Rebuild 302 or not ?
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Freshman User
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Rebuild 302 or not ?
My 1983 f150 has a 302 with auto/overdrive. the 302 oil pressure is failing and was wondering if I should rebuild it or maybe I should go with a 351. If I put in a 351 will it drop right in with out and mods. What years will fit? If I decide to rebuild, what is the average cost to have it done? Thanks guys
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Rebuild 302 or not ?
This is the most common question, rebuild or replace? Engines that will drop in and bolt up to your transmission are all carbureted Windsor engines from 1975-1986 from 302 to 400. It is far less expensive to get a good running 351W or 400 from a 77+ Thunderbird or a 400 from a 77+ Lincoln than rebuilding your tired old 302W. If you are going to rebuild your own engine, then you should do it right the first time by tearing it down to the bare block and heads, send them out for cleaning and magniflux and machine work. Toss everything you took off except the exhaust and intake manifolds and buy new. Yup! it will cost you in the ballpark of $2K to do it right. Used may run slightly more than one tenth that amount.
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Rebuild 302 or not ?
Thanks guy!That really helps, I would not be doing my own rebuild, I would have it done. I really would like to go with a bigger engine as I pull a travel trailer and could use more power. I was surprised that so many years engines would fit my truck, but thats great cuz it gives me a bigger choice. I am still debateing which way to go. My fear of getting a used engine is that it will be bad too. How do you determine if your getting a good one? Thanks again
83 150 XL short box flareside
302V8
edelbrock 4bl edelbrock intake manifold
MSD ignition
MSD blaster coil
3" exhaust
Chrome wheels
Two tone paint metalic green/ and white
83 150 XL short box flareside
302V8
edelbrock 4bl edelbrock intake manifold
MSD ignition
MSD blaster coil
3" exhaust
Chrome wheels
Two tone paint metalic green/ and white
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Joined: Apr 2000
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Rebuild 302 or not ?
the advice on years is good, but be careful of flywheel / engine balance. around 81, ford changed the balance on 302's. if you put 75 engine in with 83 flywheel, you will get a strange vibration that will drive you nuts trying to find cause of. .
if you want more power and minimal cost, the 351w is easiest, but it is not a direct replacement. the engine is wider, and therefore the exhaust is different.
if you want real power, get a 460 and a swap kit and go to town.
if you want more power and minimal cost, the 351w is easiest, but it is not a direct replacement. the engine is wider, and therefore the exhaust is different.
if you want real power, get a 460 and a swap kit and go to town.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 430
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From: Deatsville, AL
Rebuild 302 or not ?
FIRST check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. I just bought my '88 F-150 with a 302 and the seller thought it had low oil pressure and I was prepared to rebuilt it but the new gauge shows 60 pounds cold and 35 hot.
Bob
'66 7 Litre, top loader, 3.25 Traction-lock, Sidewinder Intake, SCJ Exhaust
'88 F150 LWB 4x2, XLT Lariat, 302, 5 speed, 3.08
'99 Ranger, 4x2, 3.0, 5 speed, 3.73 posi
Bob
'66 7 Litre, top loader, 3.25 Traction-lock, Sidewinder Intake, SCJ Exhaust
'88 F150 LWB 4x2, XLT Lariat, 302, 5 speed, 3.08
'99 Ranger, 4x2, 3.0, 5 speed, 3.73 posi
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Freshman User
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Rebuild 302 or not ?
I have recently replaced the sending unit for the oil pressure gauge. It shows tons of pressure when cold but, as it gets warm it starts falling to the point that it is far below the low mark when at idle. I just changed the oil and put in 20-50 to boost the oil pressure which did help bring up the pressure when driving but still at idle it shows no pressure. This engine runs so good and quiet that when I come to a stop sign I can hardly tell its running. I bought this truck just a year ago the guy told me that it was original miles 85000 but I now wonder if it isn't 185000. At this point it makes no difference cuz I love this truck, its my baby now so it will get what ever it needs 
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Joined: May 2001
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Rebuild 302 or not ?
I wouldn't blow that much money if it runs good.
You say it is silent at stops? If it truly had no oil pressure..... it WOULD NOT be silent. It'd sound like a jackhammer or at least a dumb kid with a drumstick was beating away under the hood. It might even start to sound like a diesel.
Are you sure it ain't an idiot guage? When you go down the road and romp down on it, does the pressure fluctuate or stay exactly the same? If it's a true guage, it should move a bit in relation to RPMs. My '82 will read around the "M" in normal at startup, but after I drive for a while, it drops to just before the "N". If I shut it off and restart it, it is back at the "M". That's an idiot guage. As long as it has a reading (i.e. not layin against the far left) you have oil pressure.
Basically, I'm rehashing the CHECK IT FOR SURE 'fore ya replace anything idea. Good luck.
You say it is silent at stops? If it truly had no oil pressure..... it WOULD NOT be silent. It'd sound like a jackhammer or at least a dumb kid with a drumstick was beating away under the hood. It might even start to sound like a diesel.
Are you sure it ain't an idiot guage? When you go down the road and romp down on it, does the pressure fluctuate or stay exactly the same? If it's a true guage, it should move a bit in relation to RPMs. My '82 will read around the "M" in normal at startup, but after I drive for a while, it drops to just before the "N". If I shut it off and restart it, it is back at the "M". That's an idiot guage. As long as it has a reading (i.e. not layin against the far left) you have oil pressure.
Basically, I'm rehashing the CHECK IT FOR SURE 'fore ya replace anything idea. Good luck.
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 430
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From: Deatsville, AL
Rebuild 302 or not ?
When I put my gauge on I found that the installed sending unit was for an idiot light. It was about 1 1/8 in diameter and about that tall. I replaced it with a new sending unit for a gauge (about 2 1/2 inches in diameter and 3 or 4 inches tall) and now my gauges moves as "crazy_goodolboy" describes.
You don't need to permanently install a mechanical gauge unless you want to. Just make sure you have a gauge sending unit so your oil pressure gauge reads properly then temporarily install the mechanical gauge and write down the pressure on the mechanical gauge and where the stock gauge is reading when the engine is cold and then again after it warms up. You can then take the machanical gauge off and just use your stock gauge knowing what the pressure is at acouple of points and guesitmating the other values.
Bob
'66 7 Litre, top loader, 3.25 Traction-lock, Sidewinder Intake, SCJ Exhaust
'88 F150 LWB 4x2, XLT Lariat, 302, 5 speed, 3.08
'99 Ranger, 4x2, 3.0, 5 speed, 3.73 posi
You don't need to permanently install a mechanical gauge unless you want to. Just make sure you have a gauge sending unit so your oil pressure gauge reads properly then temporarily install the mechanical gauge and write down the pressure on the mechanical gauge and where the stock gauge is reading when the engine is cold and then again after it warms up. You can then take the machanical gauge off and just use your stock gauge knowing what the pressure is at acouple of points and guesitmating the other values.
Bob
'66 7 Litre, top loader, 3.25 Traction-lock, Sidewinder Intake, SCJ Exhaust
'88 F150 LWB 4x2, XLT Lariat, 302, 5 speed, 3.08
'99 Ranger, 4x2, 3.0, 5 speed, 3.73 posi
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