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A friend of mine let me play with his Harbor Freight mig. I thought it (or I) did pretty well for not having welded with that before. I learned arc welding in high school, but that was a few moons ago. I've heard always buy a quality welder from everyone though. There's a bit of temptation for a cheeper unit for sure.
For someone who has never welded. Wants to learn. Has lots of patience and time. Can only buy one machine. Wants to be able to do welding jobs for own self - mainly automotive. And has dreams of building a car trailer.
What would be the recommended machine? Sorry "let someone else do it" is not a choice.
For Mig a Millermatic 210 at $1,249 or better yet the Miller 251 Millermatic $1,762. Get the biggest welder you can afford as to be underpowered you'll hate the welder and self. I'm on welder number 9 and 10, Miller 350 Synchrowave fully loaded for Tig and a Millermatic 251 with 30A spoolgun for production aluminum welding. Buy not rent your bottles as this is cheaper per cu/ft and get large 280 cu/ft bottles. Practice alot as posted above. Even if you don't weld for a while you'll get rusty, then again practice. Reason speaking about Millers, I have had Lincoln's, Hobart's and used beyond death Millers and Millers have been the most durable and the best for fast replacement parts and factory tech questions.
For all around welding, frames, trailers, "custom exhaust" go with Mig. Be sure to weld up plant hangers picnic tables and such so the wife won't get mad at your big purchase. I thought I had it all figured out and sold the Hobart Beta 250 with spoolgun, then got the 350 Synchrowave. Tig was a whole new learning experience and alot slower. "Must get another Mig", hence the 251. On the Tig, aluminum will eat amps thats why the 350 Synchrowave. On the Miller 251, I used a 210 Miller, also a great machine but I have a thing about duty cycle and power hence the 251. I had a price offer in 2002 from our supply house for the 251 with two flow gauges, a two bottle rack and the 30A spoolgun for $2,506 out the door in my truck. Sorry 210 mr. 251 won. Go with solid wire and gas (C25 less splatter) vs straight CO2. Innershield (without gas) is messy and smokey. If you can swing it get a good auto-darkening helmet. Some people prefer fixed darkness lenses, head flippers. With auto-darkening you can change from #9 up to #13 (high or low amps and welding brightness) for Tig and Mig and can get the arc (Tig) or wire on the weld area instead of helmet flipping and arcing all over your work. Go to "Miller Welds" on the net, Andy is Millers answer man and the forum has a Q and A section that might help as pros answer on that forum. Done rambling, best of luck.
Reg, sorry on the last post I forgot to answer about welding aluminun. Yes it's hard and different vs steel, to say i'm good would be foolish. Anyone can weld but are they a welder? Old self taught "bad habits" are hard to unlearn, thats me. A lifetime friend of my dads who is 83 welded aluminum aircraft parts for the navy for many years, to watch him weld brings tears to my eyes, he's a welder.
Carl....=o&o>....
TIG vs. MIG, good question. As far as ease of welding and overall use the mig is the way to go. It can be used to weld sheet metal and if your machine is big enough very thick material. I have welded 3 in thick material, with alot of preperation of couse.
I like a tig for thin material but it can also weld thick stuff too. The biggest disadvantage I've found with the tig is out of position welding, if you need a filler rod.
I have to agree that Miller is the best manufacturer of welders.
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