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Old Mar 7, 2005 | 06:04 PM
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Serious Clutch Problems

Hey, I have a big problem with my clutch. When I bought the truck, the engine was toasted so I put in another 2.8L. I only put in a new clutch disk and everything else seemed to look alright. It all worked fine but now when my clutch is engaged (pedal up) It makes a squeaking sound like the clutch is slipping, and when I push the pedal down it makes a scratching sound like the clutch is not releasing fully. I looked under my truck and there is a gray looking fluid around where the bellhousing bolts to the block. Could my slave-cylinder be leaking. Help please.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2005 | 08:04 PM
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Slave cylinders can sometimes go out as fast as you can drink a can of pop. Sometimes they last forever, almost. Yes it could be leaking. The chatter could be the throwout bearing going bad, or is bad. Does it feel like its slipping when its making this noise??? Before I put the 302 in mine my 2.8 would spin my clutch like I buttered it up. When they slip you should be able to feel it, like take off in 1st at a slow idle then hammer the gas. Is there a hesitation from when the engine picks up to when the acceleration hits. It could also have a warped flywheel inducing it, or possible a bad pilot bearing. When you have the clutch pedal pushed down does it still feel like its trying to pull??? I learned the hard way about having a engine or tranny out and not replacing everything clutch wise (bearings, clutch plate, and pressure plate) everything that is inside. I did what you did once, because I was short on cash. I would have been way ahead to wait and do it all. That was on a 75 corolla. It helped out a little, but the pressure plate wasn't clamping hard enough, even though it looked fine. It burned the disk up way faster with all the slippage and I had a major loss of performance as well. I used the car off-road. its on my page with my b2. cardomain.com/id/bigfry
good luck.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 10:41 AM
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I was thinking that mabey the throw-out bearing could be bad. What happens when I drive is that if I'm just idleing around in gear it squeks like crazy and if I just give it a little gas then it still squeks, but if I stand on it, it stops squeking. It could just be that it is such a high pitch and I can't hear it. I have noticed that it does lack a bit in acceleration. If I change the slave cyilnder, will the clutch stop slipping. Thanks for the help.
Nic
 
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 07:31 PM
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Well something else that I thought of, before I address your question. You said it had a fluid at the bellhousing. That gray fluid is probably dirty gear fluid. Or that it had a lot of metal dust in it. You should also drain it from the tranny and refill with clean gear lube. That grayish fluid might also be the cause of your problems. It could be all over your clutch disc and pressure plate. That would cause slipping and squealing. When I say lacks acceleration, you need to be very specific. I understand the stock engine can be lacking in the power department, but do you mean it lacks acceleration in general, or can you like I said above, go ahead and take off, and knowing the clutch is engaged. Then floor it, if your engine revs real high real quick but your takeoff doesn't match your engine revving like you just gently accelerated and it finally catches, that would be a very loose clutch. What you were talking about that it stops whan you floor it that could just be a change in pitch due to speed of the flywheel. That also kind of sounds like it could be some sort of vaccume leak under there. I have had vacuum leaks that would silence when floored. No changing the slave cylinder won't help you. Thats just there to disengage the clutch. Now another possibility is it is out of adjustment. The slave cylinder is there to disengage, so if its adjusted to tight it can be slightly holding pressure on the throwout bearing, causing extra wear to it, plus it would be pushing on the pressure plate giving you less holding pressure. Kinda like driving with you foot on the clutch. You could try adjusting it to where when you push on the clutch you have a inch or two of movement before it starts to disengage it, but not too much that when you push it further it doesn't disengage totally. They have to have a happy medium. That way the throwout bearing comes totally off the pressure plate when the pedal is released, but that it pushes it hard and far enough with the pedal pressed that it totally released the clutch disc. Try that stuff. You will still probably need to address the leak. Probably take the tranny off eventually, clean the leak off properly, get a new pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and clutch disc, because once its gotten nastiefied by the grease, it will never grip like it should, oh and fix the leak or make some provision for it to no longer leak onto the clutch. Tell me how that hits ya and if theres any other info you can give on the problem.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by bigfry
When they slip you should be able to feel it, like take off in 1st at a slow idle then hammer the gas. Is there a hesitation from when the engine picks up to when the acceleration hits.
I did that and the truck accelerates with the engine. I also did that in rev. and the tires chirped so I don't think that it slips too much.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 04:59 AM
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sounds like it must be out of align somehow, or the throwout bearing is bad, but it shouldn't be touching anything to make a sound when the clutch is released, the pilot bearing could be shot, its on the tip of the imput shaft at the flywheel. Its always spinning. Or worse, it could be a bearing in the transmission/transfer case or gears about to go. Dang, theres a lot of reasons you could get those types of sounds.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 03:34 PM
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Well, I'm going to change the throw-out bearing. Would it be easier to oull the engine or drop the trans.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 10:26 PM
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I'd say easier to pull the trans. There you would only need to remove driveshafts, shifters, speedo cable, 4x4 light wire etc, the slave cylinder, the skid plate, then unbolt her. A lot of small stuff, and don't get squashed. I don't think the engine would be easier, you'd have to deal with unhooking the exhaust, fuel lines, wiring, radiator hoses, probably radiator, vacuume lines, power steering lines, A/C unhook, heater hoses, a LOT OF STUFF. Then youd probably have to remove the rad like I said because you would have to have room to slide it forward off the shaft. Pull the tranny. The stuff you remove is alot more straight forward when replacing back into position. While its off replace everything that you didn't the pressure plate, pilot bearing, and if the clutch disc has been oil impregnated replace it and figure out how to keep it clean... Possibly need to have the flywheel resurfaced, I didn't when I was messing with my yota, but probably should have, but who knows, maybe you can check it with a straight edge to see if its warped or overly worn. If its warped definitely have it resurfaced. Have fun, I'm having plenty myself.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 11:39 PM
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I'm not so enthusiastic about replaceing the clutch disk because it only has 10.5 km on it. I don't have my license yet so all it sees is around the cul-de-sac a bit. I want to get all the work finished on my truck before I get my license (12 days). I think that I will drop the trannie because like I said before. I put the engine in and once was enough for me.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 05:20 AM
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OH dang your a youngin aren't ya. No disrespect. I wish I was still 15 to 16. And I didn't start learning till I was 18. When I was 16 I could barely change a hose. Yea, no need to replace the disc, [U]BUT if there is oil all over it, it will not catch like it should. I mean, you could try just doing the throw-out bearing, cause I understand at that age money doesn't come in handfuls, and waiting to gain enough cash at that age is like asking you to cut off your legs. So if cash is a problem, and I imagine you value your money right now more than time, just doing the throw out bearing is ok, just know you might have to pull it back off at some point, of course I guess you could say you might have to for any reason. Oh and please replace the pilot bearing. It goes on the end of the imput shaft at the flywheel, and might be stuck in there when you pull the tranny off. REPLACE IT. A new one should only be a couple of bucks. I mean if the pressure plate or clutch disc, go out, you only lose grip, however if that pilot bearing goes out you could lose your tranny, due to misalignment, and excessive wear. Good luck, any questions just ask, and just so you know I have the 2.8 with the tranny still attached sitting in my shop, so I can go look and see any problems or questions you might have. I just used a A/A to put the transfer case on my V8. Let me know how its going.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 05:21 AM
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Oh ya, and I can act 5 or 6. The only times I act mature is when I need to. I'm usually right along there with my 3 year old playing with his toys.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 10:37 AM
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I plan to pull everything in the future and drop in a 302 (or 351W). The reason I don't want to spend too much $$ is because once I get my license. I need to get Air-Care ($37-ish) and insurance ($1800-$2000).
 

Last edited by Bronco2Nic; Mar 31, 2005 at 10:40 AM.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 07:32 PM
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What is Air-Care and your insurance is that expensive. Hey do you have a PS2. Have you played Mercenaries. That game is fun. I got the pieces for my brakes. Hey did you know the perportioning Valve on the 84 and probably yours costs to replace from LMC truck... 249.95 Thats a Rip off. All it is, is a brass distribution block with a plunger in it. I made my own rear disc brakes from a 89 caravan and when I went to bleed them, I couldn't get fluid out the back. I found that valve and the plunger was stuck. Its supposed to stay centered until a pressure drop and slide that way shuting it off. Then recenter once the line is fixed and pressure is hit. It was malfunctioning. So I just pulled the plunger out. Worked fine but I guess the front discs are more efficient than the rears and would lock the front and barely apply the rears. So I tried to cram a bolt thru the block to seal it and used a good sealer as well but it still dripped. 250 bucks. THat wouldn't work anyway. I got a 3 way splitter and a 2 way union at NAPA for 3.99 .. Which will do exactly what I was wanting, to seperate the two portions of the master cylinder. If that doesn't change it enough, I will put a porportioning valve 30 bucks on the front end, to lower pressure so I can get it evened out. That and my electric fan now doesn't want to kick off. Brand new black magic flex a lite fan. 200 bucks it better start working right soon.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bigfry
What is Air-Care...
Air Care is a stupid polution test that all vehicles registerd in the fraser valley under 5000Kg (11,000lbs). You have to pass a visual inspection ( use a mirror on a stick to look for a cat and muffler and they check for a gas cap.) and a dyno test to check for contaminants in the exhaust. It sucks.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 02:04 PM
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Well, aren't I dumb. I went under today to take out the trannie. and I saw that everything was loose. I tightend all the bolts up and now the noise is gone. I guess that when ever I pushed on the clutch, the engine and trannie. would move appart just a but and that would make it so the clutch wouldn't release completely.
 
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