ok, as i wait for my parts to come in to replace my back calipers, would it be a bad idea to remove the driver side ( the one that is actually shot ), and just put a block of wood inside it and strap it somewhere out of the way? this will still give me 3 sets, but is that a bad idea? it will take a couple days to get my parts, as i live on a small island in alaska, and then i could still use my truck without having a brake drag on me. when the parts do come in, i am going to replace both rear calipers(with new pads), and re-turn the rotors. thanks for your advice in advance.

 

bad idea, deal with the drag

 

well, what about the extreme heat that is being produced for now???

 

If you do that, the truck will pull EXTREMELY hard to the right whenever you hit the brakes. Calipers are cheap...just get a new (rebuilt) one from the local parts house.

 

Go to NAPA (though being on a small island, probably not) and get a brass or steel plug and plug off the master cyl. port that feeds that circuit.

If that might be too much trouble, then go to the hose for the rear axle and plug it there with a female cap and put a male plug into the union to keep out dirt and such. Get it at the axle, not up in the frame.

On an island you are driving slow, so one set of brakes would be okay for a while. You would still have the parking brakes too.

NAPA usually has a small box filled with different hydraulic unions and plugs. Yours will most likely be 3/16. Even a brass plumbing item would be okay for a short duration, they should be a NPT fit anyways.

 

tragic..... so i just dont understand how having a rear caliper unhooked will pull the truck.... i could totally see how that would work with a front caliper though. but, rebarcdo, im sure that our napa here has the fittings i would need...... and if not, i would bet i could find some here at our coast guard base industrial shop. i will just try that for a little while. but thanks for the advice for now..... i will let yo know how it all turns out.

 

Matt, there are many reasons not to remove the caliper including the caliper on many vehicles helps locate the rotor. I do not know what vehicle you have.

The plugs will work fine, are cheap, and low headache for a remote location. If I am going off road, I sometimes carry a plug that fits the master cyl in case I rip a hose or line and can not fix it. Once the line is plugged, remove your wheel and make sure the rotor can turn freely. If not, with channel locks or something, press the caliper slightly with the plug cracked to ease the piston back a hair.

Unless you have the type where the piston rotates inward (like a Taurus etc.) with a special tool, then you better pick one of those tools up for about $10 at most auto parts stores and looks like a small cube. If you are near a Coast Guard station I bet a mechanic already has one you could borrow.

Unless your caliper comes loaded, you might have to back the new piston in a hair to fit the new pads. I have done it with water pump plyers in a pinch, but, it messes the piston up.

Then tighten the plug.

If your rear rotor has a parking brake with mini drums inside like the Explorer, make sure the drum shoes are not sticking because of ice freezing inside or being rusted solid from salt water.