Help!

Suddenly power windows wont work...

Hopefully its just a fuse or something, going to grab the book to see where fuse block is and where this fuse would be....

Any ideas? I have rear and drivers window stuck open!

Thanks,

Dave

 

Just saw that computer Mileage, odometer, computer cluster is out as well... Truck still starts and runs... Wierd....

 

Dang.
Check the ground by the door, next to the e-brake green screw. I see all those components junction there, and at the 'accessory delay relay'.
I think I would get it to a dealer as soon as possible. To bad these things happen on weekends.
Chris

 

30 Amp Relay in Manual, Could this control odometer cluster too? Position 401

 

Overhead lights do not work manually or automatic when door is open.

Radio does not work.

Pulled the position 401 30 Amp Circuit Breaker and put ohm meter on it and it pegs the ohm meter, I assume this means that it is fine, or could there be another issue?

Thanks for any help that you may provide....

 

Relay in RO2? What does it do and how can you test it other than replace it?


Thanks....

 

Dave...pls check your other posted topic...got some WDM info for ya...

 

Don, thanks... You are the man! Wish I knew where you got all that info!! Is there a book on our truck out yet? I am going to go take the Relay from front blower motor and swap out with RO2 to test to see if this is the problem. Which according to the way I understood what you wrote, would be likely. However, realizing that I had already took a relay which I had in my towing package in the glove compartment, which appears to have exactly the same amp ratings and wiring schematic, although a slightly different manufacturing look with the same Model Number, this did not solve the problem.

One thing that I neglected to mention is that I have the FORD GOLD Alarm system with remote start system, which was installed either by my dealer or someone my dealer uses to install them. I do know that this FORD GOLD ALARM system ties into the lighting system, memory seats, starting system and door locks.

Now some things that should be noted are:

When i went to drive this to the parts store to see if I could pick up a few relays and some spare fuses, when I started the truck, I realized that the SRS Air Bag Restraint system indicator in the dash, flashed five times, twice or three times and then went solid, even when I unplugged my seat belt and plugged back in it remained solid.

So, the following isnt working...

Over Head lights when doors are open or when manually depressed do not turn on.

A and B Buttons on Memory Seats (Although you can manually move them when using the power levers.) A and B settings do not adjust when using keychain remotes to unlock doors as they are suppose to.

Computer module in dash which shows mileage, odometer, temp, compass, etc does not light at all...

Radio will not turn on.

Windows will not open or close, two stuck in open position.

Truck runs fine, all external and dash lights work including radio and all instrument back lighting works.

Auto temp control system works...

I cannot purchase these relays or 30 Amp Circuit Breaker locally in any parts stores I called so far.

Thanks for everything and for any other input that you may have!

Dave

 

RESOLVED! At least the problem, now the cause?

I cannot believe that Fuse Number 21 Cluster Keep Alive Power at 15 Amps was blown and of course was the Culprit.

I cannot believe that all of these items were tied to this fuse, which now makes me wonder if Fuse 21 should be running more than 15 Amps.

Wonder why it blew? I think maybe that it is possible that all four people in the truck around that time were trying to roll the windows up at once, and that possibly a door was open causing the overhead lighting to come on, meaning that four door motors and overhead lighting would have been burning all at once???? Just a thought.

Either way, thanks to Dons FX4 for the great information! How much is that wiring schematic and where do I get it?

Thanks again,

Dave

 

That's the 'accessory delay relay' fuse... Again, I suggest you check the ground, behind the little panel by the e-brake. It's a green ten mill bolt. When the dealership adds something, they always seem to loosen that bolt, it has all the components you had problems with grounded there. If it's the least bit loose, you pop fuses, or get gremlins in the cluster...

Chris

 

I need to go check that, because after the fuse fixed the problems, today the check engine light came on. Plugged my ODBII Code Reader in to see what the deal was and my Code Reader wouldnt even link with the computer. I had never tried this Coder Reader ( http://www.iequus.com/item.asp?cid=10&pid=3100 3100 OBD II Code Reader (1996 and newer)) on the new truck before, never had a reason too, however this truck says that it is ODBII Compatable.

What is up with that?

Anyway, I am going to go out and find this grounding bolt and make sure it is tight.... They probably messed with that when they installed the Ford Gold Alarm with Remote Start.

Thanks,

Dave

 

Does your code reader do 'CAN' euro style? Thats what these 04 Fords are. My Scangauge reads it, as does the Superchips. Not my older OBDII reader.
Normal, set a standard, then modify it. Well, that's how fast this stuff evolves.
Again, best wishes on a happy resolve;
Chris

 

I just read in the new manual on my ODBII Code Reader that I downloaded that some are using CAN. They didnt sayt much about it other than to call Tech Support. Why wouldnt they just say it isnt compatible? I hope that there is a work around on this unit so that I dont have to go buy another...

Dave

 

Hey Dave...how's about disconnecting the neg batt terminal to clear the codes. If it works, great...if the code comes back, then read it and get it fixed.

With all the electrical probs you just had, there might be a fault induced causing the CEL. Clear it out, let the 'puter re-learn your driving style, and all may be good in the end (maybe?).

BTW, the fuse you mentioned (F21) goes straight to the voltmeter in the instrument panel.

 

DonsFx4 has a good point, but I was hesitant about suggesting it. If, or when this goes to the dealer, they might want/need that code. If you pulled it up with a code reader, you could log the number. If you reset the volitol memory in the PCM, no code.
Chris