Well I just bought a 93' bronco with a 5.0 engine. The truck is an automatic with 4 wheel drive. First problem on the way home with it it started knocking pretty loud, I noticed that the oil gauge was not reading any pressure. I pulled off the side of the freeway and checked it out and there was a probly 1/2" hose that plugs into the side of the airfilter box that was disconnected. I plugged it back in no luck, I thought maybe it was a vacumm line or something. Anyhow the knock gots worse and the truck stalled once while I was trying to get off the freeway. I parked it and had it towed. I'm thinking it's a oil pump, but I would like to know what you guys think is going on.

Another thing is with the 4 wheel drive, It has the push button (on the dash) 4 wheel with manuel hubs. When I locked the hubs and hit the 4 wheel button I didn't get any light next to the button, I also tried the low range button and no light either. I was on the street and I couldn't really tell if the 4 wheel engaged or not, whats the deal with the lights and how can I tell if the 4 wheel is working or not.

Thanks John

 

sounds like you bought yourself a problem truck. hope you didnt spend to much cause this could get expensive. your best bet would be to install a mechanical oil guage on your 302 because the stock gauges never work properly. as for the tcase there could many issues here being electric. you can try and figure out whats wrong or look into swaping in a manual Tcase which in my mind is far more reliable.

probably should have taken this rig down for inspection by a shop before you bought it.
keep us posted

 

Well I only spent $2000 for it, it's an EB, with clean int. and body. It's kind of a fixer upper anyhow, I only bought it because my F-150 is not 4 wheel drive and I needed a 4 wheeler for hunting. I've already thought of putting a new motor in it, I would just like to get it going for now, as for the 4 wheel drive I personally like a manual transfer case also, but this project is gonna take time and I would at least like to get it working (if it is not) tell I can get to all the upgrades and replacements I'm planning. One thing at a time right now. And first on my list is the motor. Anyhow, will it take a min. or two for the 4 wheel lights to come on, I know on some other vehicles it takes a little time for the 4 wheel indicator to light up, or does it light up as soon as you push the button.

 

Their is also a "4X4" light in the dash with the idiot lights that comes on when the 4 wheel drive is activated. Occasionally the light in the switch on my truck doesn't iluminate usually juat a short delay or turn it off and hit switch again. Try engaging in neutral or park you should hear or feel the transfer case engage. The transfer case motor does go out and may need to be replaced.
Good luck.

 

well with your motor, try installing the mechanical gauge to see what true oil pressure you have . replace the oil with a 10/40w and see how it does. while its idling take a broom handle and set it on the motor then to your ear, move it around some to try and locate were the knock is coming from. this will give you a general idea of if its piston slap, bad rod or main bearings etc...

let us know

 

Sorry to say you may have major problems. As Kem said, get an actual pressure gauge and change the oil/filter. Once you have a powerplant you can begin to address the 4wd. If there is anywhere in the world you'll get help, it's on this forum. Keep us posted as to your progress.

 

Kemicalburns- If he has the push button 4x4 and the 4lo button he should have autohubs, at least mine does. He stated he had manual hubs, so I wonder if somebody took out the auto hubs and replaced them with manual hubs. Or do you still need the electric shift even if you have manual hubs? (I'm so confused )

 

Apparently someone has replaced the auto hubs with manual. A common occurance. The electronic shift applies to the transfer case alone, not the hub engagement. Auto hubs do respond to manual or electronic engagement without the need to get out and select lock or unlock.

 

Thanks Tex! I was second guessing myself on that one. Makes sense though, you still have to engage the T-case wether or not they are manual or auto. I take it the auto hubs work on centrifucal force?

 

I didn't even think about the hubs, the hubs are manual warn hubs. Thanks for the reply guys, I dumped the oil yesterday and it looked like mettalic paint, not so good! Anyhow I guess I'm gonna replace the engine. I just got off the phone with the shop, and he gave me a price of $2500 for a remanufactured 300 HP 302 installed. the motor is bored .30 over (at my request). Does this sound pretty reasonable. It also comes with a 4 yr/ 48,000 mile warrenty that includeds parts and labor. what do you guys think, jump on it?

 

Memory lane again - I had a 74 Buick Regal with a 455 (it was VERY fast!) that I bought for $400. I never titled it or anything. One day it started to lose oil pressure, and I was going to replace the external oil pump on the 455, but then a rod started knocking so I just said the heck with it and drove it with the knock. Then we got invited to a New Year's Eve party in Riverside (CA) and I lived in Whittier so I decided to drive the Buick, and we had someone to follow us, so we went. About five of us including my young bride. As I reached the incline on the 57 freeway (I think it was the 57, it's been a while), the rod started knocking louder and the temp started climbing and the oil pressure gauge was below the bottom line and every red light in the dash was glowing - so I just floored it and it got louder and louder and it got VERY loud and then the car started going slower and slower and we were doing about 35, I remember cars passing us and looking at us like we were nuts (we were) - then it got real slow, like about 20 and there was all kinds of smoke coming out of the hood and it started coming up inside the car from the transmission hump and the vents, and the people in the back seat were starting to freak out, and then it got the absolute LOUDEST that you will ever hear a rod knock ---

--and then the whole car sort of jerked to the left, and there was the sensation of a giant chain snapping, then all was quiet and we drifted over to the side shoulder and grabbed what we could and got out. I hesitantly popped the hood and it was just solid smoke and I think some stuff was glowing but I'm not sure. And we got into the car behind us and left the Regal there forever, as far as I know.

The funny thing was that when my friend in the front seat described how it felt, he described it exactly as I felt it to be - he said he felt the whole car sort of jerk to the side and then it felt like a giant chain snapping. Odd. So I guess that is how all cars sound if you drive them literally to death.

By the way, I got all drunk at the New Year's party and lit a whole roll of firecrackers off in the host's kitchen. They kicked me out and I had to sleep in someone's car until morning when everyone left; and the hosts (her cousins, or something) NEVER forgave me.

 

ask him how they claim 300hp. remember this is a truck not a mustang and the builds for either engine are different. mustangs run Mass-air your bronco has speed density which means it cant handle radicle cams and such. the warranty seems nice but is this for a long block or short block?
are you looking to keep this for awhile and is this going to be used for what kinda of driving?
I would look into a 5.8 swap. do a search you will lots that have done this including me and was the best upgrade over a 302 i could have done. pm me if you have questions.
late

 

Like Kem said, that's really not the motor for a Bronco. To move like you're going to want to off road you need torque. Try a 351 swap and see what kind of pricing you get. I'm guessing an E4OD transmission? Get on the wild side and drop a 460 in it. You want torque, you got it.

 

The 300 hp is more of a guess, then fact. the shop told me this up front. I don't know about the mustang engines (which Im sure have less torque), but I'm not looking for anything extreme. I'm thinking I want to keep it as stock as possible. I've thought of droping in a 5.8, but the shops I have talked to don't want to do it. I'm not even sure if it's something I want to do right now. What I'm looking for is something reliable that can get me in and out of my hunting spots. I'm not really looking to do any major 4 wheeling or to take up 4 wheeling as a hobby (I have to many hobbies right now anyhow.)

I plan on running 35" tires and regearing with probly a locker in rear and limited in the front. As long as I have enough power to do basicly mild to moderate 4 wheeling then I'm happy.

Does 300 hp for a 302 sound like to high an estimate. The guy at the shop was saying Once the motor is remanufactered, and is bored .30 over it will produce somewhere in that range. Does this sound right to you guys? Anyhow, I'm pretty set on keeping the 302, is boring .30 over worth it, will I even be able to tell a difference, or would I be better off boring out as little as possible? Another reason I'm not wanting anything to extreme with this bronco is I've got a little girl on the way (in 2 1/2 months) And my single cab F-150 isn't going to cut it anymore. So it's going to be my family car/ hunting rig for now. Later on I plan on building a 66' to 74' bronco for a toy, but the house is going to have to come first or my girl will hang me. Thanks for all the good advice. I guess my next questions are should I go bored out or stay stock? What kind of hp and torque did the 302 broncos originally come with? And did the 4X4's come with a roller cam from the factory? Again thanks a bunch for the info and advice!


Oh and the warrenty is for a long block, everything will be replaced with exception of block, head casting, and cam.

 

Well, a factory fresh '93 5.0l yields 185 hp @ 3,800 rpm and 270 ftlbs. torque @ 2,400 rpm. .30 over won't yield an additional 115 hp, sorry. If the engine is rebuilt and done very well, flawlessly timed/tuned you may see a net increase of 3-5% which is within the range of error for the factory yield. There are quite a few things you can do to the 302 to make it a better powerplant and the 302 forum is a great place for that information. If your going to re-build it and not swap for an already rebuilt motot look into a Torquer style cam profile and it is far easier to fit shorty headers on an engine before installation, install an FIPK intake, and put a chip in the computer and tune it. Good luck.

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