SXT Add Ons Question
Wes
Proud owner of:
2005 Black SXT 4.6L
1999 Black XLT Ext 5.4L
I have been told that if you want to add cruse control you just need to get the steering wheel with the controls on it. Anyone know if this is true?
I have been told that if you want to add cruse control you just need to get the steering wheel with the controls on it. Anyone know if this is true?
Also Joe. My favorite team the Tar Heels have your hometown boy Marvin Williams on the team. We love this guy here in NC. Thanks for loaning him to us for a couple years...
Cruise wheels run about 50-60 on the aftermarket, and 30-80 gets the dealer to turn on the cruise function in the PCM.
Aftermarket power windows will set you back about 100-350 depending on doing it yourself, and which kit you like. Mine cost under 60 bucks, including express up and down on both windows. You will probably pay more, I do a lot of bargain hunting.
Power door locks sell for about 5-10 bucks a door. Very easy to install. Use a keyless remote. From a good dealer, Keyless remote for two doors should set you back about 50-60 bucks and about two hours work. It's hobby level work. You can also change your front speakers at the same time, tossing the 25 watt stock ones for something that lasts.
625 for power windows and door locks, if it includes keyless, and the proper door panels, and express down is not out of line. But if it's dealer installed aftermarket, not a bargain at all.
Some of the trucks have a dealer installed drivers power door lock, an option the dealer trys to sell you. Mine had it, but I didn't pay for the option, so the dealer cut the wires at the door sill. When I was putting in power windows and locks, I found the relays and the door lock. The dealer did not do a very good job. I cleaned up their install, and used their lock for my drivers door.
Many dealers send that kind of work out, to the cheapest shop in the area.
Better to do it yourself, or find a small shop willing to do simple jobs for a decent price.
Chris
I will look again.Who did you get your stuff through?
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...t=power+window
is a link to one of my long winded posts on the stuff in this thread.
I've since added quite a bit to my truck, but then, that's been my main hobby for the last three-four months.
And I get off on getting very low prices. Example, my power seats cost me 255.00 shipped. I then swapped the rails, and sold the now manual seats for 90.00.
Net cost so far, 155.00. But I have left over heated seat pads and modules, (Don't need them here in the desert), and memory seat module. Gonna get the net down under a hundred, I bet.
Like I say, I'm a bargain hunter.
Well have fun upgrading and moding,
Chris
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
If anyone has a specific part I will post who is good, if I have bought from them.
Chris
Chris, When you say you got power seats was that the seats and rails along witht the wiring etc... That is a helluva price if so. Question, Is there already installed the wiring to add the seats even if the truck came with manual seating?
Thanks for the info
To take it in order, I got the complete seats. Headrest, lumbars power, memory, heated, two tone gray Supercrew seats, out of a low mileage 2004. Price 255.00 including shipping to my door. One seat was dropped by UPS, and landed on one of the rear corners.
If you ship these seats, run the seat all the way back, this seat was all the way forward. Bent the 'all-thread' that revolves to move the seat back and forth. I had to straighten the all-thread, wasting a couple of hours playing with it in the vice till it was back to spec. Wasn't worth a hassle with OOPS.
Because they were Supercrew seats, no seat belt on the seat. I would have swapped the entire seat, half hour for both, but no top belts. Then I would have had to get a dark gray center seat, but I did like the two tone very much.
So since I had to keep my seats, I removed the bases and traded them. The manual bases went on the two tone Supercrew seats.
The two cool looking two tone Manual seats I sold to a youngster that wanted to put them in a 97. Dunno if they worked, but for the 90 bucks I charged him, he was happy.
I removed the heating elements, The memory stuff, and the passenger lumbar. I put the passenger lumbar in my passenger seat, so now I have lumbar on both sides. The heating pads are in the classifieds here, and the memory module is in a drawer.
I could add it, but it would require I yank the drivers seat again. But I never change the seat, just back and forth three inches between me and the wife, and sometimes I raise the front. What's to remember?
Now on to the real question, is there wireing. NO Darn, it. I've swapped seats in Grand Cherokees, Chevy sedans, etc. And the harness was always there, stashed under the carpet. Ford had a better idea. Save a buck.
Still not a problem. I grounded it through the seat mounting bolts, and thus I only had to run one ten gauge wire from the battery. I could have tapped it somewhere, but I like discreet circuits. If I blow the 20 amp fuse under the hood, nothing else would be affected. The carpet comes right up, and there is a great channel under each door sill. The seats are always 'live', but that's the way most power seats are.
Do they work well? Yup. Raising the front a little makes my legs less tired on the highway. I just leave the passenger all the way back, but I do like changing the angle. And the lumbar is nice for the passenger too.
Added bonus info;
Since your seats are in great shape already (I would hope), you can get pretty thrashed (read accident) seats if you wanted, then strip the goodies. You can use memory seats for regular seats, just gotta cut and solder 8 wires.
You can use Supercrew seat power bases, but you will have to make two small changes when you transfer them over, both related to the 'tip forward' aspect of the regular cab. Dunno about the Supercab seats. I think they are the same as the Reg.
On a reg cab, you also may have to polish the edges of the child seat mounting hardware. It wanted to dig into the seat when the passenger seat was tilted forward. A few minutes with a moto tool removed the offending sharp edges on the bend forward parts. Didn't hurt anything, they just left it pretty rough and that would have eventually torn the fabric. Or at least made a noise when you adjusted the seat.
Chris
When you have the dealer do it, it depends on the dealer.
Optimum, he will replace your door panels, give you stock switches, add the power windows/locks, activate the remote keyless and give you two remotes. This would be about 1000-1200 bucks worth of parts, and several hundred worth of labor.
I suspect for this he would charge 1500-2000.
If you could get that for 650 bucks, I would not hesitate. At 800, I would think about it. Your mileage may vary...
If it must appear stock, you can buy the panels, usually about 100 each on e-bay. Buy the switches, about 30-60 delivered. Get the A1Electric OEM window kit, about 280-300 to your door. Get power door locks, (they are all about the same) and have them turn on your remote locking and get two remotes. 800.00 bucks plus labor.
If you are swapping the panels, and using the OEM kit, 90% of the work is drawing cables through the door and across behind your dash. Three hours for a pro, six for a hobbist.
If you only want it to look nice, Colibri kit, and buy A1electrics best three switch set.
Get a good keyless entry with door lock actuators for about 60.00 bucks on e-bay. Put two small surface mount tweeters over your two crank holes. They cost about 25 bucks to your door, and it will look totally cool. Heck, it will even sound better.
250.00 plus labor. about three hours for a pro, about 6 for a hobbist.
You pays your money, you takes your choices.
The local dealer here, won't add anything that didn't come from the factory. Period.
The dealer I bought from will add anything you want, but don't expect Ford factory parts. The cheaper, the better, put on by 'undocumented' aliens.
Then stand there and insist it was done by professionals. I've watched some great fights in their service department.
Me, I do my own work unless it's under warrenty. Then I stand and watch if possible. I started as a Ford mechanic, and may the Lord have mercy on the owners of the cars I 'fixed' that first year....
Chris


