Rear Brake Problems
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Rear Brake Problems
Hi I need some advuce. I have a 79 ford f250 with a 300 6 cyl in it. It is just a 2 wd .. now i went to take off the rear drums to fix the emergency brake cable and i'll be damed if I can figure out how the drum comes off. Do you need to take the whole axcel out?? Im at a loss. If thats the case ford sure has some dumb ideas!! Please any help would be appreciated.
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thanks, but those threads are quite vague. If anyone knows a detailed way to do it please let me know. Thanks
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The drums pull off the axle hub. Many times there is enough wear inside the drum that there is a lip on the inside. The brake shoes will be out and will hang on the lip. run the adjuster so that the brake shoes are looser. This will let the drum slide off. Also the drum may be frozen to the hub in the center. Spray with wd40 and let sit. Use screwdrivers to pry out and hit the center of the axle hub at the same time. Usually this will pop the drum off. Sometimes the center of the hub is damaged and you have to grind off the damage...usually the damage is from someone beating on the hub improperly trying to get the drum off. Also, using a torch to apply heat to the drum center but not the axle sometimes helps to break this loose. One of the links that Dennis posted spelled this out pretty clearly. Good Luck!
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Unbolt the axle flange bolts. Slide the axle straight out. After axle has been slid out, remove outer bearing nut from within the hole behind where the axle flange covered. You may need to bend the castle washer tabs to allow the bearing nuts to turn out. There are two bearing nuts snugged into each other to lock the bearing in. The castle washer is between them, with a tab bent over to keep them from backing out. The castle washer has a keyway to lock it to the spindle. You'll see how it works when you are in there. Slide out the drum. As stated before here, make sure that the brakes are backed off so the shoes are not holding the drum in (if a lip has formed.) Make sure to replace the castle washer and grease seal when re-assembling.
This is called a free floating axle and is typical on heavy duty truck applications.
You should invest in a Haynes Truck manual for your year and make of truck. It will help you alot.
ps. The axle hub you described is actually called an axle flange.
Good Luck. If you need anymore help, just ask.
This is called a free floating axle and is typical on heavy duty truck applications.
You should invest in a Haynes Truck manual for your year and make of truck. It will help you alot.
ps. The axle hub you described is actually called an axle flange.
Good Luck. If you need anymore help, just ask.
Last edited by olfordsnstone; Mar 13, 2005 at 04:53 PM. Reason: clarification
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thanks alot oldford, Is there any special socket you need to take the bearing nuts off? I have alot of tools, just don't want any suprises before i get into it. I just got the truck and in manitoba we need to safety the vehicles before we register them. I noticed the emergency brake cabels are loose , for some reason they are both dissconnected on the inside of the drum. The cables are not seized. Alot of trouble to just hook up the cables!!
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I used a block of wood for a parking brake in my old truck. My 74 has cables working so far. There is a socket for that bearing nut and I don't remember what size it is. You can also use a screw driver and a hammer believe it or not, if you put the screw driver against the nut just right and tap the handle to jar the nut to back it off. Sometimes, you may see where someone has done this before when you see a dig mark on the edge of the nut. It is better to get the socket to do it right. You dont want to torque those nuts on too tight either. Tighten, back off, then good and snug is good (red neck way). The castle washer will hold them into place when you bend the tabs over the nut. (dont forget to use a new castle washer!) I used to use the old castle washers, but ONCE I had my bearing nuts back out due to a stripped out keyway on the castle washer. My entire rear axle, drum and tire came off going about 65 MPH. Wooooooa, that wasn't fun. Now I always put on a new one.
Also, make sure to clean and pack the bearings with lots of grease. It is a good idea to replace the grease seal too, as if this leaks, it will contaminate your brake shoes when oil comes out of the axle housing into the drum.
It would be good to get a Haynes manual to make sure that you do it to specs ie torque etc.
Hope this helps, Tim
Also, make sure to clean and pack the bearings with lots of grease. It is a good idea to replace the grease seal too, as if this leaks, it will contaminate your brake shoes when oil comes out of the axle housing into the drum.
It would be good to get a Haynes manual to make sure that you do it to specs ie torque etc.
Hope this helps, Tim
Last edited by olfordsnstone; Mar 13, 2005 at 05:51 PM.
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Pantherscat, I should mention that there are varying feelings on those bearing nuts. Some feel that you should tighten them up. I think that the term I used "snug" is interpreted differently. I just have a feel for what it should be at and would have a hard time translating that into a torque spec. the haynes book and the correct socket and a torque wrench would be the safer way.
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I'm sure you will do fine. It should all come out straight forward for you when you get in there. It does help when you have someone around who has done it before but you should be fine. Once again good Luck, Tim