This may be a long post but I really hope someone will share some wisdom with me. This is my first diesel.

I have a '90 E350 cutaway chassis with an RV on top. When I bought it I was told it had 165,000 miles. Obviously, you can't be sure because of only 5 digits in the odometer. It has started on the first turn of the key and run great until now. Over the last few weeks, it has been getting increasingly difficult to start (you may have seen my other posts). I only drive it 2 or 3 times a week for presentations. It is a mobile showroom. I assumed it was glow plugs or controller. Last Wednesday, it refused to start (cold day). The towtruck operator suggested a shop that I take it to. The next day, after spending the night plugged in, I was able to get it started. I took it straight to the shop the guy told me about.

The mechanic called me within a couple of hours of dropping it off and informed me that my glow plugs and controller were fine. (I can tell you the cycle time is good - 10-15 secs). He said my compression was low in three cylinders, and that was the cause of failing to start. He went on to say that once we get into the warm season (50F+), I will probably get through the summer with no problem noticed (until it gets cold again). He went on to say that the engine was covered in oil and had terrible blowby conditions. He, again, told me of the low compression in three cylinders. I asked him how low, and he said that he didn't actually do a compression test. He simply said that he has been doing this long enough that he could tell by the combination of the sound, blowby and external oil. He stated that I must be losing a ton of oil. In summary, he said I need to keep it plugged in or hope for warm weather and plan on replacing the engine soon.

Am I crazy or can someone (regardless of their experience level) really tell compression loss by sound? I have not noticed any significant oil consumption. Since yesterday, I drove it almost 400 miles. I checked the oil before I left. I could not check the level tonight because it is raining too hard. Should 400 miles be enough to notice consumption? This thing runs GREAT once it is running. I find it real hard to believe that the engine is toast.

Does this make sense to you out there? Thanks Much!

 

BTW - it starts great within 4 hours after running and warm.

 

If he can guess there are 3 low cyl., Why is he still working? He should have been able to guess the power ball lottery by now. You can see blowby, but that eyeball compression test is new to me. Maybe I need new glasses.
No way to know about the acuracy of the mileage/OD. If it is correct, your most likely problem is still somewhere in the GP's or you have an air leak in the fuel system--maybe he can guess---Nevermind.
Also want to check both batteries and make sure you have good clean connections. Clean the engine off real good and then observe for leaks. You might find that is where all your oil coverage is coming from.
Just my opinion. Good luck.

 

Did he happen to say what 3 cyl are low?
Regardless, unless the compression test is done, it is just guessing at this point. At best an educated guess.

 

No - he just said that 3 cylinders were low. I asked him which 3 and how low. That is when he told me that he had not done a compression test...he just new. He said he didn't want to waste my money doing a full compression test because he already knew what the problem was. Thanks for the favor but somebody has to do it!

 

sound like he doesn't want to work on it for you... have you pulled the doghouse (engine cover) and see if it is really oily??? also a motor can be covered in oil by a leaky valve cover's....I would say you have a GP control problem or a Glow Plugs themselve are bad I would GET a second opion on this...

 

I pulled the doghouse on Saturday and noticed oil leaking from the valve covers (not much though). Three or four valve cover bolts were very loose (hand tight). I tightened them. I had the batteries checked today and both checked out fine per the load test at AutoZone.

 

I'd replace the valve cover gaskets, I did this on my 86, due to age not mileage, but no more leaks. That wouldn't cause your starting problem though. Get it checked at a real mechanic, not some guy who gets kick backs from the tow company.

 

bama man, you stated that you plugged in the block heater before taking it to the shop ... Did this seem to help start the critter ?? Are you sure the heater is working?? Eyeball or earball, compression testing is a new deal to me. I'd shoot for the glow plugs or controller or somewhere in the glow plug system to make sure ALL is working. Did auto zone disconnect the jumper wire between the batteries before checking ??? When it starts, does it keep running smoothly or seem to surge or want to quit (running out of fuel)? A sign of air leak in the fuel system (which is a closed system). Hope this helps you out at where to look. Out.

 

If I use the block heater it starts after 2 or 3 8 second start cycles. Without the heater it is a 'no go'. That tells me the heater is working.

GP or controller was my first thought and what I took it to the mechanic for. That is when he gave me the news about the compression.

AutoZone did NOT disconnect the jumper. I guess that renders their test useless. Do they also need to totally disconnect each battery? This is a very good observation, bilder12.

Once it kicks over on it's own, it runs smoothly immediatly and will do it all day regardless of speed or load condition.

Thanks much and I look to hear more from you all.

 

I'd have the batteries checked with each one disconnected from the other. It could be that simple. Your engine isn't turning over fast enough to ignite the fuel when it's cold.

Now this mechanic telling you your three cylinders are low on compression. How does he know it's three, and not two or four? As others have indicated, it's just his way of saying he doesn't want to work on it. An oily engine does not indicate anything other then oil leaking from something. Blowby would indicate some internal wear, but once again, it could be a dirty CDR valve. You need to find someone who's more open minded about your truck.

Maybe there's someone on the BB that's close enough to help. Post your location and perhaps you'll find out.
len

 

I'm in Roswell, Georgia, just north of Atlanta.

 

When you test the batteries all you have to do is remove the positive lead from one battery. Then they are isolated from each other.

Because of the compression of a diesel they have a lot more blow by than a gas motor does.

I bet that guy can tell you how much oil is in the engine without pulling the dip stick for a follow up trick.

If you need test proceedures we can help you through this better than the psychic mechanic can. He wants to make your money mystically dissapear in large quantaties.

Are you in the georgia chapter? Your chapter leader F350woman came to our WV chapter first meet and greet.

 

If it starts with the block heater, and doesn't start without the block heater, - it SOUNDS (wink) like the glow plug system.

 

Today I added another battery to the mix just to ensure that the batteries are not the problem. I jumped from the battery on my gasser. It is about 4 months old, 935 CCA. This would have given me a total of nearly 3000 CCA between the 3 batteries. It made no difference trying to start. It still will not start unless you plug it in for a few hours. It is +/- 48F now. Where do I go from here? How hard is it to check the glow plugs on the E body? What do I need to do it.