully rebuilt stock front end this past fall. There was NO comparison. Even though the 55 did NOT handle like a Corvette, I could take my hands off the steering wheel (not too far off, I wanted to stay safe) at 65 and there was no problem, even on a pretty bad section of interstate they are getting ready to resurface. The truck ran straight and only required a little correction on the larger bumps and holes. The ride was pretty much what I expected - a little harsh - and you could feel most of the bumps, but it wasn't a kidney buster. All-in-all, I wouldn't mind spending several hours behind the wheel on a trip.
Tim (55 owner) used all stock components on the front end rebuild - no special parts. He did get the king pin bushings reamed at the same place I did, and they did a great job. Personally, I think the cost of replacing the spring bushings, drag link innards, tie rod ends, and king pins and bushings is just too cheap to not try before other options.
Complete King Pin Kit $42
King Pin Reaming $50
Tie Rod Ends $15 each (need 2)
Drag Link Internals Kit $20
Spring Shackle Pin $5.25 each (need 6)
Spring Shackle Bushing $3.50 each (need 8)
Total $200.50
If you need steering box components, the cost will go higher, but you can replace the steering worm and sector gears for around $110. Enjoy your truck, whichever way you go!
That said, there is nothing like a side-by-side comparison if you are serious and can make the logistics work out.I got to drive my truck Earl, before we tore him down. Earl had a totally stock front end - I suspect it was the original gear although it's hard to tell. Earl's king pins, tie rod ends, drag link, steering box, and leaf spring bushings were all pretty badly worn, and it was VERY hard to drive - even at 40 MPH. The condition is not-so-affectionately called Drunken Monkey steering on this board. I suspect Earl's condition when we got him is typical of most trucks that have not had a thorough rebuild in the past 25 years.
I also got to drive a 55 F-100 with a fully rebuilt stock front end this past fall. There was NO comparison. Even though the 55 did NOT handle like a Corvette, I could take my hands off the steering wheel (not too far off, I wanted to stay safe) at 65 and there was no problem, even on a pretty bad section of interstate they are getting ready to resurface. The truck ran straight and only required a little correction on the larger bumps and holes. The ride was pretty much what I expected - a little harsh - and you could feel most of the bumps, but it wasn't a kidney buster. All-in-all, I wouldn't mind spending several hours behind the wheel on a trip.
Tim (55 owner) used all stock components on the front end rebuild - no special parts. He did get the king pin bushings reamed at the same place I did, and they did a great job. Personally, I think the cost of replacing the spring bushings, drag link innards, tie rod ends, and king pins and bushings is just too cheap to not try before other options.
Complete King Pin Kit $42
King Pin Reaming $50
Tie Rod Ends $15 each (need 2)
Drag Link Internals Kit $20
Spring Shackle Pin $5.25 each (need 6)
Spring Shackle Bushing $3.50 each (need 8)
Total $200.50
If you need steering box components, the cost will go higher, but you can replace the steering worm and sector gears for around $110. Enjoy your truck, whichever way you go!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Minnesota
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Minnesota
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Postmaster
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That's why I figure I should put the URL in there. It's too easy for folks to miss the blue link. 
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Friendswood, Texas
Originally Posted by mjacobbe
Drove my newly acquired '48 F1 home yesterday (40 miles) and, even though I have never driven a truck like that before, it still seemed to me that there was way too much play in the steering wheel. Just checked it while sitting in my garage without the motor running, and the steering wheel can be moved at least 8 inches in both directions without any strain at all. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Originally Posted by mjacobbe
Drove my newly acquired '48 F1 home yesterday (40 miles) and, even though I have never driven a truck like that before, it still seemed to me that there was way too much play in the steering wheel. Just checked it while sitting in my garage without the motor running, and the steering wheel can be moved at least 8 inches in both directions without any strain at all. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!
We drove our panel 2000 miles home with steering (power ram assisted as well) having 1/2 that much play. It was "exciting" thru the mountains especially when semis would go by, when it would decide to change lanes all by itself... Made my wife turn green and she's a national champ autocrosser!
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 115
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I just went from 6" of play to about 1" this weekend by tightening up the steering box on my 54. I took about 15 minutes. I don't know if your box is the same, but there's a lock nut with a large slotted set-screw in the middle that faces towards the engine. Loosen the lock nut, tighten the inner screw, and retighten the lock nut. Done!
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,730
Likes: 13
From: Waynesville, OH
When you do the adjustment Brad suggested, you need to make sure the wheels are pointed straight ahead. The worm gear and sector gear are designed to have their closest mesh at that point. If you tighten that adjusting screw with the wheels turned, you could cause the gears to bind as you cross over the steering center point.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 115
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George - thanks for that note. I did have them straight, although my wheel is still a little out of alignment. I'll be doing the power steering upgrade soon - with a new heavey-duty tie rod and probable drag link ends also to tighten up the whole thing even more.