Air Bypass Valve
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2001
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Air Bypass Valve
I have a technical question. I was testing my air bypass valve. The ohms test passed. It has 10.5 ohms resistance, but I am not sure about the volt test. The book calls for 10.5 volts, and I got 11.58 volts. Can this cause a problem in the operation of the valve, or is it ok.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 1999
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Air Bypass Valve
Best I can recall thats Ok for voltage , I think it should have battery voltage or close to it . A lot of Air Bypass Valve , Idle problems are related to excess carbon in the valve itself . Clean it & see if the idle improves .
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Air Bypass Valve
Thanks for the info. I was hoping it should be close to the battery voltage. I have already cleaned the valve with no improvement. Any other suggestions would be welcome. Thanks.
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Air Bypass Valve
What is the idle doing? It is possible that the EGR is bypassing (carbon here too) and causing the idle to be erratic. When you cleaned the idle bypass valve did you try to blow through it to see if it was sealing ? I had to clean mine 3 times to get it to seal properly. You can push the plunger to open the valve and then release it to close it then blow through it to see if it is sealing, try it a few times as the carbon can sometimes be stubborn. As for the EGR I did a similar test after a code came up , the valve was fine and the sender was fine and the vacuum canister had no leaks ( a common problem) but the EVR solinoid up by the ignition coil (I have a 5.0) was at fault. A bit of grit was holding the rubber coated disk open causing the Egr to open erraticaly and the idle was goofy as a result. Hope this is of some help. SR
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Air Bypass Valve
Well I found the problem. It was the air bypass valve. It was stuck in the partial open position. I replaced the valve and the idle improved. The only problem is my thermostat went bad and caused the engine to overheat and cracked the head or blew the head gasket, so I have a little more work to do.
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