GEAR info needed
#16
Speedo was still reading fast on the intial load ... so I bumped "up" the revs/mile 3 notches ... sorry, a correction on the 4 from above ... 4 was how many times I loaded tune last night.
As for the shift points, they were way too high in my book at well over 5k ... brought mine way back down to 4700 something for 1-2 and 4800 something for 2-3. 3-4 is at 5k and that still gets a touch of belt squeal so I'll probably bring it down to 4800ish on my next load. And on the firmness settings I have all points set far left to the stock position. Still kicks a nice solid shift with some throttle while staying nice and smooth the rest of the time.
I'm guessing mine can't suck or blow enough air to really pull any power past or near 4900 RPMs as the rest is all stock.
As for the shift points, they were way too high in my book at well over 5k ... brought mine way back down to 4700 something for 1-2 and 4800 something for 2-3. 3-4 is at 5k and that still gets a touch of belt squeal so I'll probably bring it down to 4800ish on my next load. And on the firmness settings I have all points set far left to the stock position. Still kicks a nice solid shift with some throttle while staying nice and smooth the rest of the time.
I'm guessing mine can't suck or blow enough air to really pull any power past or near 4900 RPMs as the rest is all stock.
#17
BlkButy, is it possible to make your truck look any better? I love your truck!
everyone above is pretty much on the money. according to my calculations, if you did nothing, adding 37" would effectively turn your 3.73 into 3.13's - kinda weak hugh.
4.45's would return you to stock, but since there's no such thing, go with 4.56's at a minimum.
everyone above is pretty much on the money. according to my calculations, if you did nothing, adding 37" would effectively turn your 3.73 into 3.13's - kinda weak hugh.
4.45's would return you to stock, but since there's no such thing, go with 4.56's at a minimum.
#19
Do you think that will be enough? It seems like 4:56 precision gears with the predator are the way to go. Like I said earlier I'm pretty new to this, and from the feedback I'm getting back that seems like the right combo, then again I don't have any plans on towing, I just want better acceleration in the city, and from what I'm hearing the MPG get a little better in the city, I don't have a heavy foot, buy every once in while I want to give those Dodge & Chevy trucks a little run for there money. Thanks for everybodys help. I want to have my truck in the shop soon, and I just want to make sure I make the right decision.
#20
#22
#23
#24
#25
Originally Posted by Ford-man22
Hey guys, I just got the Reider Gears 2005 catalog today. They DO NOT make a Percision Gear 4.88 for an 8.8 Reverse cut front end. Only 4.56. So I guess the 4.88 is out the window.
#26
Originally Posted by grey77
Just a question - because these trucks are "computer" controlled, do the (truck) computers need to be "informed" of the new gear ratio, or what? For sure the speed odometer can be thrown off, but are any other truck "systems" effected, by the new gear ratio I mean???
I still drove it every day. When the tuner arrived I dialed it in and things are back to, or feel, normal. Actually better than normal.
So, my thought is … yes, the computer needed to match what was going on rotationally. Just my unscientific opinion based on how things felt.
#28
Originally Posted by ttymen
What brand and model tuner did you go with?
04 SCrew 4x4, Volant w/ram, Corsa Touring, 4.56 R&P
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Johnlwlr
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
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09-22-2010 10:17 AM