I agree whole heartedly with the oil change philosophy. Recently I went from using traditional organic oil to synthetic. If nothing else I figured if you can go twice the mileage between changes go ahead and pay double the cost per quart and not have to lay on your back on your day off as much. Time is money. Last I have never believed that an oil filter is spent after a meere 3,000 or so miles. That would be rediculous. However traditionally I have changed mine at every oil change due to the fact that I do not want or need to save a quart of spent motor oil. So, another point for synthetic oil. Twice the mileage and save on the cost of that extra filter.

Other than the physical and financial gains I have found no difference in the performance of the oil. I did hear a noise at startup on some very cold days that I have never heard before. Also I developed a valve cover leak. I must admit that I have about 130,000 on the engine so I can't honestly blame any of this on the oil.

Any other opinions out there on the use of synthetics?

 

I don't know for sure. I still use plain old Valvoline and a Wix filter and change it every 3000 miles or so. Car's got 107,000 now, and doesn't leak too much (valve cover leaks a bit, but don't want to go through the pain in changing it), so I can't complain much. Oh, a note on the Penzoil thing: I rebuilt the engine in my first car and was shocked at the gritty residue in the lifter valley. Machinist told me it was either due to Penz or Quaker State--like Fram filters, their adversisement is better than their product.

 

Which reminds me: I've heard that Kendall makes an excellent oil, but I've never seen an advertisement for it. Same goes for Wix or Baldwin filters. I wonder if some of the best products are those that aren't heavily advertised.

 

as to filters Id rather have a fram vs a jap name one on my american iron.....never a problem with them....as to the oil pressure issue...I got same issue with mine....lifter tick is from hydralic lifter bleeding down after shutdown....no biggy...easy idle on cold start and it goes away quickly....mine goes to 50-55 cold and settles down to like 25-30 under load at temp, at idle is plunges....motor is 2nd one...original parts, rebuilt 100K ago or so....mine dont lose a drop anywhere.....even after sitting 3 yrs!!!! no smoke,leaks,usage.....just keep oil in it and all will be fine....use good quality oil though....that walmart stuff isnt good for something you care about unless it smokes worse then George Burns did....

-cs65

 

cs65 -- you got anything concrete about "that walmart stuff"? I ask becuase the topic gets discussed about weekly down in the lubrication forum, and frankly, as much as I dislike walmart, no one has any proof that their oil is not good. It gets formulated by a big name, Shell I think. Passes all the standards.

Most modern oils are formulated from basic components and additives. The various big names in oil do not own their own refineries -- instead they purchase standard bases from larger companies and mix their own. MUCH of automotive oil these days is marketing. THAT's why Supertech (Wally world stuff) is so much sheaper -- they don't spend a bundle on advertizing.

I will say -- in my old 65 engine, I use Rotella Diesel 15-40 in the Summer and 10-30 in the winter. I use diesel oil cause it has more detergents and anti-wear additives. Those additives are purported to be lacking in modern gas engine oils cause they plug up the catalytics -- not a problem for me obviously. But for my 1997 van and 2000 car, I have Wally world change it for me (13.88 with filter) or do it myself every 3k. Can't beat that.

 

There is a diffrence in filters. check this site out

http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corve...lterstudy.html

The guy has way too much time on his hands, but we benifit from it.

 

Wow, did I start a mini war??

Jim

 

66beater

I loved that survey.. He is the one who changed my filter opinion.

65-f100

This isn't a war it's a debate and I think most of us love it...

keep it moving

jd

 

So did we ever answer the oil pressure question? From what I've read, I'm guessing it's the oil filter is the problem and not say a valve cover or other mechaical issue? ( I have a similar issue on cold am's. Oil pressure is high then after warm up goes to 15-20 or so down from straight up at 30 on the guage.) Great discussion! I'm changing the filter tomorrow.

 

I ran some engine flush through the thing, changed the oil and filter (Motorcraft avail at AutoZone) and saw a little bit of a change at operating temp but quite a bit of change at start up. It runs at about 30 until warm but then drops to 15 or so. I also, and maybe I shouldn't have, added Lucas Oil Treatment to it at the same time. I should have waited to see the difference with just the filter change but... oops.
I should have thought of this earlier and changed the pressure sending unit before I jumped to conclusions... Maybe tomorrow I can do that.
Thanks for the great replies!
Jim

 

I can tell your not an FE owner. 10psi is normal for a well running FE engine. FEs have lower oil pressure then most engines, but they have more flow then most as well. FEs are some of the strongest and longest lasting V8s to come out of Detroit.

Now about the oil pressure issue, get a mechinical gauge and see what the pressure really is, the stock gauges in the cab are usaually wrong and are meaningless. Replacing the oil pump will not help oil pressure, if your going to tear it down, then do a full rebuild while its apart, that will solve the oil pressure issue. Frams are bad quaitly but will not cause engine problems as some claim. Change the oil with some nice Diesel rated oil and a MC filter and then check the pressure with a mechanicial gauge. The ticking could be a number of things, its proably a bad lifter or a broken/worn rocker shaft. Pop the valve covers off and see if there is sludge buildup, also remove the Rocker shaft and examine it closeley for warpage or breakage. Just ask if you want help doing this, its very easy.

I use diesel rated oil in all my trucks. Synthectics have been proven by UOAs to have more wear metals in the oil then dino oil. Its very impotant to use a Diesel rated oil, modern gas rated oils are lacking in important additives because of the tree huggers that try to reduce engine life and make our lifes miserable. Anyway no matter what you do you wont be able to kill that FE, it will keep on ticking, smoking, and leaking but wont die.

I say check the oil pressure with a good gauge, change the oil and keep on truckin. The FE wont let you down.

 

I've got an old 360 that runs lower press. when warm, but I'm not too worried about it. My question is about the diesel oil. I've never run that before and I'm interested. Can you recommend a brand and weight?

 

wow...I looked at the oil filter link...and added it to my favorites as my Dad races and will definately like to see that info....as for fram....I gotta admit that i am a name brand shopper....car parts is the ONLY thing I will pay for a known high quality/reputation. As for my beasts'....I know my C/S has a fram on it....not sure bout my other 65 or 66...or my tired lil Ranger that like my FE just keeps on ticking....That info is VERY useful.....kinda goes to show that like some cars nowadays, some filters are carbon copies with a different can.....Anyone know anything bout the diesel engine or fuel filters ???? I would love to learn about those too.....



I wonder who makes the oem japanese filters.....


-cs65

 

Shell Rotella 30Wt.

 

There are many choices. If you got too wally world they have Delvac, Rottela, and Supertech oils, all are disel rated. The Diesel rating is CH-4. I prefer Mystick Diesel rated oil myself but it is hard to find.